Lumbering down the deserted highway a hundred kilometers from Pyongyang outnumbered three to one by your minders is perhaps not the best place to start kicking up a fuss, but prudence has never been one of our more notable virtues, and just because we happen to be in the world’s most totalitarian state an’ all, doesn’t seem like any reason to start changing that.

Besides, we’re feeling particularly trollish this morning—that’s our nickname, “The Troll,” it works on so many levels—due to having unfortunately drunken a bit too much soju over the last 24 hours.

North Koreans In Their Own Words!

See, to get to Pyongyang last night, we’d taken the overnight train from Beijing for two reasons:

Firstly, that way you get to see parts of the north of the DPRK that foreigners can’t see any other way—no doubt the parts you can see from the track are better than the parts you can’t, but hey even that much is surreal—there was one particular place where we saw the peasants staggering along with outsized bundles on their shoulders, followed placidly by an oxcart with a high stack of outsized bundles, followed by a higher stacked oxcart that had its tongue hooked up to some possibly-extracted-from-a-washing-machine-type “engine” thingy straight out of the pages of the more fanciful steampunk adventure novels, followed by a swoopily aerodynamic cargo truck looking as ultramodern as anything on the Chinese superhighways.

There are lots of places around the world where you can see modernity juxtaposed with Stone Age technology—but nowhere other than North Korea that you see quite this mixing by degrees of a 2,500-year span of technology in the space of a couple hundred feet. And their cutting-edge technology has this steampunk edge to it as well; when we were there, the papers were full of the exciting news of a breakthrough in electro-refining using pure graphite anodes.

Well, that’s very impressive and all…but it’s a breakthrough of late-1800s technology that’s quaintly archaic in any part of the world where you have access to rare earth metals not found within North Korea’s borders. It’s exactly the kind of thing that you find in the more thoroughly thought out steampunk worlds, (as opposed to the ones that are an excuse for goths to wear brown) which is where we came up with our soundbite to describe North Korea: a steampunk dystopia, and far more surreal than any of the fictional attempts you’ll ever read.

Secondly, by all accounts, the sleeper train from North Korea is the best chance you’re going to get to be in close quarters all day with North Koreans that are not official government minders—and we figured that would be a great story, “North Koreans In Their Own Words”!

But we’d somehow failed to account for the fact that we are not, in fact, capable of conversing with appreciably more fluency than “want eat” and “need bathroom” in either Korean or Chinese, which of course were the only languages collectively spoken by my three compartment mates.

Drinks On Me, Boys

So the all-day trip from the border to Pyongyang featured mainly that at every stop, as I would stroll out to the platform, find the RMB-only seller at this stop who was extracting foreign currency from the Chinese nationals who are the usual passengers on this train, buy a bottle of soju, and our compartment would proceed to finish that bottle before the next stop.

Buying rounds of liquor for the locals is pretty much a pro travel tip for instant acceptance anywhere you go, and for some reason it seems to be associated particularly with Canadians—happy to hold the end up! —But particularly so when you’re buying with your foreign currency for your new friends who couldn’t buy that liquor in their own currency at any price.

So by the time the four of us staggered off the train in Pyongyang, the cause of Korean peninsular peace had been thoroughly achieved as far as we were concerned, we were assuring each other in a haze of soju fumes of our new lifelong friendship with complete disregard for our mutual unintelligibility.

I guess not realizing that we were drinking a bottle of soju every stop from Dandong to Pyongyang does that…everything we say here that might cast shade on the state of North Korean technology should not be taken to apply to their craft of soju brewing, which is, in fact, superb.

Traveling “Independently” In North Korea

So here we were in the car the next morning, and we’re off-a-days-soju-bender cranky, so we’re not being very accommodating with “Miss O,” who along with “Miss Kim” are the two guides that every tourist party in the DPRK must have accompany them, even if your party is, in fact, just you. Plus our driver; a genially hulking fellow. This, in North Korea, is what passes for independent traveling. And we were being very independent:

“I don’t want to go to the DMZ. I have my itinerary here from Tongil Tours, and the DMZ is not on it.”

“Everybody has to go to the DMZ!” she responded.

“Well, good thing I’ve already been there from the South Korean side then. Some blue huts on the border, a concrete building on each side, pretty much as totally overrated as places to visit get, especially twice! I can prove it too, want to see pictures on the phone here?” I retorted.

Our Crazy Goal

See, we have this ambitious bucket list to visit every inscribed and tentative World Heritage Site, and Kaesong has twelve separate places listed in its Historic Monuments and Sites in Kaesong inscription, and my plan was to see all of them today, because what’s the chances of ever making it back to Kaesong? Pretty slim, that’s what. So we didn’t figure that the DMZ was a particularly valuable use of our limited time.

So Miss O and I were arguing this, and Miss Kim and the driver were watching us bicker with big smiles on their faces, apparently uncooperative guests are a distinct novelty, when BANG! out goes a tire.

Conveniently, a rest stop was just a couple hundred feet ahead to bump our way to. Only to find that the tire was trashed past patching, and the spare … well, in North Korea the concept of “spare” anything is a decidedly foreign one. There being no such thing as a North Korea Automobile Association either, this would require a significant effort to remedy; stranded halfway between Pyongyang and Kaesong is a pretty darn stranded place indeed.

Not So Stranded

But while they’re frantically phoning around to see what options there are, here comes another vehicle, pulling into our rest stop no less! —A bus full of a Chinese tour group. So my minders flock with theirs, and in short order, it’s established that the girls and I can join their group and our driver will find us whenever he’s mobile again.

OK, that beats hanging out most of the day in the featureless middle of nowhere, yes. And, as if I couldn’t guess, where by chance were we and our new friends going?

“The DMZ.”

“Of course we are. Miss O, you’re smirking. Ni hao, new Chinese friends!”

Mind you, it only heightened the surreality of this whole visit to be escorted into the same blue negotiation huts built exactly half on each side of the border by North Korean troops denouncing invasion by the South, after having been there before but escorted by South Korean troops that time denouncing invasion by the North; all of North Korea strikes you constantly as a Bizarro mirror world inversion of South Korea, but the DMZ in particular produces … well, it’s not déjà vu if you actually have been there before is it? Don’t think language actually has a word to describe that particular experience…

DPRK: A Restricted Secret

Anyways, we met back up with the driver at lunch, and over the course of the afternoon managed to get to most of the places on the inscription, definitely all that most people would consider worth visiting, and a few more besides…particularly the Kaesong Chomsongdae, which even as perhaps the most hardcore World Heritage Site geek on the planet, we do not recommend you bother trying to find.

(More details and pictures over at the Every World Heritage Site blog if you like.)

Managing to drive the better part of an hour because all four of us totally missed that we had driven directly through the old city walls we were looking for is a particularly good one.

Driving issues were a recurring theme on this tour, mind you. See, in case you haven’t picked up on this already, the general run of visits to the DPRK are extremely restricted; you see the very short list of government-approved attractions and monuments to the Party and so forth, and that’s it.

Planning this trip, we had a significant amount of trouble finding an organizer that would put together a custom “visit all the properties we can fit in of North Korea’s two inscribed WHS” tour—pro tip: Tongil Tours is your custom tour arranger of choice—and despite the driver and my minders having just short of two decades collective experience in the North Korean foreigner-minding industry, none of them had ever been to most of the sites we visited…or even heard of them, as was the case for the more justifiably obscure “National Treasure” like the Chomsongdae. And there are no signposts or maps because that would make it far too easy to get around; if you don’t know where you’re going, you’re almost certainly not supposed to be going there.

Even when you are supposed to be going there, that’s not always a sure thing. For instance, on our second trip out of Pyongyang, it was to visit a day’s worth of properties on the Complex of Koguryo Tombs site inscription. Which are somewhat less than monumental from the outside, as you can see in the pictures in our blog write-up of the site, and as far as we can tell, nobody ever visits for all practical purposes; each property has a groundskeeper that looks shocked to actually see a visitor, and a few grassy mounds with locked doors, and … that’s about it.

100 Euros For A Mural

The murals inside are reportedly spectacular, but dashed hard to find pictures of on the net—here’s a few—and at one of them, we were offered to have that door unlocked and see the wondrous insides for the low, low price of only a hundred euros. Usually we’re pretty good at bargaining, but in this particular instance we didn’t manage to get the price down at all—but we did manage to get Miss Kim and Miss O included, as they’d never been to these tombs either, let alone inside, and they were veritably ecstatic to get to see the murals. Rather telling, that.

Usually when we go to obscure World Heritage Sites, from the Sacred City of Caral-Supe to the Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park, the standard way it goes is that we’re the only foreigner in sight and the place has a bus or two full of elementary school age students who are just about completely uninterested in these dumb piles of rocks their teachers are going on about as being their marvelous World Heritage and all.

But what about with a troll? Now he’s fascinating to follow around. Korea has got to be the only place in the world where even the professional tour guides, never mind average citizens, have barely heard of their World Heritage never mind visited.

North Korea Is DIFFICULT!

And the reasons why they don’t visit were brought into sharp relief on our way back to Pyongyang after the tomb-hopping day:

“GET BACK IN THE CAR!”

See, we’d found our way back to the main highway to Pyongyang, and we’d stopped at a checkpoint, who’d told us to pull over, and they’d left me in the car, and now it was some 20 minutes later and I’d figured some leg-stretching was in order. “Just getting some fresh air, not going anyplace…”

“NO! GET IN CAR!”

Right then. If Miss O is shouting and apparently about to cry, probably not a good time to be difficult. So I got in the car.

Eventually they came back, and with a little bit of coaxing, the issue came out; although they had a permit for me to see the Koguryo Tombs, the car did not have a permit to drive on this highway. And this was a disaster of monumental proportion. Not for me, but for the driver. Who, never having had a group like me before, had no idea whatsoever that the guides might not have had everything arranged for him. And they had no idea that they had extra arrangements to make.

Think that’s what was going on, anyways. Point is…getting around this country is difficult.

Back To Tourist Safety In Pyongyang

The rest of the visit was pretty much the standard tourist fare in Pyongyang, you can read that over here as we did manage to see three of the properties on the Historical Relics in Pyongyang Tentative World Heritage Site listing, so we’ll tick that one off our bucket list too; but nothing particularly more amusing than we wrote there.

Until the day of our leaving, when we figured that with all the adventures they’d had minding a troll who was actively trying not to be minded, they deserved a nice tip. But tipping is an issue here—between that it’s illegal for you to possess North Korean currency, and it’s illegal for them to possess foreign currency, that doesn’t leave many financial options.

However, knowing this, and wanting to make friends as always, we’d bought some twenty-odd dollars worth of touristy Bangkok souvenirs, figuring those would be exotic novelties in the DPRK. Which indeed they were…problem was, since everyone we met was completely uninterested in taking anything from foreigners, we still had all of it on the last morning. So alright ladies: here I have a good five pounds of Bangkok’s most gaudy souvenir tat, how would you like to divide it up?

The driver, well that was much easier; he’d been quite enthusiastic about matching me shot for shot with our dinner soju each night, so a bottle of the most ornate looking bottle on display in the hotel shop took care of that—along with a healthy tasting of it to make sure it was quality stuff, as indeed it was, just the thing indeed to produce the right mood for our visit to the Mansudae Grand Monument, seventy-plus feet of bronze Communist deities: Kim Il Sung & Kim Jong Il, the Great and Dear Leaders.

And deities are barely an exaggeration; you must bow, cannot face your back to the statues, and must bring a bouquet of offering. Well, technically you don’t have to buy the bouquet, but Miss Kim got such a hurt look when we mumbled something about worshipping their dead leaders, we decided ok…fine…let’s go buy the biggest bouquet we can then.

And off to the airport for our exit, on Air Koryo—the world’s only one-star airline, according to Skytrax, but personally we feel that’s totally undeserved. Just for starters, they’re always on time—not that hard when your flight network has no connections—and they never overbook. As for the 1960s vintage Soviet airliners, well, far as we’re concerned it’s a renaissance of the Golden Age Of Aviation, with that same strange out-of-time vibe the rest of the country has.

Our Verdict

So that was our visit to North Korea. Before we got there, we thought that Bhutan was the most unusual country on the face of the planet, but we have quite thoroughly changed that opinion now.

Although it costs considerably more to arrange a custom tour, we absolutely recommend you do that—as we’ve mentioned before, Tongil Tours are the people who hooked us up, and we thoroughly recommend you call them too—and ask for Miss O and Miss Kim as your guides, they were far more entertaining than we’d ever expected!

So, what’s next for me? More World Heritage Sites I guess! On that note, here are my top 6 World Heritage Sites you should visit in North America—if you’re interested.

The post I Went To North Korea: Here’s What Happened appeared first on Modern Trekker.

Here’s everything you need to know about the Trans Mongolian Railway, and what you can do to make the journey as pleasant as possible!

Choose Your Train:

Passenger Trains

Passenger trains are the basic kind, slightly cheaper but slightly older and definitely not as comfortable.

My Chinese train from Irkutsk to Ulan Bator to Beijing was one of these; the bunks were solid, the carriage was old, the toilets were dirty with no toilet roll, you couldn’t buy snacks or water and the only plugs were in the hallway and didn’t work, but it is good enough and is sometimes your only option!

Firmenny Trains

Firmenny trains are slightly more expensive, but they will be a much more pleasant experience for longer journeys.

Your carriage attendant will do a good job at keeping the toilets clean and stocked, they can offer snacks and drinks, sometimes you’ll get fed, you’ll find plugs to charge your phone by each bunk and the carriages are generally newer and well looked after.

Choose Your Class:

First Class

First class is very expensive, but you get two single beds in a room. It’s perfect for couples with a bigger budget, or you can sometimes choose female-only compartments for women going solo.

Second Class

Second class means four bunks in a compartment and is significantly cheaper. Just remember, you can’t choose your bunkmates so you might be stuck with some weirdos, but it’s good for couples or groups, you can also sometimes choose female-only compartments.

You have a choice of the bottom bunk which doubles up as a sofa, you’ll be sharing this with your bunkmate during the day, but you have access to the table, plus storage under your bed. Top bunk is also great, room enough to sit up and a little bit of storage for your personal items.

Third Class

Third class is an open carriage with 52 bunks, like being in a big dorm room, and it’s the cheapest. Although there is no privacy, it’s also more sociable and fun to people watch, a great option for male or female solo travelers.

Third class bunks are like second class without the privacy, plus the extra “lateral” bunks running along the side of the carriage. The bottom lateral bunk turns into a table and two chairs, so you’re sharing it with your bunkmate during the day, but if there’s no one above you it’s all yours.

The top lateral bunk has to be the worst, it’s as cramped as the others (you can’t sit up in third class top bunks) but less private because you’re basically lying in the corridor, and you’re at the mercy of your bunkmate because if they want to make their bed, you’re stuck in yours.

Note for solo travelers: I’d recommend either the top or bottom bunk in second class, or the bottom lateral bunk in third class.

Seating

Seating is an option on some trains, I wouldn’t choose this for an overnight journey but it’s comfy and spacious and perfect for shorter trips. The seats recline, some carriages have a toilet, and even TV’s playing old school Russian movies.

Trans Mongolian Railway Tips:

Book Tickets Online

If you wait until you get to Russia and try to book at the stations, you might struggle to find a decent bed or it could even be sold out. You can use an agent like Real Russia, but they charge a high commission. I recommend downloading the Russian Railways app, once you’ve signed up you can easily view and book tickets online.

Note: you can’t book tickets between countries online, so you’ll need to either pay an agency to do it for you, or do it at the train station when you arrive.

Always Download The Ticket

Once you’ve booked through the app make sure you download the ticket because it disappears from the app once the train departs and they might check it again before you leave the station.

Check Out The Route

When booking the ticket you can see the route, plus the length of each stop. Screenshot this, keep your phone on Moscow time and you can plan which stops are long enough to get off and stretch your legs, but don’t wander too far, and take your valuables with you. It’s also listed in the carriage.

Wear Comfy Clothes

You’ll spend most of the time sitting around and watching the world go by. I saw one guy spend two days on the train (including sleeping) in jeans. No thanks. Be as comfy as possible.

Bring A Change Of Clothes

After even a day, you’ll start to feel a bit grimy. Have a comfy outfit to wear during the day, and something even comfier to change into at night. Don’t forget clean underwear!

Bring A Pair Of Flipflops Or Slippers

You aren’t really allowed to walk around in bare feet, and you wouldn’t want to. I bought a pair of slippers (I forgot to pack my flipflops) for $2 and it was a very good investment!

Bring Something To Keep You Busy

Sometimes you’ll find yourself too busy socializing to get anything else done, or staring out the window at the scenery, but sometimes the train can be really boring.

Pack a Kindle, a journal, coloring books, download movies onto your phone, or even bring your laptop… But don’t expect any power unless you’re on a Russian Firmenny train, make sure you bring a power bank!

Bring Something To Help You Sleep

Whether it’s earplugs to block out the snoring, a sleep mask to block out the lights, or green tea and a hot water bottle, do what you gotta do.

Pack A Small Toiletries Bag

Wet wipes will be your best friend. You could also bring dry shampoo, or perfume to hide the smell of cheesy feet. Don’t forget your toothbrush, toothpaste, and deodorant!

Pack Some Food

Although there’s a restaurant car, it’s expensive and limited. You can hop off and buy food on the station platform at the longer stops, or from your carriage attendant, but it’s not a great choice.

You want food that doesn’t need refrigerating or can be cooked just with hot water. A big part of the experience is sharing food with your bunkmates, so bring a little extra!

Most people eat noodles for every meal but you can get creative. Bread, salted butter, jam, honey or spread (I brought Marmite from home), cheese slices or hard cheese, cured meat, noodles, cuppa soup, instant mash, fruit, crisps, biscuits, crackers, chocolate, the list goes on.

I would also recommend bringing some sort of container to cook and store food in, I bought a large plastic soup cup with a lid and handle and it’s been a lifesaver! Some cutlery is also essential.

Bring Some Water

While there is an unlimited supply of boiling water on board, there is no safe drinking water. I brought a two-liter bottle and my own one-liter bottle, you can buy small bottles from the carriage attendant or larger bottles for cheaper on the station platform whenever you stop.

Have you ridden the Trans Mongolian Railway? Share any tips you have in the comments below!

You can also follow the adventure on Facebook and Instagram!

Suggested next reading: Train Travel In Myanmar: What I Wish I’d Known

The post How To Survive On The Trans Mongolian Railway appeared first on Modern Trekker.

The people of Guanxi Province, in Southern China, have an expression: “I would rather live in Guilin”, they say, “than in heaven”.

 

A post shared by Joe (@joethommas) on Jul 20, 2018 at 7:22am PDT

Even if you haven’t heard of Guilin until now, there’s a chance you already know a little bit about it. Close your eyes and try to imagine rural China. Are you picturing misty peaks towering above lazy rivers? Cormorants fishing in the twilight? Rice terraces glittering in the sunshine?

Well, you’re really thinking about Guilin.

I was lucky enough to be able to spend two weeks there recently, as part of a longer trip around China. I have always been enchanted by that landscape—mostly from watching nature documentaries as a kid—and for the longest time I’ve wanted to just sit down in those hills and imagine for one fleeting moment that I’m part of that life.

But I also hoped that my time there would reveal something of the local history, culture, and the reality of day-to-day life in this remarkable environment.

I’m not sure how fully I succeeded at that objective, but I did get a small taste of both the reality and the daydream. I’ll try to share some of these experiences with you here, in the hope that it will persuade you to make a trip to this remarkable part of the world.

Arrival

As our plane comes into land, I glance out of the window. In the distance, wreathed in shadow, are the towering karsts that define this region. This is my first glimpse of a landscape we’ve traveled halfway across the world to see and I can’t wait to get out and explore.

These unique limestone structures are created when acids in rainwater slowly dissolve the bedrock, forming tiny cracks and fissures that deepen and expand over time. Eventually, this process culminates in the formation of sheer, isolated and well-defined peaks that rise sharply above the plains below.

There are many places in South East Asia where karst landforms can be seen, but they are arguably at their most spectacular in the area around Guilin.

 

A post shared by Mercier Zeng (@mercierzeng) on Jul 24, 2018 at 1:29am PDT

But before we could get to exploring, we first needed to find our hotel. Guilin doesn’t have a train line from the airport to the city, unfortunately, so instead we jumped in a taxi—an experience in itself. With just one hand on the wheel—the other left free to produce an endless supply of pumpkin seeds—our driver whisked us down the highway and through the city, deftly skirting pedestrians and other vehicles whilst having hurried conversations with his family on the phone.

If you’re a soft Westerner like me then this sort of thing can feel a little chaotic at times. In Guilin, people use megaphones and huge PA systems to try and tempt you into buying fruit. The marketplaces and restaurants are always packed to the rafters and booming with noise. The traffic doesn’t stop, even at crossings, so you just have to dive out into a sea of mopeds and trust the riders to skim around you.

Don’t worry, it’s not their first rodeo.

But the longer you spend in here, the more you realize that there’s actually a sense of order and security underpinning what at first looks like chaos. More than that, the people seem to embody a sense of calmness in the chaos that you really come to admire.

For example, near misses on the roads, which would certainly provoke profanity or even violence in my hometown, here draw barely a second look. Restaurant and shop owners will try and tempt you to dine, but if you say no then you’re offered a smile and left alone, not hectored as you try and walk away, as is the case in some parts of the world.

In the evening the streets come alive with young people, but that doesn’t stop the middle-aged and elderly bringing out their stereos, whacking on the dancing shoes, and joining in the fun in the town’s many underpasses, alleyways, and any other forgotten corners.

So, how much can you tell about a place in just two weeks, especially when you don’t speak the language? Not much, I’d say. Just an impression really. Sometimes those impressions are well-founded, sometimes not.

But our impressions of Guilin were of a place that feels welcoming; a place where the locals genuinely seem happy. Every smile, every kind gesture, every stranger who offered us help—and there were many—they all just kept adding to the strength of this impression.

If Guilin is heaven, you’d expect this to show through in the people who live there. You’d expect those people, for the most part, to be happy, relaxed, tolerant and inclusive.

Well, they really were.

The City

Guilin is a low rise, medium-sized city with a compact, walkable center. At the heart of the town is Zhengyang Pedestrian Street, a busy row of shops, bars and restaurants which is also a great place to sample the excellent local delicacy of beer-cooked catfish.

Walk a little further down this street and you arrive at Guilin Central Square, a popular meeting place and venue for public festivals. A little further still and you’ll find yourself looking out over Shanhu Lake. This is where we ended up on our first night in Guilin, transfixed by the astounding Sun and Moon Pagoda and talking to a local English teacher and part-time tea farmer who had adopted the name “Barry”.

From Barry we learn that the two pagodas, despite being been modeled on two much older structures that stood in the same spot, back in the Tang Dynasty, are relatively recent additions to Guilin. These two modern towers, we learn, are connected by an underwater tunnel with a glass roof. It’s also possible to get views over the city from the tops of either.

Don’t bother with that nonsense, says Barry, just look at them.

And they are a sight to behold, especially lit up at night, their reflections dancing over the water. The Sun Tower seemed to me to express confidence and energy, the Moon Tower, serenity and grace. Maybe I was feeling the effect of a few beers but they seemed like fitting monuments to the chaos and the calm that is life in Guilin.

I’ll be honest, we were already pretty sold on Barry by this point, but then, without prompting or bribing, he announced that he loved football and had always wanted to go to my hometown of Manchester (UK). Instantly recognizing Barry as a man of impeccable taste and virtue, I began to envision a life on the tea plantations as his adopted son. But I didn’t let on. I decided I would play the long game.

Instead, we followed Barry’s suggestion to head back to the Central Square at 8.30pm to see “the waterfall”. Neither I nor my partner really understood his meaning at the time, but he’d long since earned our trust, so we went there, and we waited…

Just as we were beginning to doubt Barry’s integrity, all of a sudden music starts blaring from some hidden speakers, the small crowd that had gathered begins to buzz with enthusiasm, and as if by magic, water starts cascading 50 feet down from the roof of a nearby hotel, streaming over the windows and gathering in fountains on the street.

Oh, Barry! We never doubted you for a minute.

The next day we explore the area across the road from Shanhu Lake and find “Elephant Trunk Hill”, another icon of the city. According to legend, this strange rock formation was created when a Divine Elephant—the steed of the Emperor of Heaven—was wounded in battle and fell to Earth in Guilin. After being nursed back to health by a kindly local couple, the Elephant was said to have fallen in love with Guilin and so opted never to return to its master.

“I would rather live in Guilin”, it said, “than in Heaven”.

And there it remains to this day.

 

A post shared by Airin Widjaja (@airinswidjaja) on Jun 3, 2018 at 8:11am PDT

After a short but sweaty walk to the top of the Elephant’s back, I finally got the view of the karsts I had been hoping for, and it was breath-taking. I’m lucky to have done a fair amount of traveling in my time and I can honestly say it was one of the most beautiful landscapes I’ve ever seen.

I was beginning to think the Elephant might have had a point after all.

The Caves

Reed Flute Cave is the biggest and most spectacular cave complex in Guilin, arguably in China. Over the years it’s stunning features have been used by the Chinese government to impress all the great and good of world politics, as well as Richard Nixon.

Stepping into those vaulted ceilings it’s easy to see why the place is held in such high esteem. The variety of formations taken by the rock set the mind reeling; the intricacies of the patterns carved by natural forces inspire genuine awe. The use of rainbow-colored light displays, in my mind at least, only add to the ethereal quality of the place.

It was a similar story when we explored the cave at Seven Star Park. Although a little smaller, this cave is no less spectacular. In vast, cathedral-like spaces, stalagmites and stalactites join to form towering columns that rise like plumes of smoke all around us. Lights shimmer across the surface of natural pools; shadows dance on the walls. After several hours spent exploring subterranean wonderlands, it feels disconcerting when we eventually stumble back into the daylight.

On our way out of Seven Star Park we skip past the zoo and the tree-top adventure playground—one more reluctantly than the other—but there’s one last surprise awaiting us before we leave. Crossing the spectacularly misnamed “Flower Bridge”, we notice a crowd has gathered to gawp and point down to the river below.

Two bamboo boats, we discover, have collided and broken up in the water; the deck of one boat is all that remains intact, anchored on the rocks midstream. One bloke stands on top of the deck, another clings desperately to the side. The head of one less fortunate figure can be seen bobbing swiftly downstream, eventually making it to the bank a couple of anxious minutes later.

The police are called, survey the scene, call out to the men, have a brief conversation, then leave. Despite the fact that two men remain stranded in the middle of a river, apparently, it was decided, all was well. Calmness in the chaos.

The Rice Terraces

A bumpy three-hour bus ride takes us to our next destination, the Longji Rice Terraces. Despite my insistence we should hike from the vehicle drop-off point to the top of the hills, we decided instead to take the cable car. About halfway up I remember that I’m pretty unfit, and am thankful to have wiser heads around to remind me of this reality.

It’s a cloudy day, but on the occasions when the sun does break through, the hills seem to sing. The panoramic views of glistening water and lush hillsides are only broken by lone figures toiling in the fields.

 

A post shared by Patrick Kiener (@kienerpatrick) on Jul 24, 2018 at 6:02am PDT

It’s undeniably stunning, but a question plays on my mind of how authentic an experience this really is, and whether that even matters? Unlike cormorant fishing, which is a dying trade nowadays kept alive almost exclusively through tourist dollars, these are still working farms. The people who work here actually are farmers and not just playing dress-up for tourists.

There are crowds, but if you can look past that, then it’s certainly possible to feel some connection with an ancient, agrarian way of life that has endured for centuries, in the process forming the basis for much modern Chinese culture and cuisine.

And yet…a feeling is all it is really, and a fleeting one at that. Am I really any closer to knowing what it’s like to work in those fields, day-in-day-out, year after year? Do I have any genuine understanding of the communities that are forged in that beautiful but harsh environment? I have taken a closer look at the iconography of rural China, but am I any closer to really experiencing the substance of that life?

Not really.

But we must take what we can get. I was glad to be there, in the rural calm that underpins our urban chaos. We jump in our van and are transported back to the modern world, the deep connection to the past we sometimes glimpse, now already beginning to fade in the memory.

Still, it was a privilege to be there, if only for a short time.

Lunch

Lunch, I’m sorry to say, was less of a privilege. A whole chicken, minus the head but with very conspicuous feet, stuffed into a bamboo tube without seasoning or sauce, then flumped onto a plate was not what I’d been longing for if I’m brutally honest.

Still, when in Heaven…

On the positive side, the local style of cooking and serving rice inside a bamboo shoot was pretty great.

“God never hurls a chicken at you”, they say, “without opening a bamboo shoot”.

Yangshuo

The highlight of any trip to the Guilin area is a trip down the gorgeous Li River valley towards the small town of Yangshuo. There are a variety of crafts of different sizes that sail up and down the river, but most people opt for the little 4-seater bamboo rafts. As our boat purrs gently down the river there’s plenty of time to sit back and take in the views. We’d thought the scenery in Guilin was amazing but things really amp up a notch as you get closer to Yangshuo.

(By the way, if you decide to take this journey then try to bring a 20 Yuan note with you if you can. It will become clear why when you’re en route).

Once we’d made it from Yangshuo to our hotel we were able to relax before heading to Yangshuo Cooking School. A small barn surrounded by forest and mountains became our home for the next couple of hours, and possibly the only place on Earth I’ve not been bored by cooking.

Here we learned how to make a variety of simple but tasty dishes, and I found many reasons to be thankful. I was thankful we had another chance to try the gorgeous beer-cooked catfish. I was thankful for our instructor’s patience after I took about 5 days to disassemble an aubergine with a meat cleaver. Most of all I was thankful to make it out with all my fingers still attached.

Becoming A World Famous Moped Rider

After several days near Yangshuo town center, we changed hotel to move deeper into the scenic area. Here we rented mopeds and set off to explore the area. OK, we attempted to rent mopeds, but after 15 minutes of watching me veer recklessly around the car park, the hotel staff politely but firmly regained the moped and handed us a bicycle.

I felt like someone who’s just been booted off American Idol after being told they can’t sing: secretly I knew they were right, but still I rode off with my head held high, vowing to become a world-famous moped rider one day and prove them all wrong.

After some frankly incandescent bike riding we finished our stay in Yangshuo with a climb up Moon Hill. The hillside was steep, it was close to 35 degrees and a thunderstorm raged above us, but we would not be beaten. Step after step we fought on, every muscle in our bodies screaming at us to turn back, but we would not be beaten. Sweat streamed down our bodies, like tears in the rain, and we were being eaten alive by insects, but the summit was in sight.

We. Would. Not. Be. Beaten.

Laughing and panting (mostly panting), we arrived at the summit and were treated to another jaw-dropping view…

…And three very elderly women selling Cola.

They make that trek several times a day, often carrying heavy backpacks, deep into their old age. That sort of thing would take some of the buzz out of summiting Everest I’d imagine.

Back To Guilin

…And a chance to reflect. Are the locals right? Is the elephant right? Is Guilin really better than heaven?

Well, obviously no—it isn’t.

For one thing, I can’t conceive of a heaven that includes so many mosquitoes. Nor was I a fan of scraping the t-shirt from my back with a spatula each night (it’s hot). I’m also not so naïve as to think that once you probe beneath the surface you won’t find the same conflicts, struggles and social divisions that exist in every other city on Earth.

What Guilin really represents, to me, is more a sort of oasis. Despite the encroachments of urbanization and globalization, it remains a region whose natural beauty and cultural life have been preserved: a comparative haven of calm in the chaos that is modern China.

That’s not a criticism of China. Every country is changing fast. Every country needs places like this where we can connect with the past and commune with nature, even if the real action is happening elsewhere. Every country needs cities where we can transcend the madness and try to grasp at something eternal.

Guilin is that. It might not be heaven, but it does a pretty good impression.

 

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Everything You Need To Know

How to get there:

Although Guilin is a comparatively small city, it was also the first Chinese city to open to tourism (in 1949), so access is now pretty easy. Cheap flights are available from Beijing, Xi’an and Shanghai, as well as a host of smaller cities across China. There are also international flights available from Osaka, Hanoi, Bangkok, Seoul, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.

A full list of airports connecting to Guilin can be found here.

Train travel, unfortunately, is a little more complex. The best options are to come from Chengdu, Xi’an, or the Guangzhou/Shenzen/Hong Kong urban area in the South. If you decide to come by train then we highly recommend booking tickets through Travel China. We used them to book other rail tickets and they really made the process much smoother than we were expecting.

How to get around:

Guilin is easy enough to walk around providing you base yourself at a hotel that is reasonably central. There is no metro or tram system and the buses are confusing, so public transport is somewhat limited.

However, taxis are abundant and very cheap. Just be sure to have a copy of your hotel address in Mandarin to show to the driver, and download “Didi”—the Chinese equivalent of Uber—if you’re going away from the city center and are worried about getting stranded.

Where to stay:

If you’re looking for super cheap and cheerful accommodation then you could follow our lead and stay at the Cyan Box Hostel near Seven Star Park (roughly a 20-minute walk from town). We paid around 10 USD per night for a private double room, though dorms are available for around 5 USD. The accommodation is pretty basic, but the hostel has a nice vibe, it’s very safe and the staff were great. They can also help book tours to all the places mentioned in the article above.

Accommodation is still very cheap in China so if you’re looking for somewhere to stay that’s a little more upmarket then we’d recommend the Lijiang Waterfall hotel if you want to be very central, or the Sheraton Guilin, which is again fairly central, but just a little quieter.

In Yangshuo we stayed at the Bamboo Leaf Resort just outside town. The amenities and service were probably the best value of anywhere we experienced on our entire trip around Asia and I would recommend it whole-heartedly. Although the location is perhaps not ideal as it’s too far to walk comfortably in town. You’ll probably need to take a taxi to the hotel and then rent bikes/mopeds from their reception if you want to explore the town fully.

We then moved to the Zen Garden Resort in the scenic area. This was quite isolated, very quiet and just a bit strange, in that way that empty country hotels sometimes are. There were lots of frogs but very few people. I sort of felt like I was in a very polished version of The Shining. We spent a little extra on this hotel to get a nice view from our window and it certainly delivered on that, the location is great too. Other than that, though, I wouldn’t say it represents great value for money.

What became of Barry?

We don’t know. He told us where his tea shop was but to our shame we forgot what he’d said and we couldn’t find him again. If you see him, please tell him that we’re sorry and we love him.

Suggested next reading: 9 Gorgeous Locations In China That Will Take Your Breath Away (Part 1)

The post China’s Li River Valley: Better Than Heaven? appeared first on Modern Trekker.

That doesn’t mean it’s always pleasant. Stopping at security every time you change lines on the underground can be draining, the lack of English in train stations and airports can be a little exasperating, and if you arrive during a period of bad air pollution you might be disappointed to find your views of the city skyline lost in a dirty, brown smog.

In a time where the internet has made us better connected to the rest of the world than ever before, Beijing can still be a culture shock. But after a while those things that were unfamiliar and even a little daunting start to become sort of charming.

Beijing is not Disneyland—it has more important things to do than pander to Western tourists—but after a while you start to realize that the refusal to be anything other than itself is actually what makes it such a special place to visit.

Here are 10 things to do in Beijing that’ll make you fall in love with this city.

1. The Great Wall

This is the biggest reason, both literally and figuratively, many people end up in Beijing. There are four main sections of the wall open to tourists and each offers a different sort of experience.

Badaling is the best-restored section of the wall and is the most accessible from downtown Beijing, which is handy if you want to travel and avoid taking a tour. However, it’s also the most popular section, so be prepared for crowds.

The Mutianyu section is another popular choice and a little less crowded; and while the Simatai and Jiankou sections have not been restored and are harder to reach, they are much quieter and you can even pitch a tent there if you want.

We visited the Badaling section independently, by train, but it was actually quite an arduous journey. If I were to go back, I’d probably opt for a private tour to Mutianyu. Everyone’s different, though, so click here to find out more and choose the right option for you.

2. Forbidden City

China does many things on a grand scale, so it’s appropriate that, at over 74 hectares and comprised of a staggering 980 buildings, the Forbidden City dwarfs any other palatial complex on Earth.

The home of the Emperor from 1420 to the beginning of the Republic in 1924, the palace gets its name from the fact that it was forbidden for any member of the public to enter without the Emperor’s express permission.

Now finally open after spending several millennia cloaked in mystery, it’s no surprise that the museum within the complex is now the most-visited in the world and also one of the best things to do in Beijing.

Be aware: don’t show up without your passport as you’ll need it in order to buy tickets!

Planning help here.

3. Yonghegong Lama Temple

A mix of traditional Han and Tibetan architectural styles, the buildings that make up the Yonghegong Temple complex are a visual feast of vivid colors and intricate patterns.

The site has acted as a residence and school for Buddhist monks from Mongolia and Tibet for several centuries, and still serves this purpose today. The complex is stacked with books and artworks, including an impressive statue of Maitreya Buddha that stands at 60 feet tall.

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It’s easy to reach, having its own subway stop just around the corner, and is a welcome haven for peacefulness and reflection in the midst of Beijing’s urban whirlwind.

4. Temple of Confucius

The teachings of Confucius—the moral philosopher, educator, politician and social reformer of 6^th Century BC China—are undoubtedly one of the major intellectual forces that helped China become the society we know today. It’s impossible to understand China without first understanding his impact.

Pay a visit to this 14^th Century temple in Beijing and you’ll begin to appreciate the compassion and wisdom he helped instil into every area of Chinese life.

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Among the complexes quirkier highlights are wooden “textbooks” left behind by early Confucian scholars, and an ancient cypress tree that is said to be able to detect when an evil person is passing beneath it and smack them around the head.

5. Temple of Heaven

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Another of Beijing’s cultural wonders, the Temple of Heaven is the site where the Emperor used to come to pray for a good harvest. When you think that a bad harvest could result in open rebellion against the Emperor, you can see why this place held such significance in Chinese political life.

At the center is the mesmerizing Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, a building of such intricate decoration it needs to be seen up close to be believed.

There is also a famous “whispering wall” where secrets can be passed across large distances due to a quirk of acoustics, plus some extensive grounds full of small architectural and natural features which make for a pleasant afternoon stroll when you’re done.

The Temple of Heaven is easy to visit independently from Tiantandongmen subway station and there are excellent audio guides that can be purchased cheaply from the entrance.

6. Day Trip to Tianjin

When I was researching my own trip to Beijing I was surprised to see how infrequently the nearby city of Tianjin was mentioned in travel guides.

Only an hour’s train ride away on a super high-speed rail connection, it’s well worth taking a day to explore one of China’s nine major “central cities”, a place that is still unfamiliar to many of us in the West.

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Tianjin is full of delights, both old and new. Highlights include the many 19^th Century European style churches and colonial buildings, the panoramic views from the “Tianjin Eye”, and the Grand Canal.

As an Academic Librarian in a former life, and a committed book nerd, the cutting-edge Tianjin Binhai Library was a personal “must-see”.

7. Explore the Hutongs

The tight residential alleyways known as hutongs are where many of Beijing’s locals live and they’re always full of character.

Spend an afternoon charting a lazy course through the streets and you’re likely to stumble upon some amazing street food, quirky shops, impromptu games of Mahjong or simply the good folk of Beijing going about their daily lives.

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Each hutong has its own flavor and tour guides can be really useful in helping to bring the place alive.

If you prefer to explore independently then my best advice would be to book a hotel in a hutong—look for rooms in “Nostalgia Hotels” online—and even your walk to the local shops is likely to be a small adventure.

8. Eat all the foods!

No trip is ever complete without indulging in the local cuisine, and in Beijing that means you’re in for a treat—seriously this is one of the most delightful things to do in Beijing!

Chinese dumplings are a must, of course—Mr Shi’s in Baochao hutong is a perennial favorite; as is Peking duck—try Li Qun Restaurant in Beixiangfeng hutong.

Jubaoyuan Restaurant in Xicheng is a great place to sample a mouth-watering hot pot meal where you’ll get to dunk a selection of meats and veg into sizzling sauce.

If you need a bit more inspiration then we found this to be a handy guide.

9. Beijing National Stadium

If you were to draw a Venn Diagram with “sports fans” on one side, and “Chinese modernist architecture fans” on the other, and then asked me how big the center section would be, I’d literally have had no idea.

That is until the National Stadium opened to huge acclaim in 2008.

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The striking “bird’s nest” design—inspired in part by world-renowned artist, Ai Weiwei—is spectacular when lit up in the evening. After it plays host to the Winter Olympics in 2022, its unique place in sporting history, as the only venue to host both the Summer and Winter Olympics, will be secured.

Visitors to the stadium are well served by two subway lines that run straight to the stadium, and if you’re lucky there may even be a chance to take in a concert or game while you’re there.

10. Beijing National Aquatics Center

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If, like me, you look at Beijing on a map and think “it’s pretty far North, it’s probably not that warm”, prepare to be very wrong…and sweaty. Beijing can get really muggy, so after walking around its many cultural attractions maybe you’ll be in the mood for a nice refreshing dip.

Okay, you think, I’ll just go to the pool. There are pools all over the world though, it can’t be interesting enough to deserve a place on your Top 10 list, right?

Wrong.

This is China—they do things differently here.

Imagine spending an afternoon swimming around the brain of a feverish child and you’re somewhere near to imagining the surreal world that is the National Aquatics Center, sometimes more accurately known as the “Happy Magic Water Cube Waterpark”.

As well as the striking visuals there are also some pretty cool slides here for all age groups, and it’s right next to the National Stadium, so easy to combine the two into one trip.

Other noteworthy things to do in Beijing

The sheer number of things to do in Beijing means I’ve run out of space to cover everything. Though these places have not made the Top 10, they’re all equally deserving of a spot.

• Escape to nature at Yesanpo National Park
• Visit the UNESCO World Heritage gardens at the Summer Palace
• Enjoy the modern art scene in the 798 Arts District
• Take a history lesson in Tiananmen Square

Checklist

Before you go, here are a few essentials to check:

• Apply for a visa in plenty of time. It can be a lengthy process.
• Many social media and other internet sites are blocked. Download a VPN to your laptop and phone if you want to stay connected.
• Keep your hotel name saved in Mandarin on your phone in case you need to take a taxi back. English is still not widely-spoken.
• Get a translator app on your phone before you go. Wi-Fi is patchy at best in many places, so you don’t want to try and download it while you’re out there.
• Download Chinese social media apps. WeChat (Facebook/WhatsApp), Didi (Uber) and WeiBo (Twitter) are all very useful. Even if you don’t expect you’ll be making many friends over there you should still do it. Many tour operators use WeChat to coordinate meeting times etc. so it will come in handy.

China is growing and modernizing at an incredible rate. Like everywhere else in the world, many cities around the country are becoming increasingly homogenized, looking more and more Westernised. Beijing seems better placed to resist these changes than any other city I’ve visited in China, and as a consequence, remains truly authentic.

That doesn’t mean you’ll always be comfortable—it’s likely you’ll be challenged at times and it’s probable you’ll experience some culture shock on your first visit—but you’ll be amazed how quickly you start to feel at home.

Suggested next reading: 9 Gorgeous Locations In China That Will Take Your Breath Away

The post 10 Incredible Things To Do In Beijing For First Timers appeared first on Modern Trekker.

Arrive in Japan and it’s likely your first port of call will be Tokyo. Days spent exploring Japan’s capital could turn into decades and you still couldn’t cover it all, so at some point, it’s time to move to your next destination.

For the vast majority of travelers, this means moving on to one (or all) of the three major cities that make up the Kansai prefecture: Kyoto, Osaka, and Kobe.

It’s tempting to take a bullet train straight from Tokyo to Osaka, taking in a view of Mount Fuji as you pass by—sit on the right side of the train if this is your plan—but what if you have the luxury of a little more time to explore?

My purpose here is to try and convince you that a whole world of unique experiences awaits you from Tokyo to Kansai, and that it’s not as expensive to explore as you might think.

So embrace the art of slow travel, extend your budget as far as possible, and try to visit at least one of these 6 unique locations, none of which are among Japan’s top 10 visited places, but all of which have something unique to recommend them.

A couple of quick travel hacks to help extend your budget as you explore all that’s hidden between Tokyo to Kansai!

• Get a JR Rail Pass. Seriously, this is the best decision you’ll ever make if you’re taking more than a couple of train journeys. They allow access to all bullet train routes as well as other major train routes and some buses. Plus, once you’ve picked up the passes then you’ll never have to queue for tickets again and can breeze through even the busiest stations.

• Don’t be afraid to go super-budget on accommodation. Japan is an extremely clean, safe and respectful society and people tend to take a high level of satisfaction in providing excellent service, so you’ll be able to go dirt-cheap and still have a great experience.

1. Toyama

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Toyama is quite an industrial city and arguably lacks some of the charms of other locations in the area. However, its distinct coastal topography makes it the home to a unique natural phenomenon that is not to be missed.

Between March and June each year, thousands of bioluminescent squid are washed up in Toyama Bay, turning the shoreline a vivid electric-blue. Timing this can be tricky, so instead, fishermen will take you out on their boats where you can see the squid teeming below.

You’ll have to be up early to catch the boat, but as one of the only places on Earth you can see this phenomenon, it’ll be well worth seeing while exploring from Tokyo to Kansai.

2. Snow Monkey Park

The town of Yudanaka is built around volcanic springs whose waters the locals use as public baths called Onsen.

Stay in Yudanaka, or nearby Shibu-Onsen, as we did, and you’ll be able to get a taste of this local ceremony for yourself. Take a public bath with the residents—nudity often required, tattoos need to be covered—or hire a private bath for a more intimate experience.

About a 30 minute walk away lies some open-air Onsen that has been deserted by humans and has been taken over by the macaques that live on the mountain slopes.

Visit in Winter and you’ll be able to witness the unique animal behavior of monkeys bathing in the steaming waters. Visit in Spring or Summer and they’re likely to be playing than bathing; in Autumn they tend to retire back into the forest, so keep this in mind when planning your trip.

3. Takayama

Located in the Japanese Alps, Takayama is a medium-sized town noted for its skiing, cycling and excellent Hida Beef, a rival to the more famous Kobe Beef in taste and quality.

However, there’s one thing here that’s truly unique. Ever heard of a spiritual organization called Sukyo Mahikari? Nor had we, but it has centers all over the world and its heart is in Takayama, which hosts a huge golden temple known as the “World Shrine”.

Photography is not permitted inside but visitors are welcomed and the interior is unlike any building I’d ever been in before. Think being inside a huge tortoiseshell with an aquarium for an altar and you’re somewhere near it.

Sukyo Mahikari emphasizes using spiritual gifts to promote healing, and many adherents believe in being able to project healing rays from the palms of their hands. The building and their beliefs may be unfamiliar but I can say we were warmly welcomed despite being the only visitors, so why not go and see for yourself?

4. Shirakawago

Located in a harsh and remote mountainous terrain, this traditional village is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and its fame is worldwide. This makes it perfect stop while slowly traveling from Tokyo to Kansai.

This rests upon the picturesque thatched houses with their steep roofs designed to combat the heavy snowfall. These houses are said to resemble two hands lifted in prayer by the roughly 1,500 villagers who still live in these stunning surroundings.

Shirakawago is also famed for its unusual saké making process. A fresh batch is brewed in the village almost daily and has a taste unlike any other in Japan. Top tip: if you take a short walk to the museum on the outskirts of the village they offer free bowls of fresh saké to visitors.

However, what makes this place truly unique is that when the tourists leave, you don’t have to. A few of the houses have been turned into small bed and breakfasts called “Ant Hills” and can be reserved on popular hotel booking sites.

What could be better than watching the tourists leave and settling in with the locals, enjoying the silence of the mountains and the perfectly clear night sky? The price is very affordable but space is obviously limited, so try to book early.

5. Gujo Hachiman

Gujo Hachiman is off the tourist trail but your journey to get there will be as memorable as the town itself.

Mino-Ota Station is your gateway to the scenic Nagara Railway, a single-carriage train that cuts through lush green mountains following the meandering of the eponymous river. Stop at the town of Seki to visit the home of Japan’s most famous swordsmiths—as well as centuries-old Katana they also exhibit a sword shaped like a lightsaber—or continue straight to Gujo.

Gujo is known as the water city and if you visit in summer you’ll be able to swim in its crystal-clear waters with the locals. Marvel as the local youth test their mettle by jumping off one of the town’s bridges, but don’t be tempted to join them—it’s not safe unless you know where the rocks are below.

What makes the town unique is the way the waters have been channeled through the streets, allowing colorful koi carp to swim alongside the pavements and through the gutters around your feet.

6. Nara

Your last stop during your exploration from Tokyo to Kansai, Nara is situated near Osaka and Kyoto and is a must-see.

Nara was the capital of Japan for around 80 years until it was moved to Kyoto in 794 AD. As a result, it plays host to some of the most spectacular ancient architecture in all of Japan, most notably the Tōdai-ji Temple, home of the world’s largest wooden Buddha.

Despite this, Nara remains relatively untouched compared to its more illustrious neighbors and so is a perfect destination for those seeking a little calm and charm.

What makes the city unique is the deer that wander through the streets. Vendors sell crackers to feed the deer and if you hold the crackers at shoulder height the deer have learned to bow in order to receive their treat.

Japan is a country where a great many people place emphasis on living harmoniously with nature. There is evidence of success all over the country, but when you see deer taking a pedestrian crossing like it’s the most normal thing in the world, it feels like something that could only happen in Japan and you have to stop and think what a truly wonderfully unique country this is.

Here is what our 6 recommendations from Tokyo to Kansai would look like as a road trip!

So why not take the scenic route by traveling slowly from Tokyo to Kansai? Or, alternatively, why not check out these 6 truly amazing temples & shrines in Kyoto?

The post 6 Unique, Once-In-A-Lifetime Experiences On The Road From Tokyo To Kansai appeared first on Modern Trekker.

Luckily, we’ve got you covered. Here are our top 5 must-see destinations in Bali, Indonesia.

1. Tegallang Rice Terraces

There’s no shortage of rice paddies in Bali. These historical sites provide stunning views and the perfect scenic photo opportunity. But which are best to see? With so many rice paddies around the island, it can be hard to know which to choose. However, one of the best is the Tegallang Rice Terraces near Ubud. Here, you can admire the vast dramatic landscape, or stroll by beautiful art markets in the tiny village of Pakudui. Tegallang Rice Terraces are also quite easy to get to. Simply ask a local driver to take you there. Plus, it’s only half an hour north of Ubud so it’s not too much of a strenuous journey. Oh, and a pro tip: visit this gorgeous historical site at sunrise or sunset to see the sunlight fall magically over the scenery and capture that perfect shot.

2. Nusa Penida

If you’ve been on Instagram, you’ll have no doubt have seen a very similar shot of the beautiful Nusa Penida, taken at Kelingking Beach viewpoint. This island destination is located south-east of Bali and takes a mere 45-minute boat ride to get to. Once you arrive, visiting Nusa is all about exploring, so jump on a motorbike or find another way to transport yourself around the island. You won’t want to miss all the Instagrammable spots like Broken Beach and Blue Stairs. Not to mention countless stunning cliff tops with incredible sea cliff views. When it comes to things to do other than exploring the sights, Nusa offers plenty of tours to swim with sea life such as Manta Rays and dolphins. Convinced yet?

3. Tibumana Waterfall

Bali is also dotted with many fantastic waterfalls that are sure to take your breath away. But, if there’s one not to miss, it’s Tibumana Waterfall. These falls drop from a luscious fern-covered cliff into a bright turquoise-blue pool. The best part? This waterfall isn’t too difficult to access. Roughly just a 45-minute drive from Ubud, then a short downhill walk through the luscious forest and across a cute wooden bridge, a clearing opens up to reveal this unique spot. Spend some time here wading in the beautiful water, take a dip under the roaring falls, or snap away on your camera to get a great shot. This waterfall speaks for itself, really.

4. The Gili Islands

Making our list of the top 5 must-see destinations in Bali are the Gili Islands. With three to choose from: Gili Trawangan, Gili Air and Gili Meno, you can make a decision on which is right for you. While all will offer summery island vibes, cheeky sunsets on the beach, and plenty of aquatic activities, Gili Trawangan is better known for its party vibes and nightlife, while Gili Meno and Gili Air are more relaxed and romantic. Getting to the islands is easy, with boats leaving from Padang Bai on the mainland. It will take roughly 2 hours to reach the islands, but once you’re there, you’ll never want to leave. When it comes to adventures, if you choose to go on a day tour of snorkeling or diving, you’ll likely have an encounter with plenty of wild sea turtles. Definitely don’t forget your waterproof camera for this trip!

5. Besakih Temple

Last but certainly not least, the Balinese Pura temples are the final must-see during your trip. These Hindu temples hold high significance with the locals, and as such should be treated with the utmost respect. Take a trip to Besakih Temple in particular for a peek at one of these impressive architectural structures, with the added bonus of a majestic background. Mount Agung, Bali’s most famous active volcano can be seen in the distance at Besakih Temple. If you’re lucky enough to get a day clear from fog, you just might snap the perfect photograph to add to your collection. Besakih is also considered the most important of the Bali temples and has been long-standing for more than 1000 years. Though a little further out of the way with an almost 2-hour car journey from Ubud, it’s still well worth the visit.

And there you have it! The top 5 must-see destinations in Bali, Indonesia. These locations are all uniquely special, and likely to give you a taste of all the main attractions that Bali has to offer. Are you packing yet?

Suggested next reading: How To Go Rogue And See Southeast Asia By Motorbike

The post Top 5 Must-See Destinations In Bali, Indonesia appeared first on Modern Trekker.

As a waygook—foreigner—having lived abroad in South Korea for two years, I twice took the opportunity of visiting the Korean DMZ, the border that separates the two countries. It was on the top of my Korea bucket list and it is a MUST see for anyone traveling to Korea. While intimidating at first for those who aren’t waving “I love Kim Jong Un” flags, it’s an opportunity to get to know some significant history into why there are two completely separate countries which have many of the same ancestors.

So, being the notetaker I am, I jotted down a few key points I learned while visiting the Korean DMZ. Here are some of the top things that stood out while visiting the Korean DMZ.

What is the Korean DMZ?

The Korean DMZ is a 2.5-mile wide border that spans the 160-mile long peninsula between North and South Korea. Leading up to WWII, the Japanese controlled the Korean peninsula. Later, the area was predominantly communist with hopes of expanding throughout the entire area. However, that was a no-go for some southerners and the two sides fought in what is known as the Korean War from 1950-53. Post-war, 10 million people were displaced from their homes and the borders between the north and south were created and that is where you will find the DMZ. In the area, there are still almost 900,000 landmines remaining from the original million that were planted by North Koreans—so don’t think you can set out and explore this area on your own, cause you can’t.

The tunnels:

Along the DMZ, there have been four underground tunnels discovered as a way to get North Korean troops to sneak on over to the south. The first of these tunnels were discovered in the mid-70s and spans a distance of about two miles in length. Three more tunnels were discovered up until 1990. It’s currently believed that there are dozens more although none have been found. In my tour, we were allowed to walk through the south side of the third tunnel to see what the north had failed to build. The further you got, the tighter the space became and we were not allowed to go onto the northern side. What I found interesting was that the tunnel walls were painted black. The North Koreans needed to cover the fact that they were up to no good and needed to pretend the tunnels were for “coal mining.”

Dorasan Station:

In 2000, there was a ray of optimism for the south and north to have a railway line that could transport goods back and forth. That didn’t last too long. If you’ve ever been to a train station, you know it’s busy. Well, not the case for Dorasan Station just meters south of the DMZ. From 2007-2008 the station was open and would transport goods back and forth to Pyongyang, the capital of North Korea. However, in 2008 it was permanently closed due to a South Korean woman’s death by a North Korean soldier (as noted from my Korean tour guide) and hasn’t been open since. However, you can still experience the eerie station and the South Korean guards who are there for your selfie-taking needs. Apparently, a few tourists hop aboard the train today from Seoul, but there’s no way they can speed on over past the border. All we can do is hope that one day it will be useful between the two countries.

 

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Peace or Propaganda Village:

The south will call it Propaganda and the north will call it Peace. Regardless of what it’s called, it’s there. While visiting the Korean DMZ, we hopped on over to an observatory deck where we were not allowed to take photos. The South Korean military would actually confiscate and delete all of your photos if anyone attempted to sneak a pic. From the viewpoint we could peek into a little border village. I peered into my binoculars and saw someone riding a bike. For some reason, it stuck with me and for the first time it hit me that people actually live there. In my opinion, it’s a village set up by the north to make the area look normal, but looking out is still a mystery and who knows what’s really going on. The south thinks it’s fake and the north claims it’s real. And as a western non-Korean gal, I just am along for the ride to view what I see and make no claim as to what is factual or not.

 

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The optimism:

During part of the tour we watched an overly optimistic documentary about how the two countries can one day be united. Of course, as a non-Korean observer it was nice to see that there was some hope for the future. However, as an American who only lived in South Korea for a brief stint, I’ll never understand the complexities and tension of the relationships and how it could be a possibility to unite without a major conflict across the peninsula.

Visiting the Korean DMZ:

 

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From Seoul, it’s easy to sign up for a tour and head on over to the DMZ. Even if you are a free-spirited tour hating traveler, you’ll want a guide for this one. You learn from a local and can make pals along the way. Here are some of the top tours if you plan on visiting the Korean DMZ. You only need a day to tour the DMZ and it will be a unique experience that you can’t get anywhere else. Yes, people love to travel for the friends, food, drinks, museums, and beaches, but where else can you get up close and personal with the Korean border? Nowhere! When you finish up your tour, there are plenty of other fun things to do while in Seoul, but make sure to get cultured and learn about the controversy that still creates tension today.

Suggested next reading: 5 Incredible Places To Visit In South Korea Other Than Seoul

The post A Totally Unique Experience Visiting The Korean DMZ appeared first on Modern Trekker.

Be it taxi, subway, bus, or by foot, it’s easy to get all over Seoul. Even if you only have a few days, you’ll be able to easily pop around the exciting city and take advantage of witnessing an area of the world that has been up and coming since the 1950s.

Here are seven things you must check out in Seoul.

1. Walk Everywhere

One of my favorite things to do when exploring a new city is walking around and getting lost. However, with our little internet sources attached to our bodies it’s basically impossible to really get lost. Although Google Maps is not efficient in Seoul, downloading Seoul Map Offline will keep you on track if you are a bit worried about a wrong turn. Walking is a great way to see parts of the city that aren’t accessible from your taxi window or subway commute. Also, it’s free! While wandering through Seoul you’ll bump into adorable little spaces that would otherwise be unknown if commuting by wheels. Whether you discover one of the various cutesy cafés, heart-shaped photo booths, test out some new street food, or workout at one of the various outdoor stations with a local ajumma, you’ll have plenty to entertain you by foot. If you don’t know where to start in this big city, check out this app to help you navigate a Seoul self-guided walking tour.

On the other hand, Seoul public transit is top notch. If you’re feeling a bit like your feet may fall off by days end, squeeze on into the subway with millions of Seoulites.

2. Visit Gyeongbokgung Palace

Start that walking tour with a leisurely morning stroll through Gyeongbokgung Palace. It’s a ginormous Confucian designed structure sitting on the northern side of the city that was originally finished in the late 14^th Century. It was later reconstructed in the 19^th Century but soon enough almost completely destroyed again during the Japanese occupation after the turn of the century. However, in more recent years, Gyeongbokgung Palace has been partially restored and now contains about one-third of the 500 buildings that were originally located on site.

Once inside, you’ll have a chance to weave through the multiple passages while watching Koreans dressed in traditional Hanbok clothing to make you feel as if you’ve stepped back in time. You can get your mix of history, culture, and architecture all in one quick afternoon at Gyeongbokgung Palace.

3. Meander through Bukchon Hanok Village

Speaking of history, you can mosey on over to this authentic neighborhood in the city. The Bukchon Hanok Village is just a stone’s throw from Gyeongbokgung Palace and contains the country’s best-preserved hanoks. The hanoks are the traditional Korean style houses that were first constructed in the 14^th Century. Back in the day, depending on your style of hanok you lived in determined your class. Today you’ll see people walking around in traditional clothing, be able to visit the various outdoor markets popped up everywhere, and take pics of the unique architecture. This neighborhood brings together a unique history that is still seen in the present day. It’s a fun area to check out and view more of the older Korean culture.

4. Hike in Bukhansan National Park

If you need a break from the city, no need to go far. Just north of Seoul is that mountain your craving. It’s hikable year long, but spring and fall will be the best weather. At just 2,744 feet above sea level is Baegundae peak, the highest in the park, and it’s not a very difficult trek. However, there are multiple trails, so you can choose your length of hike and difficulty level before you head into your outdoor jaunt. You’ll only need some good shoes, full water bottles, and some snacks for your adventure.

If you want to hike the mountain true Korean style, be sure to bring your brightly colored windbreakers, visors, trekking poles, and a bottle of makgeolli for the summit.

5. Head to the Bangs

Bang in Korean means “room”—and there’s a room for it all. It’s fun to get a taste of Korean culture by experiencing at least one of the various bangs. If you’re feeling sore from that hike or walking all day then you can head to a jimjillbang. Here you can relax in a nice bubbly spa or get a scrub down from an elderly Korean. If it’s rainy and you can’t go outdoors, head to a DVD-bang. This is otherwise known as your own private movie theater where you pick a film from the ‘90s that you forgot existed. Want to party? Grab some friends and sing your heart out at a karaoke room—also known as a noraebang. Nothing screams Korean culture like screeching along to some famous K-Pop tunes.

If you’ve seen these symbols “방” then you know you are on the right track for a banging time.

6. Shop at the Gwangjang Market

Are you longing for a smell that you’ll never forget? Of course you are. Try and spend an afternoon grabbing lunch in one of Korea’s oldest traditional markets: the massive Gwangjang Market. Walking through Gwangjang Market will be a whole new kind of culture shock. You can easily spend an entire day here squeezing through loads of locals and tourists. You’ll be wide-eyed and entertained while watching locals stir up buckets of kimchi, quickly flip Korean pancakes for hundreds of hungry customers, and witnessing live octopus get chopped to bits.

There are over 5,000 various shops throughout this 450,000 square foot market that will get you everything you need and more. Be it clothing, cosmetics, food, juice, crafts, and more. Even if you don’t want to buy anything, make sure to at least test out a new type of food just for the experience. You will love walking through this crazy-busy-wonderful-colorful-pungent market.

7. Eat Everything

My mouth was watering for some bulgogi the second I stepped off of the airplane at Incheon International airport after four years. I had one main goal for my few days back in the ROK and that was to EAT. Eating your way around Seoul is an event in itself. Not only is Korean food absolutely delish, but I love that the Korean food culture allows you to sit at restaurants for hours without being rushed out the door. All you need to do is push a button and—voila!—the food magically appears before your eyes.

Be open to trying everything in front of your eyes. Seoul offers loads of unique spicy, savory, sweet, and smelly snacks. Best of all, you get loads of free side dishes with your meals.

Here are just a few things I make sure to binge on when traveling in Seoul.

• Before a night out: Korean BBQ, Dakgalbi, or Shabu Shabu
• On a rainy day: Pajeon and Makgeolli
• Street food hopping: Kimbap and Dukbokki
• Sit down fast food: Bibimbap, mandu, and doenjang jjigae
• For the brave: Raw octopus
• Dessert: Patbingsu

Best of all, none of these meals will break the bank. Eating local food (and drinking local soju) in Korea is very affordable so that you won’t have to hold back. Another side of Gochujang, please!

Remember to slow down and take in all of the people that go by. You’ll see cute couples hand in hand in their matching outfits, aspiring K-Pop artists dancing in the streets, and men in suits competing for who can throw back the most soju. It’s quite a sight for those who have not yet been to this little peninsula in Asia. You’ll love witnessing the cultural pride of South Korea while exploring Seoul.

Suggested next reading: 5 Incredible Places To Visit In South Korea Other Than Seoul

The post 7 Awesome Things To Do In Seoul That Even Locals Love appeared first on Modern Trekker.

1. Roast Goose

British food writer, Matthew Fort once said. “You could confit an old telephone directory in goose fat and it would be eaten with pleasure.” Whilst this is possibly true, we recommend letting the fat stay firmly on the goose and allowing it to crispy up the skin to delicious, golden perfection. With the addition of more than 20 spices and roasted over charcoal that is. Just look out for Roast Goose served Guangdong style and enjoy the mixture of crispy skin with unctuous flesh and be happy. One word of caution—watch out for the small bones!

2. Dim Sum / Steamed Shrimp Dumplings (Har Gow)

Dim Sum is the indecisive eater’s dream. The delicious answer to the question “but which dish do I choose? Why can’t I have them all?”

Well, happy reader, you can have them all. The Dumplings, the Wontons, the Rice Noodle Rolls. All yours in tiny perfect portions. And there are literally hundreds of restaurants in Hong Kong waiting to make your greedy dream come true.

Special shout out to what some claim is the highlight of Hong Kong Dim Sum, Har Gow. This pricey treat is made up of three or four steamed dumplings, made up of shrimp and pork surrounded in a thin wrapper. Juicy, moreish and bursting with flavor, this is a must-have item when visiting Hong Kong.

3. Fake Shark Fin Soup

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Thankfully no sharks are harmed in the making of this imitation dish. Just a lot of vermicelli noodles which apparently look and feel like shark fin. Good to know.

Joining the noodles in this most flavourful of soups are mushrooms, black fungus, pork and sometimes macaroni to make it a more filling morsel. All these are doused with white pepper, Zhejiang vinegar, sesame oil, chili oil and of course soy sauce.

You will find tiny bowls of steaming goodness being sold by street vendors all around Hong Kong. So remember if someone offers you some “Shark’s Fin in a Bowl” don’t be alarmed. Just take them up on their kind offer.

4. Char Siu

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Try even saying Char Siu without your mouth watering. We don’t deserve this salty-sweet, sticky mix of spices and Barbeque Pork but we have it nevertheless because life is good.

Also referred to as Cantonese style Barbeque Pork, Char Siu is easily recognizable due to its golden gooey surface, blackened by the grill. And you will recognize it a lot walking around Hong Kong as it stands as a firm favorite with locals and tourists alike.

The mixture of soy, hoisin, honey or sugar mixed with five spice may sound simple, but perhaps this can be a classic example that simple things are the best. But don’t take our word for it, grab a plate and find out for yourself.

5. Clay Pot Rice

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Another contender for the argument that simplicity equals deliciousness, Clay Pot Rice relies on extreme heat to scorch flavor into its ingredients. You know how that crispy bit of pasta around the edge of your lasagne is always the best bit? Well, Clay Pot Rice follows that rule and takes it to the extreme.

Ingredients such as pork, chicken, Chinese sausage or even mushrooms are added to the rice before it is introduced to a fierce heat. This, in turn, cooks the contents of the pot whilst creating a delicious crispy rice crust around the outside, adding flavor and texture to an already delicious dish. Finished with a splash of sauce, this really is a must-eat item, especially if visiting in winter.

6. Tofu Pudding

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After all that deliciously sweet, salty, spicy and sometimes greasy food you might be in search of a light, cleansing dessert. And you can easily find it in Hong Kong, in the form of Tofu Pudding.

Now although tofu may not be the first thing you think of when you think of dessert, it’s transformed into a wonderfully soft, silky texture that takes on the flavor of whatever topping is put on it. Usually, it’s either ginger or a sweet syrup but whatever it is, you can guarantee its delicious.

So why not see tofu through a new set of eyes? Your taste buds will thank you for it.

7. Bonus dish: “Stinky Tofu”

This is one we had to include but be warned, it’s very much a love or hate kind of dish. Even possibly both in the same serving (hate the smell, love the taste).

Stinky Tofu is made by placing tofu in a brine made from fermented milk and leaving it there sometimes for several months. It is very much the kind of dish you have to eat out as making it at home would be lengthy and smelly and might lose you a few loved ones. However, once you get over the smell, the taste is slightly sweet and mild, not unlike fried tofu. You might then ask, well why on earth wouldn’t you just have fried tofu? Well, we’re not really sure but as stinky tofu continues to be a firm favorite of Hong Kong locals, we can only assume there must be something to it. Please try it and let us know!

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We hope you liked the look of these Hong Kong dishes! Planning a trip to Hong Kong? Here’s how to make the most of it.

The post 6 Hong Kong Dishes You Simply Can’t Afford To Miss (& 1 You Probably Can) appeared first on Modern Trekker.

It’s disorientating, intoxicating and, at times, slightly overwhelming. Many people, myself included, only come to Hong Kong for a short time—perhaps for a long weekend, or a stopover on an international flight—so it’s hard to know how best to tackle this city in such a limited window.

If that sounds like you then our best advice is to prioritize one or two things from our list below. However, don’t be afraid to create a little free time too, and let the city carry you to places you least expect.

Get the best views

The Hong Kong skyline is undoubtedly one the most striking sights in the modern world. To get a full sense of what makes this city tick then you have to take to the sea. The historic Star Ferry is popular with sightseers and tourists alike, and with fares as low as 10 USD it’s the ideal way to see the harbor on a budget.

For something a little more memorable, consider a cruise on a sampan, or “junk boat”, one of the traditional Chinese fishing vessels that have become icons of Hong Kong. An evening tour (with cocktails) gives glittering views of the harbor that will live long in the memory. Prices for this can vary by tour operator, but you should expect to pay something in the region of 30 USD per person.

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For even more breath-taking views, head up Victoria Peak to see the full city spike into the air before your feet. The impossibly steep Peak tram line up the mountainside is every bit as memorable as the views from the top, although it can get a little crowded once you reach the summit. Still, it’s completely worth it. I wasn’t expecting to be blown away by a cluster of brightly-lit insurance companies and banks, but there’s something about all that light and energy in the middle of a sea of darkness that’s a strangely moving testament to the human capacity to create beauty in a void.

Drink the Night Away

It’s probably fair to say that most people don’t think of Hong Kong as a party destination but there are still a plethora of options for a night on the town. If it’s a touch of glamour you’re looking for then head to OZONE in West Kowloon to sip cocktails in one of the world’s highest rooftop bars. If you prefer to take to the streets then head for Lan Kwai Fong, the central party zone where street performers and local celebrities mix it with workers end expats across more than a hundred bars and restaurants. It’s hot, crowded and intensely memorable (provided you don’t overdo the cocktails).

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For a more detailed rundown on Hong Kong’s best bars, click here.

Get Active

For such a densely, urban environment, Hong Kong still offers plenty of outdoor activities to help you keep fit. Hiking in the mountainous regions around the city is always a popular pastime and Hong Kong has loads of routes to choose from. One of the favorites is the Dragon’s Back Hike, a walk that transports you from city to beach with plenty of stunning coastal views along the way. Alternatively, there are plenty of spots to try sea kayaking, stretch it out with some yoga, or simply grab your sports gear and head down to Victoria Park on Hong Kong Island to burn off last night’s beers.

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Buy Things

Whether you’re looking for electronics, flowers, or knock-off designer clothes, chances are you’ll find it in one of Hong Kong’s many markets. The opportunity to hunt for cheap antiques and quirky Chinese art on Cat Street is an opportunity that shouldn’t be missed, nor is the Temple Street Night Market.

If you’re more about those global brands then the area near Causeway Bay has what you need, or for some really high-end baubles, the IFC Mall is your best bet. Even if your budget only extends to window shopping, there are many reasonably priced restaurants inside the IFC where you can great views over the harbor without breaking the bank.

Take a trip

If big cities wear you out then perhaps you’ll be glad to know that the pristine natural paradise that is Lantau Island is only a short metro ride away. Lantau’s crowning glory is the Tian Tan Buddha, the world’s largest seated buddha, that towers above Ngong Ping village.

After taking a glass-bottomed cable car to the buddha, take time to amble around the tranquil halls of nearby Po Lin Monastery before taking a short bus ride to Tai O fishing village. Walk the laid-back streets, sample the local seafood and marvel at the cuttlefish, pufferfish, and entire sharks that hang from the street vendors’ walls. Take a boat tour around the harbor to get views of the houses suspended on stilts and – if you’re really lucky – spot the elusive pink Chinese Dolphins that sometimes fish these waters. Be aware, though, a lot of boat tours advertise as if spotting dolphins is all but guaranteed. It’s really not.

If you have the time to explore a bit further afield then jump on a ferry to Macau for around 20 USD per person. Visitors flock to this former Portuguese colony to wonder at the Ruins of St. Paul’s—a striking 17^th Century church façade that is now a UNESCO world heritage site—as well sample the local delicacy of Portuguese egg tart.

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Treat the kids

Children—they may be funny, full of energy and enrich your life, but man are they philistines. If you’re the generous sort who wants to give your sprogs a break from 17^th Century façades then Disneyland Hong Kong or Ocean Park could be a safe bet. Prices start at around 80 USD per person for a single-day ticket to Disneyland, and around 50 USD per person for Ocean Park.

So, there’s our guide to Hong Kong. In a way I think of this city as a sort of cultural equivalent of the Himalayan mountains: a crumple zone where two enormous land masses—in this case, East and West—collide, forming something spectacular in between.

There’s a lot to do, a lot to see, and a lot to learn. If it feels like you’re moving at a million miles an hour then don’t worry, it just means you’re doing it right.

Suggested next reading: 9 Gorgeous Locations In China That Will Take Your Breath Away

The post How To Get The Most Out Of A Short Stay In Hong Kong appeared first on Modern Trekker.