Natural Beauty – Modern Trekker https://moderntrekker.com The World Is Waiting Tue, 05 Mar 2019 15:29:56 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.9.12 https://moderntrekker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/cropped-Plane2-32x32.jpg Natural Beauty – Modern Trekker https://moderntrekker.com 32 32 144266218 Top 10 UK National Parks You Need To Visit https://moderntrekker.com/uk-national-parks/ https://moderntrekker.com/uk-national-parks/#respond Fri, 01 Mar 2019 17:39:32 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=4836 There are 15 national parks in the UK, with 10…

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There are 15 national parks in the UK, with 10 in England, 3 in Wales and 2 in Scotland. But what are the top 10 UK National Parks? Which ones are the cream of the crop?

Each one of these 10 National Parks I’ve chosen offers an awful lot: scenery, peace, wildlife, history, and cool places to see. I’d heartily recommend visiting any one of them if you’re in the UK.

So, here are my top 10 UK National Parks!

1. Loch Lomond & The Trossachs

Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park

Closest City: Glasgow, Scotland
Size: 1,865km2 / 721mi²
Website: lochlomond-trossachs.org

If there’s one thing Scotland does well its mountains. And whiskey. And actually shortbread. But also mountains…and that’s the first thing we’ll talk about today.

In fact, they have so many they had to coin a term for those higher than 3000 feet. Munros can be found all over Scotland but there are 21 in Loch Lomond & The Trossachs alone.

Joining them are 22 large lochs and 50 rivers and streams, meaning that both walkers, climbers and boat lovers alike can all find a brilliant way to pass the time here.

What To See, Do Or Eat

  • Now let’s get back to that whiskey. It goes without saying that a trip to Scotland should include a small tipple. So make sure to stop off at a friendly local distillery and try Scotland’s golden nectar.
Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park

2. Peak District

Winnats Pass, Hope Valley, Peak District National Park
Winnats Pass, a 20-minute walk from the village of Castleton.

Closest City: Sheffield, England
Size: 1,438km2 / 555mi²
Website: peakdistrict.gov.uk

As a hub for outdoor enthusiasts, you’d be hard pushed to find better climbing, walking or wildlife watching anywhere else in the UK.

This National Park is split in two; The Dark Peak characterized by gritstone and the White Peak made up of dramatic limestone. The former perfect for some serious climbing, the later providing beautiful panoramic views and distinctive, natural stone structures.

As an inspiration to Jane Austen, Charlotte Bronte and Daniel Defoe to name a few, it’s a must-see for any National Park enthusiast.

What To See, Do Or Eat

  • Visit Chatsworth House to see the inspiration for Pemberley in Austen’s “Pride and Prejudice”.
  • Pop down to the road to Bakewell to try an authentic Bakewell Pudding. Although you’ll have to choose between the two bakeries who both claim to have the original recipe.

3. Lake District

Ashness Bridge, Lake District National Park
Ashness Bridge, a 10-minute drive from the market town of Keswick.

Location: Cumbria, England
Size: 2,362km2 / 912mi²
Website: lakedistrict.gov.uk

If you like the idea of the Peak District but wish it included a bit more water, may we suggest traveling a bit further North and exploring the Lake District.

Home to 16 lakes and numerous tarns (or small lakes) this really is the place for any watersport lover. Have you really gone wild swimming if you’ve not done it beside a high fell and within a deep glacial lake?

If that sounds a bit too nippy, you can always join in the fun on a boat, canoe or other watery modes of transport and enjoy the breath-taking scenery whilst staying dry.

It’s easy to see why it’s the most visited park in the United Kingdom but as the second largest, there’s more than enough room for everyone.

What To See, Do Or Eat

  • Complete one of the famous 214 fell walks categorized by Alan Wainwright. Beware though, all but one of them involve scaling over a 1000ft peak.
  • After all that climbing, you’ll be needing a few calories. Head over to the small village of Grasmere where a small shop has been making Grasmere gingerbread since 1854. It’s so good they literally named the village after it.

4. Snowdonia

Snowdonia National Park is absolutely one of the UK's top National Parks!

Location: Northwest Wales
Size: 2,142km2 / 827mi²
Website: eryri.llyw.cymru

Famous for containing Snowdon (the highest mountain in Wales), there are plenty of other attractions in this beautiful area to tempt all. And by “all” we mean the over 4-million tourists who visit Snowdonia each year.

Woods, valleys, moorlands and historic castles all smatter the countryside adding variety to beauty. Or if none of those tickle your fancy, just pop down to the coastline to be greeted by 23 miles of beautiful, sandy beaches.

What To See, Do Or Eat

  • Fly through the air above a gorgeous quarry lake, when you visit Zip World Velocity 2. Although this might seem like a man-made way of enjoying the natural beauty of the park, as the fastest zip line in the world and the longest in Europe, you’ll be having too much fun to care.
  • Visit an authentic Welsh castle. Built by Edward I between 1283 and 1289, Conwy Castle was one of the most expensive castles built in its time. Go check it out and see if it was worth the money.
Bangor, Snowdonia National Park
Snow in Snowdonia.

5. Cairngorms

Would Cairngorms National Park make your top 10 UK National Parks list?

Location: Northeast Scotland
Size: 4,528km2 / 1,748mi²
Website: cairngorms.co.uk

Now to Britain’s largest National Park up in the snowy hills of Scotland. The Cairngorms boast ancient Caledonian Pine forests, astoundingly beautiful mountain landscapes reflected in crystal clean rivers and lochs.

If you’re a fan of winter sports, then head high into the hills for a spot of skiing in some of the most dramatic landscapes in Britain.

If you’re more of a history buff, then there are a plethora of castles, small villages, Highland estates and other suitably old attractions to tempt your fancy.

All this can be finished off with a glass of Scotland’s finest whiskey, preferably in front of a roaring fire.

What To See, Do Or Eat

  • For the adventurous among you, why not take in a spot of whitewater rafting. It may not be the first thing that springs to mind when you think of Scotland, but despite that, there is excellent rafting to be had here. Just remember to wrap up warm. Those Scottish rivers can be chilly.

6. Dartmoor

Dartmoor National Park

Location: Devon, England
Size: 956km2 / 369mi²
Website: dartmoor.gov.uk

Moving now to the South of England, Dartmoor National Park is located in the county of Devon, not too far from the city of Plymouth.

Dartmoor features wild ponies, medieval villages, stone circles and important archaeological points of interest. Used as a training area for troops landing on D-Day during WW2, the place also has a rich war history.

Dartmoor is also the only National Park in England that lets people camp in its wilderness.

What To See, Do Or Eat

  • Visit Castle Drogo, the last castle ever built in England (constructed ended in 1930) and located near Drewsteignton.
  • Check out the village of Lustleigh which has authentic tearooms, a 13th Century Church, and lots of beautiful thatched cottages.

7. Exmoor

Exmoor National Park only just about made my list of top 10 UK National Parks!
Source: shrinkin’violet

Location: North Devon, England
Size: 693km2 / 268mi²
Website: exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk

Located again in Devon, Exmoor National Park is about an hours drive north of Dartmoor National Park and touches the coastline that overlooks South Wales.

Like, Dartmoor, Exmoor National Park features quaint villages, wild ponies, stone circles and other similar places of interest. Though where Dartmoor is more dramatic, Exmoor is calmer and prettier with its rolling hills and North Somerset coastline.

What really makes Exmoor stand out is its Wild Red Deer and the fact that it is an International Dark Sky reserve. This means that, at night, the heavens are clearer and more spectacular than in places that suffer from light pollution.

So whether you visit during the day or night, Exmoor National Park is sure to impress!

What To See, Do Or Eat

  • Visit the Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway. This is the World’s highest and steepest water powered railway. Amazingly this railway has been running since 1888 and judging by what we’ve seen, it’s still going strong.
Exmoor National Park
Exmoor during Winter.

8. Brecon Beacons

Brecon Beacons National Park

Closest City: Cardiff, Swansea, Hereford or Newport
Size: 1,351km2 / 522mi²
Website: beacons-npa.gov.uk

Back to Wales now and less than an hour away from the busy city of Cardiff is the peace and tranquillity of the Brecon Beacons.

There are more ponies to be found here but this time it’s Welsh Mountain Ponies that might cross your path, whilst above them soar beautiful red kites on the lookout for dinner.

Everything you want from a National Park can be found here; amazing walks, stunning scenery, historical castles and as the Brecon Beacons have been chosen as a Global Geopark, you know there are some amazing sights to be seen.

What To See, Do Or Eat

  • The beauty doesn’t stop when you go underground. At Dan-yr-Ogof National Showcaves, visitors get an introduction to the otherworldly beauty of Welsh caves.
  • Eat a Welsh cake. Available all over Wales, these griddle cakes have been around since the late 19th Century. Immensely popular and perfect after a long day exploring the Welsh countryside.
Brecon Beacons National Park

9. Yorkshire Dales

Yorkshire Dales National Park is a must for any top 10 UK National Parks list.

Location: Northern England
Size: 2,178km2 / 841mi²
Website: yorkshiredales.org.uk

If you’re a fan of a dry-stone wall, then you will really love the Yorkshire Dales. These unique structures have stood the test of time and create a very distinctive landscape amongst the green, rolling Yorkshire hills.

The Yorkshire Dales is a haven for walkers who may choose to scale one of the famous three peaks, Ingleborough, Whernside and Pen-y-ghent. Or they may choose to strike their own path and walk the hills that inspired so many Bronte Sisters novels.

What To See, Do Or Eat

  • Yorkshire folk take their cheese very seriously and it has had delicious results. Birthplace of Wensleydale cheese, you can also get a cracking bit of cheddar cheese around these parts. Eat your cheese with a bite of apple or a slice of rich Christmas cake in December…either way you’re in for a treat!

10. New Forest

New Forest National Park

Closet City: Southampton
Size: 566km2 / 219mi²
Website: newforestnpa.gov.uk

New Forest National Park is a dreamy place filled with magnificent landscapes graced with wild horses and ponies. There is a huge range of rare animals and plants here to give the park the rather pompous title of the “World Capital for Wildlife”.

Perfect for runners or cyclists, there are many fantastic routes on offer that will help you stay fit while escaping into nature. The park is great all year round and is just as popular with people as it is with animals—though it’s not overcrowded.

This gem in the South of England is definitely worth a visit (or two!)

What To See, Do Or Eat

  • Visit The Greenwood Tree after a lovely walk for hot food & drink with a friendly atmosphere that is also good for kids.
  • Car enthusiasts should check out the National Motor Museum details the fascinating motoring history of Britain as well as housing cars from James Bond films, and cars created by Jeremy Clarkson, Richard Hammond, and James May.
New Forest National Park deserves its place as one of my top 10 UK National Parks!

What did you think of my selection of top 10 UK National Parks? What would make your top 10 list of National Parks in the UK? Feel free to comment below.

PS. I’d like to send my condolences to the 5 unlucky National Park losers who only narrowly missed this list: Pembrokeshire Coast, Northumberland, North York Moors, The Broads, and South Downs. All great National Parks in their own right and they each offer something unique!

Suggested next reading: Faith Hidden Among The Rocks: Lud’s Church In The Peak District, England

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7 Ways To Make Your Iceland Road Trip A Truly Magical Experience https://moderntrekker.com/iceland-road-trip/ https://moderntrekker.com/iceland-road-trip/#comments Sat, 09 Feb 2019 08:00:40 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=3341 Every wanderluster needs to do an Iceland road trip at…

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Every wanderluster needs to do an Iceland road trip at some point in their life—like ASAP, because the country is literally melting!

If you love nature, hiking, taking photos, and spontaneous road tripping amongst various and unreal landscapes, then Iceland is perfect for your dream vacay. You’ve likely seen some #icelandroadtrip breathtaking pics on the interwebs, but nothing compares to seeing Iceland’s nature in person. You need to touch it, smell it, drive it, and hike it all for yourself!

Be it solo travel, with friends, or with that random stranger you meet while buying discounted booze at the duty-free shop in the airport, an Iceland road trip will offer an ultimate adventure to remember!

I was fortunate enough to venture solo on an Iceland road trip. I didn’t have much planned besides driving around and winging it. It was a breeze to run into random sights and go to places I had read about all while jamming to 90’s CDs in my cute little blue car. When the sun finally dipped down for a few hours each evening, I snoozed in campground parking lots to refresh myself for the following day’s adventures. It was perfect!

Save money sleeping in my car in Iceland
Renting a car from Keflavik Airport before arrival is the most efficient way of making sure you’re saving money and taking advantage of securing your transportation for your Iceland road trip.

But looking for things to do? Here are 7 reasons to hop out of your car during your Iceland road trip:

1. Walk around Reykjavik

Reykjavik, Iceland’s capital city, will remind you of a 500 piece puzzle you put together at your grandmother’s house as a child. It is an adorable picturesque town where one-third of the 330,000 Icelandic residents live. It’s a perfect place to relax and wander about for a couple of days as you put together the final touches on your Iceland road trip itinerary.

You’ll find the small town of Reykjavik easy to navigate. Even if you don’t stay in the city center, it’s easy to get around by foot or pop into your car for a quick drive.

One of the first things you should do upon arrival is sign up for the free walking tour to learn a bit about Iceland’s history and culture. This tour will be guided by a vibrant local whose name will have too many syllables to remember. Make sure to ask your guide about Icelandic name culture! The tour is also a great way to meet other travelers and snag a new friend who wants to join in and split the cost of fuel on your Iceland road trip.

Reykjavik
Stop what your doing, get on Instagram, and search: “logreglan.” Yep, it’s true; Iceland is so chill (ha!) that even Reykjavik’s police force have their very own fun-loving Instagram account.
Hallgrímskirkja Church
The beautiful Hallgrímskirkja church towers over the city and is a good point of reference if you want to leave behind your map.

You can also head into the gorgeous glass convention center on the water, go for a pricey brew—because you deserve one—at one of the many pubs, and pop into a tourist office if you need any last minute advice for your Iceland road trip.

Ring Road Iceland
If you’ve done a quick Google search, you’ve likely heard of the ring road. It’s your go-to road that wraps around Iceland for just over 800 miles.

2. Save $$ and camp

With many campgrounds speckled around Iceland, it’s a breeze to find a place to sleep. You will find camping to be very efficient and affordable compared to snagging a dorm bed or guesthouse.

In Reykjavik you can either rent a tent, camper van, or sleep in your car. Camping across Iceland makes it easy to decide on the spot where you want to get your beauty rest or scout out the northern lights. Although the weather can be unpredictable, camping is a common way for road trippers to see the country. If weather conditions worry you, opt for a camper van rather than a tent to make sure you have a comfortable experience.

Depending on if you are in a national park or not will determine the cost of camping. I stayed for both free and very low prices while sleeping in my car with an extra warm sleeping bag.

Þórufoss
When I did my Iceland road trip, I downloaded Google offline maps, pinned all of my MUST-see places, and then started driving. If you see this sign, it means that something nearby is worth a look. If I needed WIFI, a bathroom break, or food, I would stop at the nearest gas station.

3. Bathe in the many hot springs

The natural pools around Iceland, which will warm you up amongst the chilly weather, are perfect for any season. Iceland, being a bit of a colder vacay destination, makes sure to keep everyone happy by offering beautiful warm pools.

Less than an hour from Reykjavik is the famous Blue Lagoon. It’s worth a look if you’re ok with paying loads of cash and getting the same selfies everyone else already has. Not to say you shouldn’t go; but there are many more options that are actually affordable or free!

Seljavallalaug Pool is located in the south amongst a gorgeous backdrop of mountains. Although it can get busy, it’s a perfect place to relax, soak in the tubs, and wonder if this entire trip is all real life.

Seljavallalaug Pool
Seljavallalaug pool

Reykjadalur hot springs take you on a mild hour-long hike up into a hillside valley. The hike may take longer as you’ll want to snap pics the whole way. Once you make it to the river, you’ll see pop up decks and changing areas and be able to soak in the mountains.

Reykjadalur
Reykjadalur hot springs

As we can go on for pages and pages raving about Iceland’s hot springs, you’ll have to check out the best ones for yourself! With over 250 geothermal areas across the country, you’ll have to go out of your way to not stumble upon a few of them.

4. Go hiking

What better way to see the beauty of Iceland by foot? Although your cozy car will give you stellar views, you will need to get out and stretch every now and then. Beware the weather and pack layers!

Whether you’re in areas just off of the ring road such as Skaftafell National Park, weaving your way up through Fjaðrárgljúfur, or completely lost in nature near Westfjords Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, you can find a hike right up your alley. You don’t have to be a pro hiker to enjoy Iceland’s nature by foot.

But make sure to pack correctly, leave no trace, and to get out of the car every now and then to truly immerse yourself into nature.

My favorite hike in Iceland was during a late afternoon near the southern town of Vik. If you look just north of the city, you see towering plateaus and a church on the hillside. Behind the church is a trail that extends vertically onto what seems to be the top of the mountain.

I was interested in seeing where it would take me. I ended up traversing the cliff sides as the sun was setting. There was not a soul in sight for the duration of my five-hour hike.

I spied on the town below and the views from the top were mindblowing. The sea to the south and neverending valleys and glaciers to the north. The serenity and peacefulness on that hike was a feeling that everyone needs to experience while traveling.

Vik, Iceland

Vik, Iceland

5. Snap some photos of the waterfalls

As you’re driving, you’ll be gazing at the hillsides and see waterfalls every few minutes. “Look there! Look there!” You’ll catch yourself saying out loud. Iceland promises gorgeous waterfalls all over the country. In fact, more than 10,000 waterfalls drip from the high mountainsyou can’t miss them.

It’s definitely worth stepping out of your car and take advantage of that photo op. There is no selfie shame while in Iceland!

While some of those amazing waterfalls, like Gullfoss, Skogafoss, and Seljalandsfoss are busy with tons of tourists year round, you can also find many others along your trip that are worth a look.

Seljalandsfoss, Iceland
Seljalandsfoss
Skogafoss, Iceland
Skogafoss
Gullfoss, Iceland
Gullfoss

6. Picnic at the beaches

You may not be sunbathing amongst the warm seas, but that doesn’t mean you should pass up Iceland’s beaches. With summer weather peaking at a possible high of 70 degrees (25°C), you may get just a teeny glimpse of possible swimwear weather. However, the array of the unique nature of the beaches makes them perfect for visiting even in the winter. Beaches in the tropics don’t compare to the unique beaches in Iceland.

The Black Sand beach near Vik has columns of basalt rock formations. Diamond Beach and Jokulsarlon are both Insta-worthy. There’s also the remote Red Sands beach in the Westfjords that will not be overrun with partying tourists. Regardless of your itinerary, beaches will be with you the whole way.

Vik, Iceland
The Black Sand beach near Vik

“But I really wanted to surf!” Guess what; you can! Surfing the crisp waters surrounding Iceland may not be everyone’s dream, but if you’ve got the chance, go for it!

7. To top off your Iceland road trip: binge on hot dogs

Iceland is not well known for its delectable cuisine. Honestly, the most efficient way to stay fueled during your Iceland road trip is to BYO-stuff. If you can load up your bag with granola bars, trail mix, dried fruit, and snacks, you’re set. The food in Iceland is fairly expensive.

If you are on a budget, you should stop at the mini stops where you will fuel up and chomp on Icelandic hot dogs. “Wait what?!” You ask. Well, Iceland’s hot dogs are a thing! Everyone loves them and can afford to buy them. Those cheap, free-range, grass-fed, organic, lamb-meat, delicious hot dogs will sustain you throughout your Iceland road trip.

“Will those sustain you for breakfast, lunch, AND dinner?” you ask. Welp, worked for me! Now give it a shot.

Hot Dog Stand, Reykjavik
The busyness of this hot dog stand at night in Reykjavik tells you all you need to know about how great the hot dogs are! Photographer: cjuneau

Pack your hiking boots, swimsuit, and jacket because it’s time to book that ticket for your ultimate Iceland road trip! The drive alone will offer various dashboard views of glaciers, sunsets, fjords, and greenery you’ve never seen before. You can read all about it and scroll all of the pics online, but it truly is worth visiting in person and taking it in yourself.

The country is easily accessible if you have a car or are brave enough to hitchhike. It’s safe, fun, friendly, relaxing, and great for those who need some adventure.

Me in Iceland
Me in Iceland

Suggested next reading: 10 Things I Wish I’d Known Before Going To Iceland

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5 Reasons To Skip Bali And Visit Java Instead https://moderntrekker.com/java-indonesia/ https://moderntrekker.com/java-indonesia/#respond Mon, 04 Feb 2019 08:00:13 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=4314 The overwhelming smell of sulfur bombarded my senses as I…

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The overwhelming smell of sulfur bombarded my senses as I neared the top of the rickety wooden staircase, embarrassed at my lungs’ inability to keep up. I was in Java, Indonesia, and I was loving every moment of it.

I glimpsed people above me reaching the top, exclamations of surprise and wonder just barely reaching my ears—the sound of the steam was already deafening.

With one last push of energy, I made it up the final steps, greeted by an enormous black pit before me that hissed and thundered from the lava below. After two days of travel and just 1.5 hours of sleep, I’d arrived at Mount Bromo.

Bromo Temple, Indonesia
Mount Bromo. | Java, Indonesia

This mesmerizing volcano lives on the eastern end of the island of Java, the geographic and economic epicenter of Indonesia. Home to more than half of the Indonesian population, Java is a stunning island almost entirely of volcanic rock—but only one-third of the volcanoes are currently active.

Situated right next to the more well-known island of Bali, the majority of its inhabitants are Muslim and dominantly speak Javanese, in addition to the national language of Indonesian. Jakarta, the capital of Indonesia, is located on the northwest coast of the island and is the largest city in the nation of islands. (Indonesia is made up of thirteen thousand islands!)

Java is quintessential Indonesia—it boasts major metropolitan cities, lush jungles, incredible volcanoes, tea plantations, and massive temples. While most tourists head to its popular neighbor Bali, Java has flown under the radar and maintained more Indonesian authenticity.

Here are five reasons to skip Bali on your next Southeast Asian adventure and visit Java, Indonesia instead:

1. There’s less tourism, commercialism, and crowds

Java, Indonesia
Java is a lot more deserted than Bali. | Java, Indonesia

Java feels like a quiet retreat compared to Bali. While the most frequented areas of Bali are filled with holidaying Australians, partying hipsters, and wealthy yogis, Java feels much more untouched.

As a Westerner in Java, you’re more of an anomaly than a fixture. You can stay in a hostel in a small village in the jungle and dine on delicious local cuisine, like nasi goreng (fried rice) and tempe goreng (fried tempeh)—for half the price of a dish in Bali.

You’re able to meet locals and experience what life is like in Indonesia apart from the influx of tourists on vacation. In a nutshell? You get to see the real Indonesia.

2. Four UNESCO world heritage sites are in Java, Indonesia

Java, Indonesia
4 out of Indonesia’s 8 UNESCO sites are in Java! | Java, Indonesia

Even if you only visited one of these iconic UNESCO sites, it’d be worth the trip. Just north of Yogyakarta is Borobudur Temple, a massive 9th-century Buddhist temple that ranks with Cambodia’s Angkor Wat.

Borobudur is Indonesia’s single most visited tourist attraction, and popular for watching the sunrise. (Take a motorbike from Yogyakarta and get there early, as it tends to be crowded in the early morning hours.) Prambanan Temple is another popular one, the country’s largest Hindu temple compound that originally consisting of 240 temples.

Even if you don’t pay the entrance fee, you can wander the temples and ruins on the outskirts and still get a good feel for the magnitude of it.

Ujung Kulon National Park, located on the westernmost point of Java, is a stunning lowland rainforest that is the last known refuge for the endangered Javan rhinoceros and other threatened plants and species. The park includes the famous Krakatoa reserve, home to the most-studied volcanic eruption that killed 36,000 people in 1883.

Last but not least is Sangiran, an archaeological site located in central Java that is “recognized by scientists to be one of the most important sites in the world for studying fossil man,” according to a UNESCO report. Despite not being well-preserved when it was first discovered, Sangiran now boasts a modern museum.

3. It’s home to Mount Ijen and Mount Bromo

Java, Indonesia
Java boasts stunning volcanos. | Java, Indonesia
Java, Indonesia
Could you ever get bored of this? | Java, Indonesia

On the eastern side of Java are two of the most stunning volcanoes. Mount Bromo is a popular destination at sunrise, with the option to travel by Jeep to the top of Mount Penanjakan for an incredible view of the volcano. A pink sea of mist envelops the ground as the sun slowly rises, illuminating the billows of steam pouring out of Bromo below.

A bit further east is the Ijen volcano, known for its one-kilometer-wide turquoise-colored crater lake that’s home to a sulfur mining operation. Most popularly, a midnight two-hour hike leads visitors to the infamous “blue fire crater” to see the otherworldly ignited sulfuric gas.

The Greater Bromo, Indonesia
The greater Bromo volcano. | Java, Indonesia

4. Yogyakarta is a cultural hotspot

Borobudur Temple, Indonesia
Borobudur Temple. | Java, Indonesia

A highlight of Java, Indonesia is the city of Yogyakarta, or “Yogya” as it’s affectionately known.

Home to a multitude of colleges and universities, Yogya has a large student population and a rich tradition of arts and culture. Batik textiles, traditional cooking classes, Javanese dance, and its proximity to Borobudur and Prambanan temples make it a popular tourism destination, even offering some Western comforts like restaurants serving hamburgers and beer (alcohol is hard to come by in Java, as it’s a mostly Muslim island).

Yogya is the perfect place to wander aimlessly and stumble upon rambling alleyways, bustling markets, and ancient palaces.

5. The train system is a great way to see the island

Unlike Bali, Java’s reputable rail network is a reliable way to explore the 1000-kilometer island.

Away from the Westerners that flood Bali’s buses and ride-shares like Uber and Grab, train rides in Java are easy, comfortable, and affordable. All trains offer air conditioning, power outlets, and dining cars, making a tour of the countryside an enjoyable alternative to flights. (And tickets are easy to purchase.)

You can rumble through Java’s lush green rice fields peacefully, passing volcanoes and rural towns. Trains in Java connect all the major cities and tourist destinations, including Mount Bromo, and you can take a train from Jakarta in the far West all the way to Banyuwangi in the far East, the ferry terminal for Bali.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BN3vEb_lf8u/?utm_source=ig_embed


While Bali is indeed a gorgeous island of Hindu culture, bohemian art, and deep spirituality, it sometimes steals the spotlight from its equally-as-impressive neighbor. An ancient epicenter of colonialism and resilience, Java, Indonesia deserves more praise—and perhaps a stop on your next Southeast Asia itinerary.

Suggested next reading: How To Go Rogue And See Southeast Asia By Motorbike

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15 Expert Tips For Planning A Trip To See The Northern Lights https://moderntrekker.com/planning-a-trip-to-see-the-northern-lights/ https://moderntrekker.com/planning-a-trip-to-see-the-northern-lights/#comments Fri, 01 Feb 2019 17:43:00 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=5954 When it comes to our planet, there are so many…

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When it comes to our planet, there are so many beautiful places that blow our minds and are a privilege to see. One of the most special places—and something which a lot of people plan to see—is the Aurora Borealis. However, planning a trip to see the northern lights can be slightly daunting.

The northern lights are a phenomenon visible only during the winter every year and this show occurs when particles from the sun crash into particles in our atmosphere, giving off energy as colored light. They are unpredictable and can be easily missed.

If you want to see this stunning spectacle this year or next, here are 15 things you need to consider when planning a trip to see the northern lights.

1. Timing

It is incredibly important to time your trip right if you plan to see the northern lights, and there are certain times of the year where the lights won’t show up like they do in others.

The winter season from November to February has to be the best time to see Aurora Borealis because the nights are much longer. This gives you more time to see the lights dancing in the sky before the sun comes up.

Despite common belief, coldness has nothing to do with seeing the Aurora Borealis. People only suggest winter because that is when it is darker longer.

2. Choose The Right Countries

Planning A Trip To See The Northern Lights Guide
Westfjords Region, Iceland

Deciding where to see the northern lights could be a make or break decision in successfully seeing them. This is because some locations are better than others for seeing the northern lights. Some simply have more dramatic light displays while also being in areas where they happen more frequently.

These best places include Iceland (e.g.  Reykjavik), Greenland (e.g. Kangerlussuaq), Russia (e.g. Murmansk), Norway (e.g. Tromsø), Finland (e.g. Rovaniemi), Sweden (e.g. Abisko), Alaska (e.g. Elim), and many parts of Canada (e.g. Yellowknife, Northern Saskatchewan, Torngat Mountains National Park, etc.)

More on this topic here.

3. Check The Forecast

Like other activities such as surfing, there is a northern lights forecast available which predicts how active the northern lights will be each and every day. Before you head out it is a good idea for you to have a look at this forecast to see if you will be in for a good show or not.

Ideally, you will want the number on the scale to be Kp=3 or higher for the best chance of a great light show when the sun goes down.

4. Stay Around 5 Days

If you really want to see the northern lights, it’d be a good idea to stay in the area for around 5 days to increase your chances of seeing them.

Often the northern lights will appear for up to 3 nights in a row and then not show for a number of days, thus staying around 5 days increases your chances of seeing them in case you happen to arrive on an off-day.

5. Plan For Winter

Planning A Trip To See The Northern Lights Guide
Sauðárkrókur, Iceland

Because the northern lights are much more visible during the winter months of the year, it is important to take the time to plan your trip and be ready for the cold weather.

It is always a good idea to check the sunrise and sunset times if you are planning a self-drive tour of the lights because driving at night in a snowy country can be pretty dangerous.

6. Self-drive?

One of the decisions you will want to make for yourself when you choose to go and see the northern lights is whether you will find a dedicated Northern Lights tour operator to join for the trip, or if you will instead simply drive yourself to the spot where you think you’ll be able to see the lights best.

It is totally a matter of personal preference and you can always think of different ways to make the most of your own northern lights trip. Of course, if you do choose a tour guide they will know the best spot to see the lights, but it is still up to you if you would rather go it alone.

If you do choose a northern lights tour, Bubble Tour and Blue Lagoon can be a good place to stay.

7. Book Ahead Of Time

If you’re traveling with someone else, then you’ll want to make sure that you get the best chance to see the northern lights together by booking your stay ahead of time.

It is always super important for you to take the time to book your holiday ahead since it will allow you to take more time to prepare for the trip, as well as ensure that you can save yourself some money on the tickets.

8. Check The Weather

The weather when you are about to go away will have a massive impact on the trip you have and your ability to see the northern lights. It stands to reason that if the sky is covered in cloud or it is raining that you won’t be able to see the lights very well, if at all, and this can be a huge annoyance.

Try to pick a day which will be clear and this will give you the best opportunity to enjoy the lights in all of their glory.

9. Expect Different Colors

Planning A Trip To See The Northern Lights Guide
Eagle River Nature Center, Anchorage, US

The northern lights can appear in a spectrum of colors, including grays. Which means that if there are clouds in the sky, it may be hard to spot the lights if they show up as gray.

Although green is the common color, don’t be surprised to see a few others too. Now you know what to look out for!

10. Face North

Ok, so you’re already in the northern part of the world, so why bother facing north? Can’t the lights just start anywhere if you’re already north? Not necessarily.

You’re more likely to see the northern lights if you’re facing north. So, since you’ve already traveled a long way north to get there, why not just face north too?

11. Bring Snacks, Lots Of Snacks

The day will be long for you if you decide to take a walking tour of the lights through the mountains. Because of this, it is super important for you to bring along some food and some drinks to keep you healthy and energized for the hike.

When you set off for a hike you can always think about something which is high in sugar such as a Kendal mint cake or something which has a lot of protein such as a nutbar. Also, make sure you drink water in small increments to keep you hydrated but to stop you needing the restroom every few minutes.

12. Layer Up

Planning A Trip To See The Northern Lights Guide

The day and nights are going to be incredibly cold for you when you head off for your trip, and because of this, you’ll need to make sure that you bring lots of layers with you for the trip. It is a good idea for you to visit an outdoor clothing store to gather up things such as sturdy boots and socks, thermal under layers and thick pants and coats for the walk.

Don’t forget to bring items to cover your eyes and face because it can get pretty freezing in these northern countries.

13. Prepare For Walking

It is always a good idea to get away from light pollution when seeing the northern lights, and so you may need to trek a few miles away from cities to best see them.

If you haven’t walked for a while and you want to go and see the northern lights, it’d be best to practice a little bit before going. Walking in your local area and in the mountains in your own home country is a good way to get used to the idea of walking and to build up your stamina a little too.

14. Take A Camera

This one should be a no-brainer when planning a trip to see the northern lights, but don’t forget to bring a camera and a tripod! You’ll want to capture and treasure this sight forever.

Be sure to set your camera to long exposure capture to take the best shots.

15. Go For The Destination As Well As The Lights

The northern lights can be unpredictable, sometimes the aurora forecast can be at a Kp=4, but you’ll still not see anything. Moreover, sometimes you won’t even see the northern lights at all. If you were to just plan a trip to see the northern lights and that was all, this would be a huge disappointment!

To lower the potential disappointment factor, make sure the country you’re visiting to see the lights is also one you’re interested in.

Without sounding too pessimistic, plan a bulletproof holiday itinerary that doesn’t include seeing the northern lights so that, if the worst were to happen, you’d still have a good time and wouldn’t feel too short-changed.


If you’re in the middle of planning a trip to see the northern lights, we hope these 15 tips were helpful for you. Let us know how you get on and share more tips below!

Suggested next reading: 6 Best Places In The World To See The Northern Lights

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10 Of The Most Beautiful Places In The World To Visit https://moderntrekker.com/the-most-beautiful-places-in-the-world-to-visit/ https://moderntrekker.com/the-most-beautiful-places-in-the-world-to-visit/#respond Fri, 18 Jan 2019 17:41:54 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=5515 Beauty, so they say, is in the eye of the…

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Beauty, so they say, is in the eye of the beholder and while this is true, it is also fair to say that certain places and things are universally considered to be beautiful. With this brand-new year freshly unpackaged and underway, why not get out there and experience the most beautiful places in the world to visit?

It’s a big, wide world out that there and it’s full of some of the most beautiful sights that you can imagine. Make sure that you get the most out of your year wherever you go. If you need a little inspiration, here are the 10 most beautiful places in the world that actually exist!

The Most Beautiful Places In The World To Visit Are:

  1. Petra, Jordan
  2. Keukenhof, Holland
  3. Svalbard, Norway
  4. Niagara Falls, Canada/USA
  5. Swiss Alps, Switzerland
  6. Highlands, Scotland
  7. Venice, Italy
  8. Sunset Beach, Hawaii
  9. Ayers Rock, Australia
  10. The Grand Canyon, USA
The Most Beautiful Places In The World To Visit

1. Petra, Jordan

The Most Beautiful Places In The World To Visit

Originally known to the people that lived there as Raqmu, this ancient and stunning city is actually carved into the rose-colored rock that makes up the walls of a valley. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987 and was named as one of the “New7Wonders of the World”.

A truly awe-inspiring place and uniquely beautiful in its structures and craftsmanship, Petra is a remarkable place to visit and truly worth seeing.

2. Keukenhof, Holland

The Most Beautiful Places In The World To Visit

Between the middle of March and May tulip season arrives in Holland and Keukenhof is probably the place to see these beautiful flowers in all their glory.

Known as Europe’s garden, you will be in for a feast for the eyes whatever time of year you visit but try to go in the springtime to see field upon field of these joyful flowers.

The Most Beautiful Places In The World To Visit

3. Svalbard, Norway

The Most Beautiful Places In The World To Visit

Svalbard is a group of islands at the very north of Norway and is the place to be if you want to catch a display of the Aurora Borealis. The Northern Lights as they are often called are stunning, natural displays of light that can be seen in high latitude areas.

Auroras are caused when the magnetosphere is disrupted by the solar wind and—well, it’s complicated science stuff, but it’s absolutely glorious and you will not forget it!

4. Niagara Falls, Canada / USA

The Most Beautiful Places In The World To Visit

Straddling the international border between Canada and the USA, Niagara Falls is a spectacular group of three waterfalls.

Big, wet and wild, people have done such mad things as going over the edge of them in a barrel! Although this is not a recommended activity, you can go on a boat around the base of the falls. Take your coat and your camera!

5. Swiss Alps, Switzerland

The Most Beautiful Places In The World To Visit

Who doesn’t love a good mountain? The famous Swiss Alps is one of the most impressive mountain ranges to be found on planet earth and definitely the biggest and highest in Europe.

If you like skiing then you are in for a treat, if you don’t like skiing, you are still in for a treat. There are lots of cool places to stay around here and it is a must see for those who like their peaks spectacular.

6. Highlands, Scotland

The Most Beautiful Places In The World To Visit

Whilst they aren’t quite as big as the Alps (but few things are!) The Scottish Highlands maintain a rugged beauty that is all its own.

If wild, unkempt nature is your bag, then head to bonny Scotland and check out some of the most evocative landscapes that you will ever see.

7. Venice, Italy

The Most Beautiful Places In The World To Visit

This unique and infinitely photogenic city actually consists of a group of 118 small islands that are separated by canals and waterways and connected by over 400 bridges.

World famous for its beautiful architecture and artworks, prepare yourself for a city break unlike any other.

8. Sunset Beach, Hawaii

The Most Beautiful Places In The World To Visit

Situated on the north shore of the island of Hawaii, Pūpūkea’s Sunset Beach is a famous surfing spot renowned for its big waves.

This two-mile stretch of golden sand is also, as its name suggests, famed for its picturesque sunsets. Sun, sea and sand is a timeless combination and this is one of the finest that the world has to offer.

9. Ayers Rock, Australia

The Most Beautiful Places In The World To Visit

Its proper name is Uluru but most will know this giant sandstone formation as Ayers Rock.

It is one of the most iconic natural landmarks in the world and famous for appearing to change color at different times of year and day. This is most apparent when it glows a very photogenic red at dawn and dusk.

This is probably one of the best spots in the world to catch a good sunrise or sunset!

10. The Grand Canyon, USA

The Most Beautiful Places In The World To Visit

Continuing with the theme of impressive rocks for a moment. The world-famous Grand Canyon is an American icon. The sheer size and scale of this giant gash in the earth is breathtaking.

At 277 miles long, a mile deep and in places, 18 miles wide, this spectacular natural wonder has fascinated tourists for years. Go and see it and be amazed!


So, there we have it, our top 10 most beautiful places in the world to visit! Hopefully you’ve taken some inspiration from it. Go and enjoy 2019 and treat your senses to some of the most beautiful places in the world!

Suggested next reading: 10 Of The Most Beautiful Places To Visit In Norway

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The One Breathtaking Park In Canada You Need To Visit Immediately https://moderntrekker.com/la-mauricie/ https://moderntrekker.com/la-mauricie/#respond Wed, 16 Jan 2019 08:00:03 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=4089 When you think of Canada’s province of Québec what do…

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When you think of Canada’s province of Québec what do you imagine? Sure, you might think of Montréal’s bustling nightlife or Québec City’s charming old town, but few that have not been around the region, realize how beautiful Québec truly is. There is a reason that Canada’s French-speaking province is known as, “La Belle Province”. From stunning river views to sweeping fjords to the beginning of the Boreal Forest, Québec has enough nature to explore for a whole lifetime. While many other regions such as Saguenay and Gaspésie get media attention for their beauty (and for good reason!), there is one area in the middle of Québec that is often forgotten about. While it used to be known as a logging area and was used for that purpose up until as recently as 1996, Canada has made a big push for preservation. Today, it is known for its natural beauty. At the heart of the region, located in between Montréal and Québec City, lies La Mauricie, a Canadian National Park. About an hour north of Trois Riviere (Three Rivers), La Mauricie is very remote and is a great place to escape city life to see incredible fall foliage. It has over 150 lakes, ponds, and rivers that are waiting to be explored. Here are 3 reasons La Mauricie might be Canada’s most underrated National Park:

Activities

Rovaniemi — Countries To Visit This Fall

The amount of activities you can do at La Mauricie is incredible. No matter the season, there are always things to do. One of the things I very much appreciate about Canadians is that they get excited for winter just like most embrace the start of summer! In winter, you can ski, fat bike, ice-climb, fish, and my personal favorite, dog sledding. The best part of the experience is meeting your crew of huskies! They are very friendly! You can either sit back and enjoy the ride or get right into the mix and drive the sled yourself. Either way, it is a great introduction to what Canada is all about. As the weather starts to get warmer, La Mauricie is known for canoe camping. The park does not allow motorized boats in the water so it is probably the cleanest water you’ll ever touch. The park is made up of various islands so you can spend a weekend or more going from spot to spot and enjoying the great outdoors. Whatever you are looking for, La Mauricie has it and then some.

Hiking

La Mauricie National Park

The hikes within La Mauricie are so spectacular that it deserves its very own category. You simply cannot come to La Mauricie without doing at least one hike. There are plenty of hikes to choose from for all levels. No matter if you want to test your hiking skills or just take a leisurely stroll through the forest. In my opinion, there are a few trails worth exploring. Voted one of the best trails in Québec by Explore Magazine, Les Deux Criques is a 15.3 kilometers (9.5 miles) trail for advanced hikers. The trail’s views are stunning especially in fall when all of the leaves start turning colors and the forest is filled with shades of orange and red. You’ll pass by lakes, waterfalls, but you will be hiking up a hill for a good portion of it so be ready with hiking boots.

Another trail that is absolutely worth checking out is called Les Cascades. This trail is more for leisure hikers and is best to go in the summer. Its big highlight is the waterfall at the end of the hike. Think about it as a reward for your efforts! It’s a fantastic place for a late afternoon picnic and since the water is fresh, it’s a great spot to take a refreshing dip in the water and then dry off on the rocks. Speaking of waterfalls, if you are feeling adventurous and do end up renting a canoe, you can make the journey over to Waber Falls. I’d recommend getting a canoe for the whole entire day because it is impossible to canoe and enjoy the waterfalls in a 4-hour timespan. Whichever trail(s) you end up choosing at La Mauricie, you will be greeted with stunning views. Another bonus is that, since the park is not on most people’s travel radars, it’s less crowded than other national parks in the province and across Canada.

Camping

Camping in La Mauricie National Park

As previously mentioned, canoe camping is one of the best summer activities that you can do in the park. That being said, there are a plethora of options to choose from. As I’ve done quite a bit of camping in the park, I feel like I can give you a solid rundown of what spots are worth checking out. First off, if you only have time for one area, I highly recommend heading directly to the Wapizagonke area. It is home to some of the best camping spots in the whole park. There’s no better way to wake up than looking out over the lake and breathing in the fresh air! Be sure to get up early at sunrise and go canoe around the lake. You’ll be by yourself in nature as the fog lifts and the sun rises. It is a magical experience! For those that truly want to have a Canadian experience, you can even camp in the winter in this section.

Of course, if you do not want to do canoe camping, you can still do any traditional camping. If you are a visitor and do not have any camping equipment, have no fear! Parks Canada recently built all new lodging called oTENTik. They are small wood lodges that can accommodate up to 6 people and come fully equipped for an authentic camping experience. There are over 400 across the whole entire national park system with over 20 in La Mauricie that can be rented by the night. Whether it be canoe or traditional camping, you’ll be able to share some incredible photos with your friends and soon they will be wanting to come see La Belle Province!

Suggested next reading: 7 Stunning Locations You Need To Experience In Canada

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6 Most Underrated European Countries To Visit https://moderntrekker.com/most-underrated-european-countries/ https://moderntrekker.com/most-underrated-european-countries/#comments Fri, 11 Jan 2019 20:24:13 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=5482 As a Brit, I know Europe represents something of a…

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As a Brit, I know Europe represents something of a dream destination for many North Americans. I’m aware that it often takes years of saving and planning to even get here, and often you can end up feeling like you’ve not seen as much of it as you’d like.

Don’t worry, we feel the same way about you guys!

Even for those of us who have continental Europe on our doorsteps, there’s so much to discover that we all end up feeling the same way. Europe is littered with spots that have all the charm of the major destinations but without the major crowds and inflated prices.

So, which countries are best to visit in Europe? If you want to get a bit off-the-beaten-path and get a little more bang for your buck then here are the 6 most underrated European countries to visit!

The Most Underrated European Countries To Visit Are:

Name Why?
1. Slovenia Lots of charm and beauty at a low cost.
2. Bosnia & Herzegovina A fascinating history, and possesses a great hopeful spirit.
3. Albania Colorful and vibrant streets, and wonderful beaches.
4. Montenegro Incredible scenery.
5. Romania Awesome castles and architecture.
6. Kaliningrad A fascinating mix of Western and Eastern European culture.
Most Underrated European Countries

Let’s now discuss each of these underrated countries in Europe to visit!

1. Slovenia

Nestled between Italy, Austria and Croatia, little Slovenia has all the charm of its bigger brothers but at a fraction of the cost. Ljubljana, the capital, boasts an imposing castle, a charming Old Town, and a scenic river, all of which make it an ideal city to explore on foot.

The coastal town of Piran is another tourist draw, thanks to its stunning architecture and laid-back feel. It’s everything you’d want from Venice or Dubrovnik, but without the overcrowding and expense. The reef just off-shore is also an excellent place to spot seahorses if you’re lucky.

Piran, Slovenia
Piran, Slovenia. (Photographer: Neil Thompson)

Away from the towns, Slovenia is a mountain country with stunning alpine landscapes in abundance. The fossils, karsts and canyons of Skocjan and Postojna caves should definitely be on your list if you’re heading here, as should a trip to Vintgar Gorge.

For many, though, the country’s most photogenic spot is undoubtedly Lake Bled. A castle on a hilltop; a church on an island; the whole thing surrounded by forests and mountains; it’s the archetypal European fairy-tale landscape.

Bled, Slovenia
Bled, Slovenia. (Photographer: Guido Sorarù)

2. Bosnia & Herzegovina

Višegrad, Bosnia & Herzegovina
Višegrad, Bosnia & Herzegovina.

Bosnia and Herzegovina has endured some difficult times in the recent past, but its fascinating history and beautiful scenery mean that its well-and-truly one of the most interesting places to visit in Europe.

The bullet marks still riddling the buildings in Sarajevo’s “Sniper Alley”—once the most dangerous street in the world—are haunting reminders of the conflict that left this city besieged for almost four years. The site of Archduke Franz Ferdinand’s assassination, the event that triggered World War I, can also be found here. It’s well worth hiring a local guide, therefore, to understand the capital’s turbulent past.

But Bosnia and Herzegovina is a defiant country. Bruised but not beaten, it has repaired much of the damage that was done during the war and looks forward to a bright future. There is perhaps no better example of this than the bridge at Mostar. Destroyed by Croatian armed forces in 1993, the bridge has been rebuilt and is once again the centerpiece of this charming town. In the summer the city’s young people jump joyfully from the bridge into the river below.

Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina
Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina. (Photographer: Jocelyn Erskine-Kellie)

3. Albania

It’s probably fair to say that Albania might not have always received the best press in the past. Ask most people what they imagine when they think of the country and they’ll picture a drab, grey sort of place.

However, take a walk through the city streets of Tirana and you’ll see that nothing could be further from the truth. The vibrant paintwork that now adorns the capital’s offices and apartments is not merely cosmetic, it is symbolic. These colorful streets show the world that Albania is opening up and is eager to show off its many charms.

Multi-Coloured Houses in Tiranë, Albania
Multi-colored houses in Tirana, Albania. (Photographer: Tony Bowden)

Among these are Albania’s many beautiful beaches, the best of which can be found near the town of Dhermi. Albania has striking landscapes, too. The “blue hole”, a natural spring in Albania’s Delvine District, is one picture-perfect example, as are the hot springs at Benja. The ancient town of Berat, known as the “City of a Thousand Windows”, is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a perfect introduction to Albania’s old-world charm.

Berat, Albania
Berat, Albania. (Photographer: gailhampshire)

Of course, there are plenty of reminders Albania’s crippling Communist regime scattered around the country, too. The pyramid dedicated to Head of State, Enver Hoxha, in Tirana, may have fallen into disrepair but thankfully the building itself still stands. It’s now possible to walk up the sides of the building for views out over Tirana.

Viosa, Albania
This is located in south Albania, isn’t it amazing?

4. Montenegro

Montenegro is an underrated European country brimming with incredible scenery and charming old towns, and all hemmed in between the mountains and the sea.

Perhaps the country’s defining geological feature is the Tara Canyon, a river gorge so deep it is surpassed only by the Grand Canyon. The best way to appreciate the canyon is undoubtedly by organizing a rafting tour over the river rapids, but if all that sounds a bit too energetic, make for Djurdjevica Bridge, a vantage point with breath-taking views along the canyon.

Montenegro
Photographer: Jasmine Halki

The UNESCO World Heritage site of Kotor, with its Romanesque churches and winding avenues, is perhaps the most picturesque Old Town in Montenegro. The coastal settlement of Budva runs it a close second, however, and both should be right at the top of your itinerary.

If a trip to the beach is on the agenda then head to Sveti Stefan, a medieval town turned luxury resort on a tiny island in the Adriatic.

Sveti Stefan, Montenegro
Sveti Stefan, Montenegro. Photographer: Hotice Hsu

5. Romania

Everyone knows Europe has a bunch of awesome castles, but perhaps not that many know some of the best can be found in Romania.

Peles Castle, the former Royal Residence, is so picturesque it’s bordering on kitsch. Corvin Castle is a grand mammoth of a thing. The most famous, Bran Castle, is where Vlad the Impaler was once imprisoned and served as the inspiration for Count Dracula’s dwelling-place in the Bram Stoker novel.

Actually, it turns out neither of these legends might really be true, but they do lend a luster of mystique to a castle already impressive enough in its own right. All of the places to see in Europe if you’re a castle nerd, Romania must top that list!

Peles Castle, Romania
Peleș Castle.

In fact, Romania is pretty much a dream for lovers of architecture, too. The Constanta Casino is surely one of the world’s most opulent abandoned buildings; the gigantic Presidential Palace in Bucharest will have you straining your neck to take it all in; the tottering Densus Church is one of the oldest and most quaint in all Europe.

When you throw in a sci-fi theme park in the depths of a salt mine and the incredibly low cost of living, it’s hard to imagine why Romania remains so much under the radar.

The Constanta Casino, Romania
The Constanta Casino. Photographer: Nicolas Vollmer

6. Kaliningrad (Russia)

Under the second flyover bridge in Kaliningrad
Under a bridge in Kaliningrad. Photographer: Zaytsev Artem

Kaliningrad is not a country in its own right but rather a tiny Russian exclave on the Baltic Sea. However, for most of its history it was part of Poland and Germany, and used to be known as Königsberg before being annexed to Russia, after World War II.

Its fascinating mix of Western and Eastern Europe architectural styles and cultural practices make it one of those must see places in Europe before you die.

Königsberg Cathedral, Russia
Königsberg Cathedral.

Königsberg Cathedral is at the heart of public life here and had to be completely rebuilt in the 1990s after being badly damaged during World War II. Immanuel Kant, the city’s most famous inhabitant is buried in a small tomb here, so if Groundwork on the Metaphysic of Morals is your favorite bed-time read then you need to:

  1. Visit.
  2. Find better ways to relax!

The Curonian Spit, with its famous “dancing trees”, might help you do just that.


So that’s our list of the most underrated European countries, but it’s not definitive—we haven’t mentioned Latvia, Lithuania, Moldova, Macedonia or Armenia. In fact, there’s a host of countries that could easily have made our list, so if you have any recommendations then do let us know in the comments.

Suggested next reading: 15 Astonishing Mountain Towns In Europe Worth Visiting

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5 Brilliant Reasons To Visit The Thai Islands https://moderntrekker.com/thai-islands/ https://moderntrekker.com/thai-islands/#comments Mon, 31 Dec 2018 08:00:20 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=4318 When I first laid eyes on the Thai islands iconic…

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When I first laid eyes on the Thai islands iconic longtail boats, I felt like I’d finally arrived in the Southeast Asian country of my dreams.

From where I sat on the white sand beach of Tonsai Bay, the enormous blue sky above was reflected in the clear turquoise water below, punctuated by towering limestone crags. Behind me sat bamboo bungalows, karst cliffs, and dense rainforest, the area being a popular destination for backpackers and rock climbers. It was my first stop in the Thai islands and I couldn’t wait to see more.

Long Tails on the Thai Islands
The iconic longtail boats. | Reasons To Visit The Thai Islands
Rock Climbing on the Thai Islands
Rock climbing is popular here.Reasons To Visit The Thai Islands

While Tonsai Beach is technically part of the mainland, hundreds of islands dot the Andaman Sea and Gulf of Thailand along the Southern coast of this Southeast Asian hotspot.

Some of the larger islands are more well-known, like Koh Phi Phi’s Maya Bay made famous by the Hollywood hit film The Beach. Other islands fly under the radar, like Koh Muk, Koh Chang, and Koh Yao Yai. (Koh is the Thai word for “island.”)

While some destinations are overrun with tourists and only cater to those on luxury vacations, there’s no lack of options when it comes to the Thai islands—no matter which one you choose, they all resemble paradise.

There are endless places to visit in Thailand—Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Pai, Surat Thani—but the islands are not to be missed. Here are five reasons to visit them now:

1. The iconic beaches

Beach in the Thai Islands
Just your average beach… | Reasons To Visit The Thai Islands

You know the photos you see in travel magazines with white sand beaches, crystal clear water, leafy palm trees, and luxurious beachfront hotels? That’s Thailand. The beaches truly can’t be beaten.

With hundreds of islands, you could never tire from all the different ones to explore—you can experience bright colorful reefs on Koh Tao, bring the family on a holiday to Koh Samui, or chill at a reggae bar on Koh Lipe. Just make sure you don’t choose the wrong beach—some are definitely for partying, some are for peace and quiet.

Some beaches even have hidden lagoons or caves! Do a little research beforehand, or embrace a sense of adventure and see what you stumble upon.

2. The affordability

Sure, plenty of other places offer islands and beaches that are just as picturesque as the Thai islands, but are they quite as affordable? Part of Thailand’s appeal is how incredibly inexpensive it is.

While the Thai islands are definitely more pricey than the rest of Thailand and other Southeast Asian countries, they still offer a great deal. If backpacker hostels are your jam, you’ll only shell out about $11-$15 (USD) per night. Mid-range hotels can cost you about $50 per night, while a 5-star resort will still only set you back about $125 per night.

The ridiculously cheap Thai food also happens to be incredibly delicious, and alcoholic drinks are usually less than $6. (Mojito, anyone?) Combined with reasonable airfare from major international airports, the Thai islands are a perfect choice for those looking to rein in their vacation spending without compromising on luxury.

3. Diving and snorkeling

Diving in the Thai Islands
Koh Tao, Koh Lanta, and Khao Lak are some of the best places for underwater adventures. | Reasons To Visit The Thai Islands

Thailand has some of the best snorkeling and scuba diving in the world, hands down. Visitors flock to the islands to get scuba certification and experience mesmerizing reefs, deep drop-offs, wrecks, walls, caverns, and tunnels. (The affordability of getting certified in Southeast Asia also draws in many looking to get certified.)

Adventurers can expect to see whale sharks, manta rays, leopard sharks, and more, and even if you’re on the cautious side and stick to the shallow reefs, you can still experience a colorful paradise that will make you feel like you’ve landed in a scene from Finding Nemo.

While all the islands boast beautiful spots, some of the best snorkeling and diving can be found on Koh Tao, Koh Lanta, and Khao Lak.

Diving in the Thai Islands
Thailand really is great for snorkeling too. | Reasons To Visit The Thai Islands

4, The sunsets

Thai Islands
This won’t get old fast! | Reasons To Visit The Thai Islands

If the beaches, the affordability, and the underwater beauty don’t sway you, maybe the sunsets will.

With gorgeous geological backdrops no matter where you go, Thai islands are the perfect places to relax on the beach with a drink in hand and watch the sun go down. Choose a fancy resort or local beach bar, and you’ll join throngs of travelers reveling in the evening light, often with appetizer specials and happy hour drinks.

No matter the level of fanciness you choose, the vibrant sky won’t disappoint. Head to the Western side of any island for a memorable night.

5. The ability to party and/or relax

No two Thai islands are the same, and some are actually incredibly different. These differences are what make the islands appeal to everyone, and offer something for every traveler.

Want to experience a Full Moon Party, the notorious all-night beach parties? Head to Haad Rin beach on Koh Phangan. (Half Moon parties exist, too.)

Looking for a quiet escape on a peaceful beach where you can relax on a beach lounge and sip from an ice cold coconut? Try Koh Samui or Koh Yao Noi.

Want the quintessential Thai experience with colorful longtail boats, friendly fishermen, and looming limestone cliffs? Railay Beach is what you’re looking for. (Not technically an island, but still a beautiful beach in the South.)

There’s truly something for everyone in Thailand.

Getting there

The Thai islands are easy to add to your must-see list. Fly into Bangkok from any major airport for the best price, and then take a smaller plane to Krabi or Phuket—these flights are usually less than $50. (Koh Samui is an option too, though considerably more expensive.) From there, ferries are available to nearby islands.

Be sure to check out the weather before booking tickets, though—rainy season is roughly from May to October.


The choices can be overwhelming, but don’t worry—no matter which island you choose, you’ll end up in paradise.

Suggested next reading: How To Eat Your Way Through Southeast Asia Like A Pro

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12 Winter Wonderlands You Need To Visit This Year https://moderntrekker.com/winter-wonderlands-to-visit/ https://moderntrekker.com/winter-wonderlands-to-visit/#respond Mon, 24 Dec 2018 08:00:56 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=4735 A winter trip is a great way to get the…

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A winter trip is a great way to get the most out of this magical time of the year. While most of your friends are left indoors watching Netflix series twice over, you can wrap up warm and fully immerse yourself into pure winter bliss. There is so much beauty to see!

If that sounds like a good plan to you, then here are 12 truly amazing winter wonderlands to visit this year. Are you ready? Let’s get started!

1. Český Krumlov (Czech Republic)

Cesky Krumlov is a city of just over 13,000 inhabitants that is bisected by the Vltava river. The city is well known for its architectural heritage, and in particular for the beautiful old town (declared World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1992) and for the castle of medieval origin. Historically, the construction of the city dates back to the end of the 13th Century.

Český Krumlov, Winter Wonderlands To Visit
The Vltava river is the longest river within the Czech Republic. | Best Winter Wonderlands To Visit
Český Krumlov, Winter Wonderlands To Visit
Český Krumlov looks extra gorgeous covered in snow. | Best Winter Wonderlands To Visit

This would be one of the best winter wonderlands to visit. Imagine all the old stonework buildings covered in snow!

2. Shirakawa-go (Japan)

The main reason for the sloping roofs and the massive structure of the farmhouses of Shirakawago is the large amount of snow that falls every winter.

One of the 3 villages within Shirakawa-go, Ogimachi village, is typically covered by 1-2 meters of snow during peak season and is a must-see. While slightly impractical for the locals, the snow turns Shirakawago into an idyllic winter landscape.

To make it even better, there are special lighting events that take place on some Saturday and Sunday evenings throughout January and February.

Shirakawa-go, Winter Wonderlands To Visit
Shirakawa-go looks so idyllic in a blanket of snow. | Best Winter Wonderlands To Visit

3. Ilulissat (Greenland)

The fiord of Ilulissat is famous all over the world for a very special feature. Its inlet generates an impressively large number of icebergs, so much so as to define the city of Ilulissat as the city of the icebergs.

Ilulissat, Winter Wonderlands To Visit
More floating ice islands are formed in Ilulissat than anywhere else in the northern hemisphere. | Best Winter Wonderlands To Visit

4. Multnomah Falls (Oregon, USA)

At about 187 meters high, Multnomah falls are divided into two drops between which a bridge was built in 1914. Ths bridge, the Benson bridge, allows hikers to complete the path up to the top.

The drop of the cascading waters that eventually converge in Columbia is the highest of waterfall drops in Oregon and the second in all the States.

Multnomah Falls, Winter Wonderlands To Visit
Every year two million visitors visit Multnomah Falls, making it the most-visited nature site in all the Pacific Northwest. | Best Winter Wonderlands To Visit

5. Harbin (China)

The average daily temperature in Harbin during winter is −3.5 °F / −19.7 °C.  Harbin is nicknamed the “Ice City” for that reason!

The Harbin International Ice and Snow Sculpture Festival will begin on 5th January and will feature impressive ice sculptures that turn Harbin into a true winter wonderland.

Harbin, Winter Wonderlands To Visit
The Harbin International Ice and Snow Festival is one of the largest snow festivals in the world.  | Best Winter Wonderlands To Visit

6. Central Park (New York City, USA)

When the cold has arrived and a blanket of snow covers New York, Central Park is at its most dazzling. Just take a walk through the park and see the snow-covered trees and you’ll feel like you’ve left New York altogether.

During the winter months, there are some special events that take place too. Starting at the end of October, two skating rinks are opened in the park every year.

In the north of the park, there is the Lasker skating rink which overlooks Harlem Meer. In the south of Central Park is the Wollman skating rink. This track is the most famous of the two, as it is located near the center of Manhattan and offers a great view of the skyscrapers of Midtown.

Central Park, Winter Wonderlands To Visit
The Wollman skating rink. | Best Winter Wonderlands To Visit
Central Park, Winter Wonderlands To Visit
Central Park is a sight to behold covered in snow.  | Best Winter Wonderlands To Visit

7. Blue Pond (Hokkaido, Japan)

Blue Pond is a small, beautiful lake on the island of Hokkaido, Japan. An interesting and enchanting place, Blue Pond changes color depending on the season and time of day.

Its shade of blue can vary from turquoise to blue, up to an emerald green color. These colors can sometimes look almost unreal as they change according to light reflections and the weather.

The trees reflected in the water give the place a particularly exciting feel, especially in winter, when the blue of the lake comes into conflict with the white of the snow deposited on the many branches hanging mid-air.

Blue Pond in Hokkaido, Winter Wonderlands To Visit
Blue Pond, a manmade site, was created after the eruption of Mount Tokachi in 1988 in order to keep the town of Biei safe from dangerous mudflow. | Best Winter Wonderlands To Visit

8. North Vancouver (Canada)

You simply have to visit North Vancouver in the winter if you’re a snow sports enthusiasts. Mountains have ski tracks for every level and they are open late for some amazing and even romantic night skiing.

Winter activities in North Vancouver include downhill and Nordic skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing, tubing and tobogganing.

North Vancouver, Winter Wonderlands To Visit
Cleveland Dam | Best Winter Wonderlands To Visit

9. Tschamut (Switzerland)

Tschamut is pure heaven for snow lovers! Even if it’s well known for being a great summer and winter destination, Tschamut has a unique look during wintertime.

Skiing is the main activity to do here and is probably the best way to soak up all those amazing winter wonderland views!

10. Ekero (Sweden)

If you are looking for a romantic winter escape, Ekero is easily one of the most romantic winter wonderlands to visit.

The nature surrounding Ekero is pure magic during winter with white woods and astonishing views to marvel at, especially during sunset and sunrise.

11. Dolomites (Italy)

Alta Badia, a valley in South Tyrol characterized by gentle slopes, from which stand out the imposing peaks of the Dolomites, is known as the heart of the Dolomites.

The Dolomites, which frame the Alta Badia, make it one of the most enchanting locations in South Tyrol and the Alps, and, since 2009, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Dolomites, Winter Wonderlands To Visit
The Dolomites major peak is Marmolada which stands 10,968 feet tall. | Best Winter Wonderlands To Visit

12. Santa Fe (New Mexico, USA)

During winter time, Santa Fe dresses up in a unique way offering many local activities, festivals and many historically inspired feasts to celebrate the winter season and the city’s Native American roots.

Despite being one of the best places to chill and relax while fully immersing yourself in some serious winter wonderland views, skiing is one of the main activities to do here. So there’s a bit of something for everyone!

So here they are, 12 winter wonderlands to visit that will give you even more reason to love the most magical time of the year! Know of any more winter wonderlands? Feel free to comment below.

Suggested next reading: 6 Best Places In The World To See The Northern Lights

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China’s Li River Valley: Better Than Heaven? https://moderntrekker.com/guilin/ https://moderntrekker.com/guilin/#respond Wed, 19 Dec 2018 13:00:39 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=3176   The people of Guanxi Province, in Southern China, have…

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The people of Guanxi Province, in Southern China, have an expression: “I would rather live in Guilin”, they say, “than in heaven”.

 

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Even if you haven’t heard of Guilin until now, there’s a chance you already know a little bit about it. Close your eyes and try to imagine rural China. Are you picturing misty peaks towering above lazy rivers? Cormorants fishing in the twilight? Rice terraces glittering in the sunshine?

Well, you’re really thinking about Guilin.

I was lucky enough to be able to spend two weeks there recently, as part of a longer trip around China. I have always been enchanted by that landscape—mostly from watching nature documentaries as a kid—and for the longest time I’ve wanted to just sit down in those hills and imagine for one fleeting moment that I’m part of that life.

But I also hoped that my time there would reveal something of the local history, culture, and the reality of day-to-day life in this remarkable environment.

I’m not sure how fully I succeeded at that objective, but I did get a small taste of both the reality and the daydream. I’ll try to share some of these experiences with you here, in the hope that it will persuade you to make a trip to this remarkable part of the world.

Arrival

As our plane comes into land, I glance out of the window. In the distance, wreathed in shadow, are the towering karsts that define this region. This is my first glimpse of a landscape we’ve traveled halfway across the world to see and I can’t wait to get out and explore.

These unique limestone structures are created when acids in rainwater slowly dissolve the bedrock, forming tiny cracks and fissures that deepen and expand over time. Eventually, this process culminates in the formation of sheer, isolated and well-defined peaks that rise sharply above the plains below.

There are many places in South East Asia where karst landforms can be seen, but they are arguably at their most spectacular in the area around Guilin.

 

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But before we could get to exploring, we first needed to find our hotel. Guilin doesn’t have a train line from the airport to the city, unfortunately, so instead we jumped in a taxi—an experience in itself. With just one hand on the wheel—the other left free to produce an endless supply of pumpkin seeds—our driver whisked us down the highway and through the city, deftly skirting pedestrians and other vehicles whilst having hurried conversations with his family on the phone.

If you’re a soft Westerner like me then this sort of thing can feel a little chaotic at times. In Guilin, people use megaphones and huge PA systems to try and tempt you into buying fruit. The marketplaces and restaurants are always packed to the rafters and booming with noise. The traffic doesn’t stop, even at crossings, so you just have to dive out into a sea of mopeds and trust the riders to skim around you.

Don’t worry, it’s not their first rodeo.

Motorbikes In Asia

But the longer you spend in here, the more you realize that there’s actually a sense of order and security underpinning what at first looks like chaos. More than that, the people seem to embody a sense of calmness in the chaos that you really come to admire.

For example, near misses on the roads, which would certainly provoke profanity or even violence in my hometown, here draw barely a second look. Restaurant and shop owners will try and tempt you to dine, but if you say no then you’re offered a smile and left alone, not hectored as you try and walk away, as is the case in some parts of the world.

In the evening the streets come alive with young people, but that doesn’t stop the middle-aged and elderly bringing out their stereos, whacking on the dancing shoes, and joining in the fun in the town’s many underpasses, alleyways, and any other forgotten corners.

So, how much can you tell about a place in just two weeks, especially when you don’t speak the language? Not much, I’d say. Just an impression really. Sometimes those impressions are well-founded, sometimes not.

But our impressions of Guilin were of a place that feels welcoming; a place where the locals genuinely seem happy. Every smile, every kind gesture, every stranger who offered us help—and there were many—they all just kept adding to the strength of this impression.

If Guilin is heaven, you’d expect this to show through in the people who live there. You’d expect those people, for the most part, to be happy, relaxed, tolerant and inclusive.

Well, they really were.

The City

Guilin is a low rise, medium-sized city with a compact, walkable center. At the heart of the town is Zhengyang Pedestrian Street, a busy row of shops, bars and restaurants which is also a great place to sample the excellent local delicacy of beer-cooked catfish.

Walk a little further down this street and you arrive at Guilin Central Square, a popular meeting place and venue for public festivals. A little further still and you’ll find yourself looking out over Shanhu Lake. This is where we ended up on our first night in Guilin, transfixed by the astounding Sun and Moon Pagoda and talking to a local English teacher and part-time tea farmer who had adopted the name “Barry”.

From Barry we learn that the two pagodas, despite being been modeled on two much older structures that stood in the same spot, back in the Tang Dynasty, are relatively recent additions to Guilin. These two modern towers, we learn, are connected by an underwater tunnel with a glass roof. It’s also possible to get views over the city from the tops of either.

Don’t bother with that nonsense, says Barry, just look at them.

And they are a sight to behold, especially lit up at night, their reflections dancing over the water. The Sun Tower seemed to me to express confidence and energy, the Moon Tower, serenity and grace. Maybe I was feeling the effect of a few beers but they seemed like fitting monuments to the chaos and the calm that is life in Guilin.

Sun and Moon Towers in Guilin
Photographer: Dennis Jarvis

I’ll be honest, we were already pretty sold on Barry by this point, but then, without prompting or bribing, he announced that he loved football and had always wanted to go to my hometown of Manchester (UK). Instantly recognizing Barry as a man of impeccable taste and virtue, I began to envision a life on the tea plantations as his adopted son. But I didn’t let on. I decided I would play the long game.

Instead, we followed Barry’s suggestion to head back to the Central Square at 8.30pm to see “the waterfall”. Neither I nor my partner really understood his meaning at the time, but he’d long since earned our trust, so we went there, and we waited…

Just as we were beginning to doubt Barry’s integrity, all of a sudden music starts blaring from some hidden speakers, the small crowd that had gathered begins to buzz with enthusiasm, and as if by magic, water starts cascading 50 feet down from the roof of a nearby hotel, streaming over the windows and gathering in fountains on the street.

Oh, Barry! We never doubted you for a minute.

The next day we explore the area across the road from Shanhu Lake and find “Elephant Trunk Hill”, another icon of the city. According to legend, this strange rock formation was created when a Divine Elephant—the steed of the Emperor of Heaven—was wounded in battle and fell to Earth in Guilin. After being nursed back to health by a kindly local couple, the Elephant was said to have fallen in love with Guilin and so opted never to return to its master.

“I would rather live in Guilin”, it said, “than in Heaven”.

And there it remains to this day.

 

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After a short but sweaty walk to the top of the Elephant’s back, I finally got the view of the karsts I had been hoping for, and it was breath-taking. I’m lucky to have done a fair amount of traveling in my time and I can honestly say it was one of the most beautiful landscapes I’ve ever seen.

I was beginning to think the Elephant might have had a point after all.

The Caves

Reed Flute Cave is the biggest and most spectacular cave complex in Guilin, arguably in China. Over the years it’s stunning features have been used by the Chinese government to impress all the great and good of world politics, as well as Richard Nixon.

Stepping into those vaulted ceilings it’s easy to see why the place is held in such high esteem. The variety of formations taken by the rock set the mind reeling; the intricacies of the patterns carved by natural forces inspire genuine awe. The use of rainbow-colored light displays, in my mind at least, only add to the ethereal quality of the place.

Reed Flute Cave, Guilin
Photographer: Dennis Jarvis

It was a similar story when we explored the cave at Seven Star Park. Although a little smaller, this cave is no less spectacular. In vast, cathedral-like spaces, stalagmites and stalactites join to form towering columns that rise like plumes of smoke all around us. Lights shimmer across the surface of natural pools; shadows dance on the walls. After several hours spent exploring subterranean wonderlands, it feels disconcerting when we eventually stumble back into the daylight.

On our way out of Seven Star Park we skip past the zoo and the tree-top adventure playground—one more reluctantly than the other—but there’s one last surprise awaiting us before we leave. Crossing the spectacularly misnamed “Flower Bridge”, we notice a crowd has gathered to gawp and point down to the river below.

Two bamboo boats, we discover, have collided and broken up in the water; the deck of one boat is all that remains intact, anchored on the rocks midstream. One bloke stands on top of the deck, another clings desperately to the side. The head of one less fortunate figure can be seen bobbing swiftly downstream, eventually making it to the bank a couple of anxious minutes later.

The police are called, survey the scene, call out to the men, have a brief conversation, then leave. Despite the fact that two men remain stranded in the middle of a river, apparently, it was decided, all was well. Calmness in the chaos.

The Rice Terraces

Rice Terraces, Guilin

A bumpy three-hour bus ride takes us to our next destination, the Longji Rice Terraces. Despite my insistence we should hike from the vehicle drop-off point to the top of the hills, we decided instead to take the cable car. About halfway up I remember that I’m pretty unfit, and am thankful to have wiser heads around to remind me of this reality.

It’s a cloudy day, but on the occasions when the sun does break through, the hills seem to sing. The panoramic views of glistening water and lush hillsides are only broken by lone figures toiling in the fields.

 

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It’s undeniably stunning, but a question plays on my mind of how authentic an experience this really is, and whether that even matters? Unlike cormorant fishing, which is a dying trade nowadays kept alive almost exclusively through tourist dollars, these are still working farms. The people who work here actually are farmers and not just playing dress-up for tourists.

There are crowds, but if you can look past that, then it’s certainly possible to feel some connection with an ancient, agrarian way of life that has endured for centuries, in the process forming the basis for much modern Chinese culture and cuisine.

And yet…a feeling is all it is really, and a fleeting one at that. Am I really any closer to knowing what it’s like to work in those fields, day-in-day-out, year after year? Do I have any genuine understanding of the communities that are forged in that beautiful but harsh environment? I have taken a closer look at the iconography of rural China, but am I any closer to really experiencing the substance of that life?

Not really.

But we must take what we can get. I was glad to be there, in the rural calm that underpins our urban chaos. We jump in our van and are transported back to the modern world, the deep connection to the past we sometimes glimpse, now already beginning to fade in the memory.

Still, it was a privilege to be there, if only for a short time.

Lunch

Lunch, I’m sorry to say, was less of a privilege. A whole chicken, minus the head but with very conspicuous feet, stuffed into a bamboo tube without seasoning or sauce, then flumped onto a plate was not what I’d been longing for if I’m brutally honest.

Still, when in Heaven…

Chicken Bamboo, Guilin

On the positive side, the local style of cooking and serving rice inside a bamboo shoot was pretty great.

“God never hurls a chicken at you”, they say, “without opening a bamboo shoot”.

Yangshuo

Yangshuo, Guilin, China

The highlight of any trip to the Guilin area is a trip down the gorgeous Li River valley towards the small town of Yangshuo. There are a variety of crafts of different sizes that sail up and down the river, but most people opt for the little 4-seater bamboo rafts. As our boat purrs gently down the river there’s plenty of time to sit back and take in the views. We’d thought the scenery in Guilin was amazing but things really amp up a notch as you get closer to Yangshuo.

(By the way, if you decide to take this journey then try to bring a 20 Yuan note with you if you can. It will become clear why when you’re en route).

Once we’d made it from Yangshuo to our hotel we were able to relax before heading to Yangshuo Cooking School. A small barn surrounded by forest and mountains became our home for the next couple of hours, and possibly the only place on Earth I’ve not been bored by cooking.

Cooking in Guilin, China

Here we learned how to make a variety of simple but tasty dishes, and I found many reasons to be thankful. I was thankful we had another chance to try the gorgeous beer-cooked catfish. I was thankful for our instructor’s patience after I took about 5 days to disassemble an aubergine with a meat cleaver. Most of all I was thankful to make it out with all my fingers still attached.

Becoming A World Famous Moped Rider

After several days near Yangshuo town center, we changed hotel to move deeper into the scenic area. Here we rented mopeds and set off to explore the area. OK, we attempted to rent mopeds, but after 15 minutes of watching me veer recklessly around the car park, the hotel staff politely but firmly regained the moped and handed us a bicycle.

I felt like someone who’s just been booted off American Idol after being told they can’t sing: secretly I knew they were right, but still I rode off with my head held high, vowing to become a world-famous moped rider one day and prove them all wrong.

he View From Our Hotel Room in Yangshuo

After some frankly incandescent bike riding we finished our stay in Yangshuo with a climb up Moon Hill. The hillside was steep, it was close to 35 degrees and a thunderstorm raged above us, but we would not be beaten. Step after step we fought on, every muscle in our bodies screaming at us to turn back, but we would not be beaten. Sweat streamed down our bodies, like tears in the rain, and we were being eaten alive by insects, but the summit was in sight.

We. Would. Not. Be. Beaten.

Laughing and panting (mostly panting), we arrived at the summit and were treated to another jaw-dropping view…

…And three very elderly women selling Cola.

They make that trek several times a day, often carrying heavy backpacks, deep into their old age. That sort of thing would take some of the buzz out of summiting Everest I’d imagine.

Guilin, China
Here I am, trying to look like I’m still proud of myself.

Back To Guilin

…And a chance to reflect. Are the locals right? Is the elephant right? Is Guilin really better than heaven?

Well, obviously no—it isn’t.

For one thing, I can’t conceive of a heaven that includes so many mosquitoes. Nor was I a fan of scraping the t-shirt from my back with a spatula each night (it’s hot). I’m also not so naïve as to think that once you probe beneath the surface you won’t find the same conflicts, struggles and social divisions that exist in every other city on Earth.

What Guilin really represents, to me, is more a sort of oasis. Despite the encroachments of urbanization and globalization, it remains a region whose natural beauty and cultural life have been preserved: a comparative haven of calm in the chaos that is modern China.

That’s not a criticism of China. Every country is changing fast. Every country needs places like this where we can connect with the past and commune with nature, even if the real action is happening elsewhere. Every country needs cities where we can transcend the madness and try to grasp at something eternal.

Guilin is that. It might not be heaven, but it does a pretty good impression.

 

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Everything You Need To Know

How to get there:

Although Guilin is a comparatively small city, it was also the first Chinese city to open to tourism (in 1949), so access is now pretty easy. Cheap flights are available from Beijing, Xi’an and Shanghai, as well as a host of smaller cities across China. There are also international flights available from Osaka, Hanoi, Bangkok, Seoul, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.

A full list of airports connecting to Guilin can be found here.

Train travel, unfortunately, is a little more complex. The best options are to come from Chengdu, Xi’an, or the Guangzhou/Shenzen/Hong Kong urban area in the South. If you decide to come by train then we highly recommend booking tickets through Travel China. We used them to book other rail tickets and they really made the process much smoother than we were expecting.

How to get around:

Guilin is easy enough to walk around providing you base yourself at a hotel that is reasonably central. There is no metro or tram system and the buses are confusing, so public transport is somewhat limited.

However, taxis are abundant and very cheap. Just be sure to have a copy of your hotel address in Mandarin to show to the driver, and download “Didi”—the Chinese equivalent of Uber—if you’re going away from the city center and are worried about getting stranded.

Where to stay:

If you’re looking for super cheap and cheerful accommodation then you could follow our lead and stay at the Cyan Box Hostel near Seven Star Park (roughly a 20-minute walk from town). We paid around 10 USD per night for a private double room, though dorms are available for around 5 USD. The accommodation is pretty basic, but the hostel has a nice vibe, it’s very safe and the staff were great. They can also help book tours to all the places mentioned in the article above.

Accommodation is still very cheap in China so if you’re looking for somewhere to stay that’s a little more upmarket then we’d recommend the Lijiang Waterfall hotel if you want to be very central, or the Sheraton Guilin, which is again fairly central, but just a little quieter.

In Yangshuo we stayed at the Bamboo Leaf Resort just outside town. The amenities and service were probably the best value of anywhere we experienced on our entire trip around Asia and I would recommend it whole-heartedly. Although the location is perhaps not ideal as it’s too far to walk comfortably in town. You’ll probably need to take a taxi to the hotel and then rent bikes/mopeds from their reception if you want to explore the town fully.

We then moved to the Zen Garden Resort in the scenic area. This was quite isolated, very quiet and just a bit strange, in that way that empty country hotels sometimes are. There were lots of frogs but very few people. I sort of felt like I was in a very polished version of The Shining. We spent a little extra on this hotel to get a nice view from our window and it certainly delivered on that, the location is great too. Other than that, though, I wouldn’t say it represents great value for money.

Yulong River, Guilin, China

What became of Barry?

We don’t know. He told us where his tea shop was but to our shame we forgot what he’d said and we couldn’t find him again. If you see him, please tell him that we’re sorry and we love him.

Suggested next reading: 9 Gorgeous Locations In China That Will Take Your Breath Away (Part 1)

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