Josie Acland – Modern Trekker https://moderntrekker.com The World Is Waiting Sat, 15 Dec 2018 19:11:51 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.9.9 https://moderntrekker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/cropped-Plane2-32x32.jpg Josie Acland – Modern Trekker https://moderntrekker.com 32 32 144266218 How To Survive On The Trans Mongolian Railway https://moderntrekker.com/trans-mongolian-railway/ https://moderntrekker.com/trans-mongolian-railway/#respond Thu, 27 Dec 2018 08:00:33 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=4386 Depending on your route, time schedule and goals, you could…

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Depending on your route, time schedule and goals, you could spend anything from a few hours to 7 days on the train. My longest was a 57-hour journey from Vladimir to Krasnoyarsk, followed immediately by a 17-hour journey to Irkutsk, and thankfully I was well prepared.

Here’s everything you need to know about the Trans Mongolian Railway, and what you can do to make the journey as pleasant as possible!

Choose Your Train:

Passenger Trains

Passenger trains are the basic kind, slightly cheaper but slightly older and definitely not as comfortable.

My Chinese train from Irkutsk to Ulan Bator to Beijing was one of these; the bunks were solid, the carriage was old, the toilets were dirty with no toilet roll, you couldn’t buy snacks or water and the only plugs were in the hallway and didn’t work, but it is good enough and is sometimes your only option!

Firmenny Trains

Firmenny trains are slightly more expensive, but they will be a much more pleasant experience for longer journeys.

Your carriage attendant will do a good job at keeping the toilets clean and stocked, they can offer snacks and drinks, sometimes you’ll get fed, you’ll find plugs to charge your phone by each bunk and the carriages are generally newer and well looked after.

Choose Your Class:

Trans Mongolian Railway
Your available space very much depends on the class! | Trans Mongolian Railway

First Class

First class is very expensive, but you get two single beds in a room. It’s perfect for couples with a bigger budget, or you can sometimes choose female-only compartments for women going solo.

Second Class

Second class means four bunks in a compartment and is significantly cheaper. Just remember, you can’t choose your bunkmates so you might be stuck with some weirdos, but it’s good for couples or groups, you can also sometimes choose female-only compartments.

You have a choice of the bottom bunk which doubles up as a sofa, you’ll be sharing this with your bunkmate during the day, but you have access to the table, plus storage under your bed. Top bunk is also great, room enough to sit up and a little bit of storage for your personal items.

Third Class

Third class is an open carriage with 52 bunks, like being in a big dorm room, and it’s the cheapest. Although there is no privacy, it’s also more sociable and fun to people watch, a great option for male or female solo travelers.

Third class bunks are like second class without the privacy, plus the extra “lateral” bunks running along the side of the carriage. The bottom lateral bunk turns into a table and two chairs, so you’re sharing it with your bunkmate during the day, but if there’s no one above you it’s all yours.

The top lateral bunk has to be the worst, it’s as cramped as the others (you can’t sit up in third class top bunks) but less private because you’re basically lying in the corridor, and you’re at the mercy of your bunkmate because if they want to make their bed, you’re stuck in yours.

Note for solo travelers: I’d recommend either the top or bottom bunk in second class, or the bottom lateral bunk in third class.

Seating

Trans Mongolian Railway
The seating in the Trans Mongolian is perfect for day trips. | Trans Mongolian Railway

Seating is an option on some trains, I wouldn’t choose this for an overnight journey but it’s comfy and spacious and perfect for shorter trips. The seats recline, some carriages have a toilet, and even TV’s playing old school Russian movies.

Trans Mongolian Railway Tips:

Book Tickets Online

If you wait until you get to Russia and try to book at the stations, you might struggle to find a decent bed or it could even be sold out. You can use an agent like Real Russia, but they charge a high commission. I recommend downloading the Russian Railways app, once you’ve signed up you can easily view and book tickets online.

Note: you can’t book tickets between countries online, so you’ll need to either pay an agency to do it for you, or do it at the train station when you arrive.

Always Download The Ticket

Once you’ve booked through the app make sure you download the ticket because it disappears from the app once the train departs and they might check it again before you leave the station.

Trans Mongolian Railway
Make sure you download the ticket before you leave the station. | Trans Mongolian Railway

Check Out The Route

When booking the ticket you can see the route, plus the length of each stop. Screenshot this, keep your phone on Moscow time and you can plan which stops are long enough to get off and stretch your legs, but don’t wander too far, and take your valuables with you. It’s also listed in the carriage.

Wear Comfy Clothes

You’ll spend most of the time sitting around and watching the world go by. I saw one guy spend two days on the train (including sleeping) in jeans. No thanks. Be as comfy as possible.

Bring A Change Of Clothes

After even a day, you’ll start to feel a bit grimy. Have a comfy outfit to wear during the day, and something even comfier to change into at night. Don’t forget clean underwear!

Bring A Pair Of Flipflops Or Slippers

You aren’t really allowed to walk around in bare feet, and you wouldn’t want to. I bought a pair of slippers (I forgot to pack my flipflops) for $2 and it was a very good investment!

Bring Something To Keep You Busy

Sometimes you’ll find yourself too busy socializing to get anything else done, or staring out the window at the scenery, but sometimes the train can be really boring.

Trans Mongolian Railway
To be fair, the scenery is pretty awesome… | Trans Mongolian Railway

Pack a Kindle, a journal, coloring books, download movies onto your phone, or even bring your laptop… But don’t expect any power unless you’re on a Russian Firmenny train, make sure you bring a power bank!

Bring Something To Help You Sleep

Whether it’s earplugs to block out the snoring, a sleep mask to block out the lights, or green tea and a hot water bottle, do what you gotta do.

Pack A Small Toiletries Bag

Wet wipes will be your best friend. You could also bring dry shampoo, or perfume to hide the smell of cheesy feet. Don’t forget your toothbrush, toothpaste, and deodorant!

Pack Some Food

Although there’s a restaurant car, it’s expensive and limited. You can hop off and buy food on the station platform at the longer stops, or from your carriage attendant, but it’s not a great choice.

You want food that doesn’t need refrigerating or can be cooked just with hot water. A big part of the experience is sharing food with your bunkmates, so bring a little extra!

Most people eat noodles for every meal but you can get creative. Bread, salted butter, jam, honey or spread (I brought Marmite from home), cheese slices or hard cheese, cured meat, noodles, cuppa soup, instant mash, fruit, crisps, biscuits, crackers, chocolate, the list goes on.

I would also recommend bringing some sort of container to cook and store food in, I bought a large plastic soup cup with a lid and handle and it’s been a lifesaver! Some cutlery is also essential.

Bring Some Water

Trans Mongolian Railway
Drink up! | Trans Mongolian Railway

While there is an unlimited supply of boiling water on board, there is no safe drinking water. I brought a two-liter bottle and my own one-liter bottle, you can buy small bottles from the carriage attendant or larger bottles for cheaper on the station platform whenever you stop.


Have you ridden the Trans Mongolian Railway? Share any tips you have in the comments below!

You can also follow the adventure on Facebook and Instagram!

Suggested next reading: Train Travel In Myanmar: What I Wish I’d Known

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How To Experience The Best Of St Petersburg In Just 3 Days https://moderntrekker.com/st-petersburg-travel-guide/ https://moderntrekker.com/st-petersburg-travel-guide/#respond Fri, 09 Nov 2018 08:00:52 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=4557 While Moscow is the most popular Russian city for tourists,…

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While Moscow is the most popular Russian city for tourists, most people say they prefer to visit St Petersburg, and it’s easy to see why.

Sometimes called the “Venice of the North”, you can spend your days wandering along canals lined with baroque and neoclassical palaces and exploring old churches and cathedrals. The old capital city is also home to two of the greatest art and cultural museums in the world, The State Hermitage and The State Russian museums.

You could spend weeks exploring everything this beautiful city has to offer, but there are a few highlights that shouldn’t be missed. Whether you have a month-long tourist visa, or you’re on a three-day land excursion from a cruise ship, it’s possible to see everything on this list, just make sure you pack good walking shoes!

So without further ado, here’s your St Petersburg travel guide:

St Petersburg, Russia


The historic center of St Petersburg is the first place you’ll want to explore. Everything is within walking distance, but public transport is cheap and easy to use with Google Maps if your feet get tired.

It’s possible to see each of these in a day, but you’ll want extra time to actually visit the museums.

The State Russian Museum

Only a 10-minute walk from the main street of Nevsky Prospect, this is as good a place as any to start your walking tour. It has the largest collection of Russian fine art in St Petersburg and is one of the largest museums in the country. You can easily spend half a day visiting the Mikhailovsky Palace, with other exhibitions held at the Marble Palace, the Mikhailovsky Castle and the Stroganov Palace.

A same-day ticket to two exhibitions will cost 600R ($9), or a three-day ticket to all four will cost 850R ($13).

The State Russian Museum
The State Russian Museum | St Petersburg travel guide

The Church of our Saviour on the Spilled Blood

Located just behind the State Russian Museum, this will be your first taste of an onion-domed Russian Orthodox cathedral and it will not disappoint. It’s so similar to St Basil’s in Moscow with its multicolored domes and turrets, just not quite as busy!

Tickets to go inside cost 250R ($4) and it’s well worth it to see the interior decorated with a kaleidoscope of colorful mosaics.

The Church of our Saviour on the Spilled Blood
The Church of our Saviour on the Spilled Blood | St Petersburg travel guide

The Summer Garden

Head through Mikhailovsky garden, across the Moika river and take a walk along the leafy green paths of St Peterburg’s oldest garden, the Summer Garden, where you’ll find marble statues, fountains and the modest Summer Palace of Peter the Great tucked away at the back.

It’s a great place to escape the city streets for a while, entrance to the garden is free, while the palace is currently closed for refurbishment.

The Summer Garden
The Summer Garden | St Petersburg travel guide

Cruiser Aurora

Walk through the barren Field of Mars and cross the massive Neva river for a detour to this 1900’s Russian cruiser that played a small part in the communist revolution by firing a blank round from the forward gun as a signal to start the assault on the Winter Palace.

It now houses one of the largest maritime museums in the world with a huge collection of model ships, tickets cost 600R ($9).

Cruiser Aurora
Cruiser Aurora | St Petersburg travel guide

Peter and Paul Fortress

Founded in 1703 by Peter the Great, the Peter and Paul Fortress was the original citadel of St Petersburg, set on an island on the banks of the Neva river.

Entrance to the grounds is free, if you want to go inside the golden Peter and Paul Cathedral tickets cost 450R ($6). You can also buy tickets to visit the bastion and its grim prison cells, or to climb to the top of the fortress walls for stunning panorama views.

Peter and Paul Fortress
Peter and Paul Fortress | St Petersburg travel guide

The Strelka

At the tip of Vasilyevsky Island, as you cross the Neva river again, is where you’ll find the banks of The Strelka, with great views of Peter and Paul Fortress to the left and The Hermitage to the right, flanked by two Rostral Columns, iconic St Petersburg landmarks.

The Strelka
The Strelka | St Petersburg travel guide

St Isaac’s Cathedral

Walk along the river past the Admiralty and a statue of Peter the Great and you’ll see the golden dome of this stunning cathedral that dominates St Petersburg’s skyline.

You can buy tickets to visit the museum inside (250R, $4) or to climb the 262 steps to the collonade (150R, £3) rewarding you with incredible panoramic views of the city.

St Isaac's Cathedral
St Isaac’s Cathedral | St Petersburg travel guide

The State Hermitage Museum

Follow the road past the southern face of the Admiralty and you can’t miss the baby blue Winter Palace.

If you want to explore this vast museum housing over three million items displayed throughout five buildings (the Winter Palace, the Small Hermitage, the Old Hermitage, the New Hermitage and the Hermitage Theatre), you’ll need at least a full day, more if you have the time, a combined ticket costs 700R ($11).

You can also visit part of the Hermitage Storage Facility and the other branches; the east wing of the General Staff Building, the Winter Palace of Peter I, the Menshikov Palace and the Imperial Porcelain factory.

If like me you want a quick tour of the stunning Winter Palace then you can give yourself a few hours to admire the architecture, the chandeliers and of course the artwork and historic pieces on display. They offer free entry on the first Thursday of every month, but the queue was a mile long even an hour before it opened, so good luck with that.

The best time to visit is on a Wednesday or Thursday evening when it’s open until 9pm and most of the tour groups have left.

The State Hermitage Museum
The State Hermitage Museum | St Petersburg travel guide
The State Hermitage Museum
The State Hermitage Museum | St Petersburg travel guide

Kazan Cathedral

Outside the Hermitage lies the Palace Square which connects back to the main shopping street of Nevsky Prospekt with one last sight to see. From the outside the 111m long collonade of this cathedral makes it look more like a government building, but once you step inside it’s all dark and gothic traditional Orthodox architecture.

You’ll often see a long line of people waiting to kiss the icon of Our Lady of Kazan.

Kazan Cathedral
Kazan Cathedral | St Petersburg travel guide

While most of St Petersburg’s sights are in the historic heart of the city, there are a few just outside that are worth tackling public transport or paying for a taxi to visit.

Nikolsky Cathedral

This baby blue cathedral of the patron saint of sailors is one of the most picturesque in the city with its golden domes, finely carved wooden iconostasis and bell tower overlooking Griboyedov Canal.

Nikolsky Cathedral
Nikolsky Cathedral | St Petersburg travel guide

Trinity Cathedral

I thought I had seen most of the cathedrals that this city had to offer, but when I climbed to the collonade of St Isaac’s I could see the towering blue domes covered in gold stars far away in the distance, so I made my way there the next morning. In 2006 it was destroyed by a fire, but has now been restored to its former glory.

Trinity Cathedral
Trinity Cathedral | St Petersburg travel guide

Smolny Cathedral

This sky blue cathedral is the beautiful centerpiece of Smolny Convent, built in the 1700’s. Its plain white interior makes a nice change from the usual colorful mosaics, and you’ll find a large collection of golden icons. The highlight is a climb to the top of the bell tower (150R, $3), the views are stunning!

Smolny Cathedral
Smolny Cathedral | St Petersburg travel guide

Once you’ve gotten the hang of public transport in St Petersburg, it’s definitely worth heading farther out to see two of the grandest sights this city has to offer.

Peterhof

The Grand Palace of Peterhof is an imposing yellow building that dominates the hill above the Gulf of Finland, but that’s not why people visit, they come for the magnificent grounds.

The Upper Park is free to enter, but it’s worth buying a ticket for the Lower Park (900R, $14) so you can enjoy the stunning collection of golden fountains, tree-lined canals and acres of parkland. You can also take the hydrofoil for 800R ($12) one way which is a nice way to see the Neva River.

Peterhof
Peterhof | St Petersburg travel guide

Naval Cathedral of St Nicolas

On the island of Kotlin stands the navel fortress of Kronshtadt, and it’s here that you will find the stunning white and gold Naval Cathedral. The interior is just as impressive, and although it’s far from the city it’s worth a visit on your way back from Peterhof.

Naval Cathedral of St Nicolas
Naval Cathedral of St Nicolas | St Petersburg travel guide

This is everything I managed to visit with just three days and a lot of walking.

On my first day, I covered everything in the historic heart of the city. On my second day, I visited the things farther away, and went back to a few of my favorite locations in the center to get better photos. On my last day, I visited The Hermitage and Peterhof, stopping at the Naval Cathedral on the way back.

Public transport is very easy to use, you can rely on Google Maps to get you anywhere you need to go, whether it’s on the metro or the buses. You can pick up a local prepaid SIM card from мтс (MTS) with unlimited internet for only 600R ($9).

There are also many options for food, shopping and accommodation throughout the city, head to the main street of Nevsky Prospekt to find the best of everything!

Suggested next reading: Your Perfect Little Travel Guide To Moscow, Russia

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Your Perfect Little Travel Guide To Moscow, Russia https://moderntrekker.com/travel-guide-to-moscow/ https://moderntrekker.com/travel-guide-to-moscow/#respond Tue, 06 Nov 2018 08:00:02 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=4487 When you think of Russia, what’s the first thing that…

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When you think of Russia, what’s the first thing that comes to mind? Ok, it’s probably either vodka or snow… But I’m sure most of you have heard of the Moscow Kremlin and the most famous onion-domed cathedral of them all, St Basil’s. Any travel guide to Moscow would be incomplete without them.

I spent three days in Moscow and while it’s not as compact and easy to navigate as St Petersburg, it’s still an essential stop on your visit to Russia.

If you’re pushed for time you can see the highlights in a day, but I’d recommend spending at least three days here to make the most of it! Here’s my little travel guide to Moscow based on my own experience.

Where I Stayed

I stayed at the perfectly located Nereus Hostel, so I was only a 10-minute walk from the Moscow Kremlin.

Travel Guide To Moscow

Kremlin Tips

I recommend getting up early and being at the gates when they open at 9am so you can avoid the busiest part of the morning, it fills up with coach loads of tourists by 11am.

Tickets for the Kremlin and its Cathedral Square cost 500R ($7), you can pay an extra 250R ($4) to climb the Ivan the Great Bell Tower (definitely recommend this), and tickets to the Armoury cost an extra 500R.

As you enter the main gate you have the modern Kremlin State Palace to your right and as you pass through an archway of the Church of the Twelve Apostles you’ll find yourself in Cathedral Square, surrounded by white marble and golden domes.

You can climb to the top of the Ivan the Great Bell Tower and you can go inside the Cathedral of the Archangel, the Cathedral of the Annunciation, the massive Assumption Cathedral and the tiny Church of the Deposition of the Virgin’s Robe. You’re not allowed to take photos inside any of them, but I didn’t realize this and managed to get one before I got told off!

Ivan the Great Bell Tower
Ivan the Great Bell Tower
Dormition Cathedral, Moscow
The Assumption Cathedral

Cathedrals & Other Noteworthy Sites

If you leave the Kremlin by the east gate you’ll find yourself in the south corner of the Red Square, opposite the magnificent St Basil’s Cathedral. Seeing such a famous landmark in person is pretty amazing! You can pay to go inside, it costs 700R ($10, half price for students) and I expected a big open cathedral like the rest of them, but I was pleasantly surprised with many small rooms, winding corridors and dark decor.

St Basil's Cathedral Travel Guide To Moscow Travel Guide To Moscow

The grand building running along the southeast side of the square is GUM, a massive department store for the wealthy, you’ll find brands like Prada, Louis Vuitton and Burberry. To the northwest of the square is the dark red State Historical Museum which costs 400R ($6) to enter, it houses a nice collection but after a visit to the magnificent Hermitage Museum, I found it quite boring.

Another must-do in my travel guide to Moscow, for me at least (I loved the architecture too much to be sick of it), was visiting the absolutely stunning Cathedral of Christ the Saviour. It stands on the banks of the Moskva River, you can climb to the collonade for 400R ($6, half price for students) which rewards you with wonderful panoramic views of the city and the interior is gorgeous, I think it’s the most beautiful cathedral I visited in Russia.

Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
The Cathedral of Christ the Saviour

From here you can cross the bridge and follow the river south, past the giant statue of Peter the Great, to Gorky Park—it’s a really nice place to be on a sunny day.

Further along the river is the much quieter Swallow Hills park, with a soon-to-be cable car that will take you up to the dramatic Moscow State University, one of seven similar skyscrapers throughout the city, and the view from here is wonderful.

As you take a bus back to the city, you can stop at Arbat Street, one of the main shopping sections of Moscow.

Outside The City

Kolomenskoye
Kolomenskoye Estate
Kolomenskoye
Kolomenskoye Estate

If you’re sick of the city and want to get out of it for a while, head south to the massive Kolomenskoye Open Air Museum where you can stroll through endless gardens and visit the Alexei Mikhailovich Palace, the Church of the Ascension and the Church of Our Lady of Kazan. Sit on the hill overlooking the suburbs and watch the sunset with a cold beer.

Guided Tours

The last thing I can really recommend in this travel guide to Moscow is a metro tour. Certain stations are more like tiny palaces, churches or art museums.

You can join a guided tour for around $10 but they go at the busiest times. It’s much better to go by yourself either very (very) early in the morning, between 11am and 2pm or last thing at night, when a single metro ticket only costs 55R (85¢)!

Most of the prettiest metro stations are conveniently located on the Circle Line: the stained windows of Novoslobodskaya, the regal Park Kultury and the colorful frescoes of Kiyevskaya. Some exceptions are the art deco Mayakovskaya (dark green line), the golden Aviamotornaya (yellow line) and the futuristic Elektrozavodskaya (dark blue line).

Park Kultury
Park Kultury
Aviamotornaya
Aviamotornaya
Elektrozavodskaya
Elektrozavodskaya

You can pick up a Troika card for your stay or buy individual tickets for each journey, and you can plan your route using either Google Maps or the Yandex.Metro app.


So that was my little travel guide to Moscow! Know of any other tips you’d like to share based on your own experience? Let us know in the comments below and we may even add it to this article!

Suggested next reading: 6 Best Places In The World To See The Northern Lights

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5 Incredible Reasons Why Jaipur Is Worthy Of Your Bucketlist https://moderntrekker.com/jaipur/ https://moderntrekker.com/jaipur/#respond Sat, 18 Aug 2018 07:00:49 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=3379 Also known as “The Pink City”, Jaipur is one of…

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Also known as “The Pink City”, Jaipur is one of the largest cities in Northern India. Once you arrive and start exploring you’ll realize it’s more of a “Terracotta City”, but it’s no less beautiful because of this. There are some great options for accommodation, from budget backpackers to the luxurious Fairmont Jaipur, which will make you feel like a princess, especially if you visit for the MTV Music Summit festival like we did.
Once you’re in the city center it’s easy to navigate by foot. There are endless streets of bustling markets selling traditional clothes, shiny jewelry, and delicious street food. There is a lot to see in this city and the cost can add up if you want to visit everything so choose carefully.
Also, the internet will tell you that certain attractions are either free or very cheap, but in reality, you have to pay much higher fees. I’m not sure how legit it is, but there’s no avoiding it. You can apparently get a Composite Ticket for 400R (£4.50 / $5.70) which would be well worth it, but I think they charge much, much more than that in real life. So, here are 5 great reasons why you should visit Jaipur, as well as what you can actually expect to pay to see each place, as well as a few other tips here and there!

1. City Palace

City Palace, Jaipur
The City Palace is so picturesque! Photographer: Jean-Pierre Dalbéra

Right in the center of the Old City, this gorgeous pink palace is fun to explore. The entrance fee is supposedly 150R (£1.70/ $2.15) plus 50R (55p / 70¢) for a camera, but they tried to charge us 500R (£5.60).

2. Hawa Mahal

Hawa Mahal, Jaipur

This is definitely Jaipur’s most distinctive landmark. The website says the entrance fee is 50R (55p / 70¢) but we were made to pay 200R (£2.25 / $2.85), it’s still not expensive but it adds up when it happens at every attraction. It was fun to explore inside and you get a nice view from the top, but the iconic wall of windows is actually easily visible, for free, at the rooftop bars across the road.

3. Jal Mahal

Jal Mahal, Jaipur

This dreamlike palace floats on the calm waters of Man Sagar. Take a relaxing stroll along Amer Road to view it for free, as entrance to the palace has been restricted after being declared a protected area by the government, but the pathway outside is still accessible and free to all.

4. Amber Palace and Fort

Amber Fort Entrance, Jaipur
Amber Fort’s entrance. Photographer: Firoze Edassery
Amber Palace, Jaipur
Amber Palace

This dramatic sandstone fort perched on a hilltop to the north of the city is a great day trip from Jaipur. Take a tuk-tuk or the local bus to the shores of Moatha Lake and climb the hill to the gateway. There’s a lot you can see without paying the 550R (£6.20 / $7.80) entrance fee, but if you want to get inside and see the impressive carvings and paintings of the interior walls and ceilings, you’ll need to pay.

5. Galtaji

A huge festival going on hidden in the hills of Jaipur
A huge festival going on hidden in the hills of Jaipur

This ancient Hindu pilgrimage was definitely the highlight of Jaipur for me. What started as a quick climb up Monkey Hill to watch the sunset at the Sun Temple ended up with us finding the hidden temple complex of Galtaji in the throes of an incredibly vibrant and busy festival. Even without the festival, it would be an impressive sight.

There were thousands of people, fireworks going off on the hill, music and dance everywhere, food and drink being sold, it was an infectious atmosphere and I’m so glad we decided to follow the crowds, even though we were nervous about being there and making our way back to the hostel at night.

Suggested next reading: 5 Must-See Places In Agra That Have Astonishing Architecture

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5 Must-See Places In Agra That Have Astonishing Architecture https://moderntrekker.com/agra/ https://moderntrekker.com/agra/#respond Tue, 07 Aug 2018 07:00:26 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=3377 Agra is home to the world-famous Taj Mahal and a…

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Agra is home to the world-famous Taj Mahal and a trip to India wouldn’t be complete without admiring its perfect symmetry, shining marble walls, and impossible crowds. You can easily take a taxi, bus or train to Agra from the capital city, Delhi, and there are plenty of choices for accommodation and food. There are some pricier hotels and restaurants with views of the Taj, or you can choose one of the hostels on Taj East Gate Road, a short walk from the entrance gate and some great cafés.

Getting around Agra isn’t anywhere as easy as Delhi and there’s a lot to see here so it’s recommended to hire a tuk-tuk and driver for the day. We paid 800R (£9 / $11.40) which got us from our hostel all the way to Akbar’s Mausoleum and back through winding streets to visit the main sights, listed below. You’ll need at least two days to explore, but spend more time if you can!

1. The Taj Mahal

Taj Mahal, Agra

Without a doubt one of the most famous and beautiful buildings in the world, this mausoleum is a monument to lost love, built by Shah Jahan as a memorial for his third wife, Mumtaz Mahal. Pictures don’t do it justice, it has to be seen to be believed. The intricate detail of the marble and precious stones, the scale and symmetry of it is incredible.

Entrance is 1000R (£11.25 / $14.25). You’ll want to be up well before sunrise to get your ticket and be ready to queue for a while, even at that time. Lonely Planet has some great information on which gate to use. Once inside, you’ll be able to roam around but be prepared to push and shove your way to get to the best photo spots, like the Princess Diana bench (that’s not it in the photo above, the queue for it was bonkers even just after sunrise).

Taj Mahal, Agra
The view from the Princess Diana Bench.

2. Agra Fort

Red Fort, Agra

For the entry price of 550R (£6.20 / $7.80) this is one of the finest Mughal forts in India, but we didn’t want to spend the money to go inside. If you’ve already seen the Delhi Red Fort then this one is similar, and you can just admire the impressive red sandstone walls from outside the fort, as we suggested doing in our Delhi article.

3. Akbar’s Mausoleum

Akbar's Tomb, Agra

Even if you’ve already seen the Taj, this grand red sandstone and marble tomb shouldn’t be missed. The small entrance fee of 210R (£2.35 / $3.00) is well worth it, the impressive gardens are a relaxing place to get away from the busy city streets, and the interior is beautifully decorated.

4. Itimad-Ud-Daulah

Baby Taj, Agra

Known as The Baby Taj, this gorgeous tomb shouldn’t be missed either. With another 210R (£2.35 / $3.00) entrance fee, it won’t break the bank. Being built entirely by marble makes the finely carved lattice even more impressive, and it’s another peaceful spot with its wonderful gardens along the east bank of the Yamuna River.

5. Mehtab Bagh

Mehtab Bagh, Agra Mehtab Bagh, Agra

This park across the river from the Taj Mahal was built to stop the sands blowing across and slowly eroding the marble. The views are incredible and it gives you a great panorama of the Taj in all its glory. They say it changes colors multiple times during the day, and if you time it right you can watch it glowing red in the setting sun. There’s a 200R (£2.25 / $2.85) entrance fee but it really is worth it.

Suggested next reading: 8 Amazing Places In Delhi That Have Beautiful Architecture & Bewitching History

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8 Amazing Places In Delhi That Have Beautiful Architecture & Bewitching History https://moderntrekker.com/delhi/ https://moderntrekker.com/delhi/#respond Mon, 16 Jul 2018 07:00:27 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=3376 Delhi is the capital city of India, and one of…

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Delhi is the capital city of India, and one of the busiest cities in the world. However, it wasn’t as bad as I expected. I was told by almost every traveler I met to avoid it like the plague, but I ended up loving it! Plus the public transport system is incredibly modern and reliable, with trains taking you all over the city and women-only carriages which make it safer to travel alone, even at night. You can buy tokens at the station, or save time and buy a Delhi Metro Smartcard.

Depending on your budget, there are hundreds of options for accommodation, food and shopping. If you want a bit of westernized luxury then head to Connaught Place. If you’re on a tight budget then head to the grimy but vibrant backpacker streets of the Main Bazar. If you want tranquil parks and quieter streets then head to the southern suburbs of Hauz Khas or Sat Bari. Wherever you end up, you’ll get a taste of “real India”.

There is so much to see in this crazy city that even the two weeks I spent there wasn’t enough. You can end up spending a lot of money if you choose to do and see everything, so if you are on a budget then choose carefully. But what makes Delhi shine, most importantly, are all the attractions that promise beautiful architecture and history. Here’s a list of 8 must-see attractions that ooze history and showcase some of that beautiful architecture, as well as what you can expect to pay for each one.

1. Qutub Minar Complex

Qutub Minar Complex, Delhi

The Qutub Minar Complex, a collection of monuments from the Delhi Sultanate (1206–1526), sometimes beats the Taj Mahal in being India’s most visited attraction throughout the year. Lonely Planet says “If you only have time to visit just one of Delhi’s ancient ruins, make it this”.  Entrance is 500R (£5.60 / $7.10) but you can easily spend a few hours here wandering through the peaceful monuments and admiring the 73m high tower of Qutub Minar. To get here, take the Yellow Line to Qutub Minar station and follow the main road north past Mehrauli Archaeological Park.

2. Jama Masjid

Delhi Jama Masjid, India

India’s largest mosque is absolutely worth a visit. It’s free to enter but you have to pay a “camera fee” of 300R (£3.40 / $4.30), and there’s an extra cost of 100R (£1.15 / $1.40) to climb one of the 40m-high towers, giving you unbeatable views over the Red Fort and the surrounding city. This is right next to the Jama Masjid Station on the Violet Line.

3. Akshardham Temple

Akshardham Temple
Photographer: Kapil.xerox

Opened in 2005, what it lacks in history it certainly makes up for in its wonderful architecture. I tried to get here and failed miserably because it just happened to be the same day as a religious festival and there were literally thousands of people queuing to get in. It’s definitely worth visiting if you get it on a quieter day as the magnificent temple has an Indian fairytale vibe about it! Yet again, the entrance fee is 500R (£5.60 / $7.10) but I think it would be worth it. To get here, take the Blue Line to Akshardham Station.

4. Humayun’s Tomb

Delhi Humayan's Tomb, India

If Delhi is your first stop in India then you will be as impressed as I was by the glorious architecture of Humayun’s Tomb, said to be the inspiration for the Taj Mahal. It’s another 500R (£5.60 / $7.10) entrance fee but it’s worth it, especially if you arrive later in the day, the sunset makes this red tomb glow. To get here it’s a short walk from Jangpura Station on the Violet Line.

5. Mehrauli Archaeological Park

Mehrauli's Architecture
The architecture in Mehrauli Archaeological Park is something to behold.

This massive 200-acre archaeological area is one of the top attractions in Delhi. You can easily spend an entire day here wandering around the forest dotted with over 440 monuments. The best part? There’s no entrance fee! To get here, take the Yellow Line to Qutub Minar station and follow the main road north.

6. Rajpath

India Gate, Delhi
India Gate. Photographer: Larry Johnson

This vast pathway links India Gate to the grand offices of the Indian Government. It’s packed with tourists and locals selling snacks, ice cream and even a few tattooists inking people on the street. It’s got a great vibe, especially in the evening when it’s cooler and the sun is setting. It’s a free area to explore, just hop on the Violet or Yellow Line to Central Secretariat Station.

7. Lodi Gardens

Delhi Lodi Gardens, India

One of my favorite areas of Delhi, this peaceful park is a wonderful getaway from the craziness of the city. Take a gentle stroll through forests and gardens, around lakes and tombs. It’s another free experience, to get here take the Yellow Line to Jorbagh Station.

I’ve only listed a tiny portion of things to see and do in Delhi, and I can’t wait to go back to this hectic city and see more of it. I was so nervous when I first arrived that I spent the first few days hiding in my hostel, eating all the parantha and making the most of the high-speed Wifi! Once you get out and about, you’ll realize how easy it is to navigate and how fun it is to explore.

8. The Red Fort

Delhi Red Fort, India

Entrance is 500R (£5.60 / $7.10) and you’ll pay extra for audio or guided tours. Personally, I didn’t think it was worth it. The walls are the most impressive part and you can see them from outside. The inside is just open grass and a few buildings that don’t seem too impressive after seeing some of the other stuff Delhi has to offer. However, many others love this UNESCO World Heritage Site, so much so that it now appears on India’s new 500R note. It was also the main residence of the emperors of the Mughal dynasty for nearly 200 years, meaning it is an essential stop for any history buff. To get here, take the Violet Line to Jama Masjid Station.

Suggested next reading: 2 Mind Blowing & Life Changing Weeks In Rajasthan

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8 Hikes In Cornwall, England You Must Do Before You Die https://moderntrekker.com/hikes-in-cornwall/ https://moderntrekker.com/hikes-in-cornwall/#comments Tue, 05 Jun 2018 07:00:29 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=2318 Cornwall, England’s most south-westerly county, has arguably the best coastline…

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Cornwall, England’s most south-westerly county, has arguably the best coastline and a ton of history and ancient culture. Here you’ll find the magic and mystery of King Arthur, the stunning filming locations of Poldark, and more beaches than you’ll know what to do with. Time to pack your hiking boots and get down to Cornwall to see it for yourself!

Tintagel Village and Tintagel Castle

Along the dramatic north coast of Cornwall is where you’ll find myth, magic and the ruins of an ancient castle, supposedly belonging to King Arthur himself. Park your car in one of Tintagel Village’s many carparks (only £3 for the day) and leave the crowds behind as you walk south through rolling green fields dotted with colorful Cornish wildflowers. Once you reach Lanterdan Pinnacle, turn back and head north along the cliffs, above turquoise water and crumbling slate quarries, to The Island and the ruins of Tintagel Castle. Adults will pay £9.50 to get into this ancient English Heritage site but it’s worth it for the views alone.

Tintagel, Cornwall Tintagel, Cornwall

Chapel Porth and Wheal Coates

Have you seen the hit TV show Poldark starring the gorgeous Aiden Turner as Ross Poldark? If you have then you’ll probably recognize the old tin mine at Wheal Coats, along with many other locations around Cornwall. Start this walk from the tiny seaside town of Porthtowan and climb to the top of the cliffs for jaw-dropping views. Follow the coast path to the tiny Chapel Porth beach, where you can pick up a delicious sandwich or a cup of tea at the little Beach Cafe. Climb the cliffs on the other side to the ruins of Wheal Coates tin mine, where the impressive Engine House still towers above the crashing waves below.

Chapel Porth and Wheal Coates, Cornwall

Porthcurno and The Minack Theatre

You’ve probably heard of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre, but have you ever heard of Cornwall’s Minack Theatre? It certainly trumps the former for location and beauty, built by Rowena Cade out of stone and perched on the edge of the cliffs high above the golden sand and turquoise waters of Porthcurno Beach. You can park your car in the little village of Porthcurno and make your way to the beach, then climb up towards the theatre and follow the coast past dramatic rock formations and hand-carved caves and tunnels. If you time it right, you might even be able to catch a late show at the theatre as the sun sets behind you, otherwise, it’s only £5 to explore this (wo)man-made wonder.

Porthcurno and the Minack, Cornwall Porthcurno and the Minack, Cornwall

Mount’s Bay and Prussia Cove

While the north coast of Cornwall has high, rugged cliffs and some formidable weather, the south coast tends to have golden, sandy beaches and a much calmer atmosphere, but it’s no less beautiful. Park your car in the free carpark at Trenalls and take a gentle stroll through fields of green, with an ocean view to your left. When you reach the tiny village of Perranuthnoe you can stop for a picnic on the gorgeous Perranuthnoe Beach. Better yet, follow the cliffs a little further around and you’ll be rewarded with a dramatic view of St Michael’s Mount, a castle that sits atop a hilly island out to sea, only accessible via boat at high tide, or a secret footpath uncovered at low tide. Take the coast path back to your car and you’ll find impossibly beautiful beaches, turquoise water and a tiny collection of houses at Prussia Cove that are steeped in the smuggling history of the Carter family.

Prussia Cove and Mount's Bay, Cornwall Prussia Cove and Mount's Bay, Cornwall

The Helford Estuary

There’s nothing that beats a dramatic walk along Cornwall’s coastline, but sometimes it’s nice to take a gentle stroll through the woods and along the river. My favorite place for this is the peaceful but gorgeous Helford Estuary. On the north side, you’ll find the colorful gardens of Trebah and Glendurgan, while on the south side you’ll be charmed by the tiny villages of St Anthony and Helford, wowed by the views along Frenchmans Creek and Dennis Head, and find peace in the forests and fields surrounding it all.

Helford Estuary, Cornwall Helford Estuary, Cornwall

Sennen Cove and Land’s End

If you’re not sick of beautiful beaches and turquoise waves then head to the golden arches of Sennen Cove and Gwynver Beach. There’s a free car park in St Just and it’s a dramatic cliff walk to the beaches, just watch your step around all the old mine shafts! Once you hit the beaches you’ll get a good show from the surfers, or you can even rent your own board from Smart Surf School. Have a nice stroll through the village of Sennen and up onto the cliffs above where you’ll be able to spot the rusty shipwreck of the RMS Mulheim, and eventually you’ll reach Land’s End, mainland Britain’s most south-westerly point.

Sennen Cove and Land's End, Cornwall Sennen Cove and Land's End, Cornwall

Kynance Cove and Lizard Point

The Lizard Peninsula has some of the most stunning coastlines in all of Cornwall, and nothing beats Kynance Cove. The stark contrast between the white sand and the red serpentine rock, the blue waves and the colorful Cornish wildflowers make this location one of the most photographed in Cornwall. The beach is a great place to relax in the sun, and at low tide, you can explore the islands and caves that surround it. It’s an easy but stunning walk along the windswept cliffs to Lizard Point, mainland Britain’s most southerly point.

Kynance and The Lizard, Cornwall Kynance and The Lizard, Cornwall

Helston to Porthleven via Loe Bar

Helston is an old town with colorful history, including the famous Flurry Dance where the locals dress up in white and dance through the town. Park your car near the Boating Lake and it’s an easy forest walk to Loe Bar. This place used to be the mouth of the River Cober but the sandbar cut it off in the 13th Century. It’s a dangerous place to swim thanks to the powerful waves, a steep slippery shingle bank and vicious currents, so don’t even think about it! Instead, make your way to the beautiful coastal town of Porthleven where you’ll find a well-protected harbor surrounded by incredible restaurants. End your day with an ice cream from Nauti But Ice and a pint at one of the waterside pubs.

Helston to Porthleven via Loe Bar, Cornwall Helston to Porthleven via Loe Bar, Cornwall

For more from Josie Acland click here.

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2 Mind Blowing & Life Changing Weeks In Rajasthan https://moderntrekker.com/2-weeks-in-rajasthan/ https://moderntrekker.com/2-weeks-in-rajasthan/#respond Tue, 03 Apr 2018 15:45:10 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=1261 Rajasthan is the largest state in India and it’s incredibly…

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Rajasthan is the largest state in India and it’s incredibly diverse. You can ride camels in the desert, visit temples galore and eat some of the best food in India. If you’re on a tight schedule it’s possible to see the highlights in two weeks, but spend more time there if you can! Here are a few of the highlights, as seen on our whirlwind tour through Rajasthan.

Jaipur – The Pink City

After spending two nights in Agra, we hopped on the 11pm night bus and arrived 6 hours later tired, confused and not at all in the mood for the con-artists that are the tuk-tuk drivers in this city. We eventually found a man willing to take us the 2km to our hostel without ripping us off too much more than usual.

We stayed at The Mellow for two nights, just outside of the city center, and it’s one of the nicest places we stayed in the whole country! The staff was so kind, they do good food in the rooftop cafe and the rooms were big, clean and air-conditioned, with en-suite bathrooms and lockers for valuables.

We spent a day walking around the “Pink City” and realized pretty quickly that it’s more like the “Terracotta City”. All the attractions are very expensive to get into, so we decided to be stubborn and only pay to get into one, the Hawa Mahal, which was a rip off because it’s more impressive from the street outside.

You can do an easy walking (or shopping) tour around the main sights of the city, and it’s not too pricey to take a tuk-tuk out to the Jah Mahal and the Amber Fort. The highlight for us was a sunset visit to the Monkey Palace, and after following a crowd of people we found a huge festival at a temple complex hidden in the hills.

A huge festival going on hidden in the hills of Jaipur
A huge festival going on hidden in the hills of Jaipur

Bundi – The (Mini) Blue City

From Jaipur we took the 6 pm bus, getting us (almost) to Bundi at 10:30pm. We were just dropped at the side of the road and luckily there was one tuk-tuk driver willing to take us the 2km into the city center. If you’re alone someone will probably take you on their motorbike for a cheaper price, just be careful.

We stayed at The Raj Mahal Guesthouse for two nights and had a lovely time. It’s a beautiful building with incredible rooftop views, balconies, and bathrooms in the spacious rooms and delicious home-cooked meals. There are a ton of good rooftop restaurants nearby that’ll give you perfect views of the fort, but most are caged because of the monkeys!

There’s not much to do here except getting lost in the winding streets lined with blue buildings, it’s a much more beautiful and peaceful alternative to Jodhpur (which we avoided after hearing so many horror stories of women being groped). You can see the peaceful Sukh Mahal or the Taragarh Fort for a hefty price; it’s apparently lovely inside. Walk up the hill to Mordi Ki Chatri for the best free view of this colorful city.

Bundi, Mordi Ki Chatri

The highlights of Bundi for us was being randomly dragged into an Indian wedding where we ate delicious, free food with the locals and took a million selfies, it was a cool experience! Then we found a puppy. A tiny little thing, furless from mange, weak from malnutrition, on the brink of death. So we decided to take her! We found a box and some rags, took her to the local vet and then onto the bus to make our way to TOLFA, the animal hospital in Ajmer.

Pushkar – The Camel Fair

Pushkar, India
Pushkar, India

It’s been over four months since I was here, but I’m still not over what happened. As soon as we arrived in Pushkar I ignored my instinct to get to the hostel first and instead battled our way through hordes of people trying to find medicine for the puppy. Within a minute of finding a pharmacy my bag had been stolen and I lost everything valuable and important to me, including almost all of my photos from this trip. It was absolutely heartbreaking and I was so close to giving up and going home, but I’m glad I didn’t.

Pushkar would be a great place to visit at any other time of the year. You have some amazing hostels and restaurants to choose from, the shopping was amazing, and with all the lakes and rolling hills around you, it’s a beautiful place to relax. If you’re determined to visit during the world famous Camel Fair then be prepared to be hassled, ripped off, groped, maybe even robbed, and book your accommodation well in advance, the only place with room for us was the awful Bonfire Hostel, avoid this place like the plague.

Bikaner – The Rat Temple

If you’ve ever seen the British travel comedy show, An Idiot Abroad, you may have seen the episode where Karl Pilkington is forced to visit a rat temple in India. This is one of my favorite travel shows and I had to follow in his footsteps. It’s a two-day detour minimum, but it’s worth it if you’re into tight spaces full of humans, rats and a smell like the butt of Satan.

Rat Temple in Rajasthan

Bikaner itself is a pretty dismal place. We stayed at the Hostel Arya Niwas which was nice enough, very basic but with a cute little courtyard to relax in and you can get food here, which is good because there wasn’t a single restaurant around. Literally nowhere to buy food which is very strange in India, but there was a bottle shop. Priorities.

The whole point of going to this weird, empty city is to visit the weird, busy temple. We took a local bus from Bikaner to Deshnok, the actual location of the Karni Mata Temple. It must have been the busiest day of the year because there were about 10,000 people queued up to enter, but we got to use our white privilege to get in through a side door. It was an intense experience. Imagine being trapped inside a trash compacter except, instead of trash, it’s rats and rat poop and bits of food and humans that are pushing you along the narrow corridors and there are rats E V E R Y W H E R E and bowls of sour milk with rats in and did I mention the poop!? Anyway…

Jaisalmer – A Desert Safari

The Fort at Jaisalmer

This city inside a fortress is definitely one of my favorite places in India. We arrived at night after taking a local day bus from Bikaner to the main city of Jaisalmer and rode a tuk-tuk into the fort itself, where you’ll find restaurants, shops, and hostels galore. The gorgeous sandstone buildings and narrow, winding streets make you feel like you’ve gone back in time and it makes a nice change from the chaos of the bigger cities.

Most guesthouses will offer some sort of “Desert Camel Safari”. There are hundreds to choose from, they all sort of offer the same thing but you can tailor it to your needs and some are pricier than others. Bonus points for finding one that will give you dirt cheap accommodation in the fort, we stayed at the lovely Shiva Guesthouse and had our own private room with en-suite for $1 a night, plus they have a great restaurant and the staff is amazing.

Jaisalmer - A Desert Safari

On the other hand, our “Desert Camel Safari” was a bit disappointing. We chose not to ride the camels because they looked sad, so we basically paid 2000R (£22) to be driven 15km into the desert, eat dahl and sleep in the sand with the beetles. I probably would have found this to be a magical experience if it wasn’t for the beetles, but the guys rigged up a sort of safety net for me and I was so grateful. Also, I recommend taking alcohol and a pack of cards!

Udaipur – The City of Lakes

Udaipur
They definitely call Udaipur the ‘city of lakes’ for a reason

Udaipur is known as the “city of lakes” and it is stunning, I fell in love with it. We spent some time walking along the river, through winding streets, finding hidden places to take photos of the white city skyline and some amazing restaurants to eat at, my favorites were The Little Prince and Bridge Corner.

We stayed on the little (almost) island of Tripur at the amazing Hostel Crawl. It’s a very tall building with large, clean rooms, en-suite bathrooms and an amazing rooftop space perfect for watching the sunset or sunrise. They also have some sick Harry Potter wall art that’s worth checking out if you’re into that… I definitely am.

We didn’t find much to do in this city except wandering around getting lost, eating good food and spending a lot of money shopping. You can visit the City Palace, the Jagmandir Palace or take a boat tour around the lake to see it all, but not with a puppy so we missed out on this. It’s definitely a city I would recommend spending a few days in just to unwind from the chaos of the rest of Rajasthan.

And that pretty much sums up our tour of Rajasthan! We saw temples and tombs, deserts and lakes, we rescued a puppy and I had all my valuables stolen, we missed out on some places and explored a couple places that are ‘off the beaten path’. It was a (mostly) great two weeks and is something every traveler visiting India should experience for themselves!

For more from Josie Acland click here.

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