China – Modern Trekker https://moderntrekker.com The World Is Waiting Mon, 25 Feb 2019 20:25:31 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.9.12 https://moderntrekker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/cropped-Plane2-32x32.jpg China – Modern Trekker https://moderntrekker.com 32 32 144266218 Jiufen, Taiwan: The Budget-Friendly Japan Of Taiwan https://moderntrekker.com/jiufen-taiwan/ https://moderntrekker.com/jiufen-taiwan/#respond Mon, 11 Feb 2019 15:32:47 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=6022 Why go to Japan when you can go to Jiufen,…

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Why go to Japan when you can go to Jiufen, Taiwan? Known for being the supposed inspiration for the film, Spirited Away (though the writer denied this), Jiufen (九份) is a shimmering, old gold town in Taiwan that steals the heart of any lover of Japan.

Being a lot cheaper than Japan, however, this makes Jiufen a no-brainer for anyone wanting to experience Japan on a budget while near Southeast Asia.

About Jiufen, Taiwan

Jiufen Taiwan Map

Jiufen is a mountain town in north Taiwan only 2 hours away from Taipei City, which makes it an ideal day trip if you’re in the area.

It was a mining town during the gold rush of the Japanese era up until the 1950s but, far from becoming a ghost town, its stunning view of the Pacific Ocean, tea houses, picturesque winding streets and vintage Japanese feel, made it a popular destination for Taiwanese and travelers.

Jiufen's beautiful coastline view=

In fact, the Japanese feel is so strong that its connection with the Japenese film, Spirited Away, cannot be ignored.

Jiufen Taiwan Old Street

But Jiufen Taiwan has more than just one film going for it. The winner of the 1989’s Golden Lion film award, A City of Sadness, was filmed here too.

Jiufen is quite small, with only about 3,000+ inhabitants. Being a mountain town, its roads are narrow, curvy and steep. Some things you might expect to find, such as a bank, you will not find here. So bring essentials with you and don’t rely on finding it within Jiufen.

Why Is Jiufen Cheaper Than Japan?

Japan, as a whole, is quite a bit more expensive than Taiwan.

Transportation Cost

Transportation in Japan is expensive,  with a single train journey alone (e.g. from Tokyo to Osaka) setting you back around $140, whereas in Taiwan the equivalent would only set you back by around $25.

Many of the local trains from Taipei (the capital city) to surrounding areas won’t be much more than $12. Whereas the metro system in Taipei itself is also cheap, with 10 days metro use costing this blogger just $3.60.

To save money traveling around Taiwan use local trains and the metro when in cities like Taipei.

Food Cost

Moreover, food in Japan is generally more expensive than in Taiwan. Not because Japan’s food is particularly expensive, but because Taiwanese street food is so cheap due to the many night markets. We recommend eating Taiwan’s street food over restaurants because, first of all, we find them to be safer (less likely to get food poisoning!), and secondly, because it is SO much cheaper.

Most street food dishes are around $1 or $2, so you can’t go wrong with that price. Best of all, it’s more authentic and what the locals do themselves.

Accommodation Cost

Accommodation usually costs a fair amount in Japan and, even if you are lucky enough to find a budget hotel, in comparison to Taiwan, you’ll be forking out more to spend the night.

You can find some great Airbnbs within Taipei for as low as $25 per night.

How Do I Get To Jiufen From Taipei?

Taipei To Jiufen
Taipei

1. Train

Go to Taipei Main Station (台北車站) and take the train north to Ruifang Station (瑞芳) for around NT$60 / $2. Then, exit Riufang Station, facing the “wellcome” supermarket, go straight and turn left onto Mingdeng Road.

Walk about 5 minutes/200 meters looking out for a police station, next to it is a bus stop called Local Residents Plaza (區民廣場) with the Keelung Bus 788 and 827 heading toward Jiufen. It’ll cost you about NT$20 / 50¢ to board. Stay on the bus until the last stop since it’ll drop you off near(ish) to Jiufen’s Old Street.

Once out of Riufang Station go straight and turn left onto the street in front of you. Cross the street and walk down for about 5 minutes or so until you reach a bus station. We were slightly unsure of which bus to take, so we asked the bus driver before we hopped on (I believe it was Keelung Bus 788, but double check the schedule). Stay on the bus until the last stop, which will drop you off a few minutes away from Jiufen Old Street. The train ticket is around NT$60 and the bus ticket is around NT$20.

2. Bus

A direct bus (the 965) leaves Banqiao Bus Station in the Banqiao district of New Taipei City and takes about 80 minutes to get there. One way, this ticket will cost you about NT$90 / $2.90 and leaves 6AM – 9PM on weekdays and 7AM – 9PM on weekends and holidays.

Alternatively, make your way to Zhongxiao Fuxing Station ((忠孝復興) at the intersection of the Brown and Blue line, and leave Exit 2. From outside the Sogo department store, you’ll be able to take the Keelung Bus 1062 to Jinguashin. (It says Junguashin, but it’ll take you to Jiufen, so no need to worry!)

This bus ticket will cost you NT$100 / $3.30 and the bus journey will take about 60 minutes, so get a good seat to spot the views!

3. Car

Of course, if money is less of a concern, you could just rent a car for the day from either IWS Car Rental or Chailease Auto Rental. The drive will take about 45 to 60 minutes.

What Is There To Do In Jiufen?

1. Jiu Fen Old Street

Jiufen Old Street
Photographer: Σ64

Be transported back into a different world by visiting the bustling old streets of Jiufen. It’ll feel like old Taiwan and old Japan all at once, and is located near Keelung’s coast with gorgeous sea views.

There are 4 streets of notable significance for you to check out: Jishan Street (particularly packed on weekends or holidays), Jianci Road, Cingbian Road, and Ciche Road.

Slow down, people watch, take it all in, and try and snap that perfect photo of hanging lanterns and Japanese-style decorations. It’ll feel like a different world!

There is also great food here too.

On the packed old streets of Jiufen there are vendors offer all kinds of Taiwanese foods such as hot or cold Taro Balls, Green tea balls, Hongzao meatballs, rice cakes, and much more. Definitely try the Taro Balls, which is popular all over Taiwan but was first created here in Jiufen in the 1940s.

Good places to grab a bite include A-Zhu Peanut Ice Cream RollGrandma Lai’s Yu Yuan and Ah Gan Yi Yu Yuan.

2. Do A Night Tour

If you’re the sort of person who dislikes crowds then a night tour of Jiufen may be perfect for you. You’ll get to see Jiufen in all its glory during the night and the atmosphere will be different.

Quite a few people think you can complete Jiufen in just one afternoon, but that is a mistake. Sometimes people regret not staying overnight in Jiufen and end up coming back again.

So starting your Jiufen trip with a night tour and then staying at one of the amazing guesthouses (e.g. Shanhaiguan Guesthouse / 九份山海观民宿) overnight so you can wake up bright and early to experience Jiufen in the morning is a fantastic idea!

A night tour with Klook around the night markets of Jiufen, Shifen and Keelung Miaokow would also be a great choice.

3. Visit A Tea House

A Mei Teahouse In Jiufen
A Mei Teahouse. Photographer: Σ64

Throughout the Old Street of Jiufen (though, in turn, its more like an alley) are a scattering of teahouses—squashed, hidden, and delicately placed in the middle of shops and buildings that are well worth the visit.

There is A Mei teahouse decorated with masks reminiscent of Spirited Away. Expect to hear Japenese. The author (Hayao Miyazaki) can deny Jiufen’s inspiration in the Japanese fantasy film all he wants, but this won’t stop the tourists due to the Studio Ghibli memorabilia found throughout the town.

The menu of A Mei teahouse offers a wide selection of beverages, teas and desserts. Pricey but tasty, and worth the experience.

Another teahouse of note is the Skyline teahouse. Offering pristine views of the coast and nearby mountains, this oolong-selling traditional teahouse also sells traditional Taiwanese snacks.

4. Hike Keelung Mountain (基隆山)

Keelung Mountain In Jiufen
Photographer: Basheer Tome

If just walking down the twisting, steep roads of Jiufen doesn’t satisfy your hiking needs, then a hike up Keelung Mountain is a must-do. At 588 meters high, it’s quite a challenge for newbies and will take about 2 hours in total for travel times from Jiufen and to complete it.

If you’re looking for how to get to Jiufen from Keelung to do this hike, simply either take a taxi or, alternatively, make your way to Jiu Dao station by taking the 基隆客運 KL bus from Keelung train station, or the 825 bus from Ruifang train station.

5. Check Out Shengping Theater

If movies and Baroque architecture is your thing, you ought to check out Shengping Theater.

Built in the early 1900s the theater is the oldest existing theater in Taiwan. Renovated and reopened in 2011, this theater now gives locals a chance to re-live childhood memories watching classic Taiwanese films and operas.

So go and check out an old Taiwanese movie and connect with the movie-history of Taiwan.

Jiufen Taiwan Map

Here is our interactive map of Jiufen so you can see where some of the most notable places are.

The Best Time To Visit Jiufen

If you’re going just to shop then the best time to visit Jiufen Taiwan is late morning.

If you’re going for the ambiance, experience and mood then this is best in the early morning and evening. (And, like mentioned above, spending the night is highly recommended).

What Should I Buy In Jiufen?Jiufen Taiwan Old Street

If you’re looking to try Taiwanese delicacies then you definitely should taste the Ah Gan Yee’ Yam Ball (阿甘姨芋圆). A warm soup (which will be nice at this colder mountain altitude anyway). We also recommend asking for the mixed version which is red peppers, yam balls in a green bean soup.

If you’re looking to bring something home with you then good souvenirs include cups, bags, fans, plushy teddies, and lots of silk products—the embroidery on these silks are excellent and will make a great gift.

A recommended tea to order in teahouses would be Jin Xuan Oolong Tea (金宣茶).

A Day Trip To Shifen

Nearby to Jiufen, another day trip worth doing from Taipei is Shifen. You can either spend a few days in Jiufen and go to Shifen as well or do it separately from Jiufen altogether.

Possessing its own Old Street, Shifen also features the broadest waterfall in Taiwan, Shifen Waterfalls.

A Day Trip To Jinguashi

Teapot Mountain In Jinguashi
Teapot Mountain

Another worthy day trip is the mining town of Jinguashi, again not far from Jiufen.

Featuring one of the hardest hikes in Northern Taiwan called Teapot Mountain (茶壺山), Jinguashi also contains the Gold Museum which looks at Taiwan’s fascinating gold mining history, and also the Golden Waterfall which, although not flowing in gold, is an extraordinary scene of nature and definitely worth visiting.


Are you going on a trip to Jiufen soon? Tell us how it goes and share your experience and tips in the comment section below!

Suggested next reading: 7 Nerdy Things To Do In Tokyo That Are SO Much Fun

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China’s Li River Valley: Better Than Heaven? https://moderntrekker.com/guilin/ https://moderntrekker.com/guilin/#respond Wed, 19 Dec 2018 13:00:39 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=3176   The people of Guanxi Province, in Southern China, have…

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The people of Guanxi Province, in Southern China, have an expression: “I would rather live in Guilin”, they say, “than in heaven”.

 

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Even if you haven’t heard of Guilin until now, there’s a chance you already know a little bit about it. Close your eyes and try to imagine rural China. Are you picturing misty peaks towering above lazy rivers? Cormorants fishing in the twilight? Rice terraces glittering in the sunshine?

Well, you’re really thinking about Guilin.

I was lucky enough to be able to spend two weeks there recently, as part of a longer trip around China. I have always been enchanted by that landscape—mostly from watching nature documentaries as a kid—and for the longest time I’ve wanted to just sit down in those hills and imagine for one fleeting moment that I’m part of that life.

But I also hoped that my time there would reveal something of the local history, culture, and the reality of day-to-day life in this remarkable environment.

I’m not sure how fully I succeeded at that objective, but I did get a small taste of both the reality and the daydream. I’ll try to share some of these experiences with you here, in the hope that it will persuade you to make a trip to this remarkable part of the world.

Arrival

As our plane comes into land, I glance out of the window. In the distance, wreathed in shadow, are the towering karsts that define this region. This is my first glimpse of a landscape we’ve traveled halfway across the world to see and I can’t wait to get out and explore.

These unique limestone structures are created when acids in rainwater slowly dissolve the bedrock, forming tiny cracks and fissures that deepen and expand over time. Eventually, this process culminates in the formation of sheer, isolated and well-defined peaks that rise sharply above the plains below.

There are many places in South East Asia where karst landforms can be seen, but they are arguably at their most spectacular in the area around Guilin.

 

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But before we could get to exploring, we first needed to find our hotel. Guilin doesn’t have a train line from the airport to the city, unfortunately, so instead we jumped in a taxi—an experience in itself. With just one hand on the wheel—the other left free to produce an endless supply of pumpkin seeds—our driver whisked us down the highway and through the city, deftly skirting pedestrians and other vehicles whilst having hurried conversations with his family on the phone.

If you’re a soft Westerner like me then this sort of thing can feel a little chaotic at times. In Guilin, people use megaphones and huge PA systems to try and tempt you into buying fruit. The marketplaces and restaurants are always packed to the rafters and booming with noise. The traffic doesn’t stop, even at crossings, so you just have to dive out into a sea of mopeds and trust the riders to skim around you.

Don’t worry, it’s not their first rodeo.

Motorbikes In Asia

But the longer you spend in here, the more you realize that there’s actually a sense of order and security underpinning what at first looks like chaos. More than that, the people seem to embody a sense of calmness in the chaos that you really come to admire.

For example, near misses on the roads, which would certainly provoke profanity or even violence in my hometown, here draw barely a second look. Restaurant and shop owners will try and tempt you to dine, but if you say no then you’re offered a smile and left alone, not hectored as you try and walk away, as is the case in some parts of the world.

In the evening the streets come alive with young people, but that doesn’t stop the middle-aged and elderly bringing out their stereos, whacking on the dancing shoes, and joining in the fun in the town’s many underpasses, alleyways, and any other forgotten corners.

So, how much can you tell about a place in just two weeks, especially when you don’t speak the language? Not much, I’d say. Just an impression really. Sometimes those impressions are well-founded, sometimes not.

But our impressions of Guilin were of a place that feels welcoming; a place where the locals genuinely seem happy. Every smile, every kind gesture, every stranger who offered us help—and there were many—they all just kept adding to the strength of this impression.

If Guilin is heaven, you’d expect this to show through in the people who live there. You’d expect those people, for the most part, to be happy, relaxed, tolerant and inclusive.

Well, they really were.

The City

Guilin is a low rise, medium-sized city with a compact, walkable center. At the heart of the town is Zhengyang Pedestrian Street, a busy row of shops, bars and restaurants which is also a great place to sample the excellent local delicacy of beer-cooked catfish.

Walk a little further down this street and you arrive at Guilin Central Square, a popular meeting place and venue for public festivals. A little further still and you’ll find yourself looking out over Shanhu Lake. This is where we ended up on our first night in Guilin, transfixed by the astounding Sun and Moon Pagoda and talking to a local English teacher and part-time tea farmer who had adopted the name “Barry”.

From Barry we learn that the two pagodas, despite being been modeled on two much older structures that stood in the same spot, back in the Tang Dynasty, are relatively recent additions to Guilin. These two modern towers, we learn, are connected by an underwater tunnel with a glass roof. It’s also possible to get views over the city from the tops of either.

Don’t bother with that nonsense, says Barry, just look at them.

And they are a sight to behold, especially lit up at night, their reflections dancing over the water. The Sun Tower seemed to me to express confidence and energy, the Moon Tower, serenity and grace. Maybe I was feeling the effect of a few beers but they seemed like fitting monuments to the chaos and the calm that is life in Guilin.

Sun and Moon Towers in Guilin
Photographer: Dennis Jarvis

I’ll be honest, we were already pretty sold on Barry by this point, but then, without prompting or bribing, he announced that he loved football and had always wanted to go to my hometown of Manchester (UK). Instantly recognizing Barry as a man of impeccable taste and virtue, I began to envision a life on the tea plantations as his adopted son. But I didn’t let on. I decided I would play the long game.

Instead, we followed Barry’s suggestion to head back to the Central Square at 8.30pm to see “the waterfall”. Neither I nor my partner really understood his meaning at the time, but he’d long since earned our trust, so we went there, and we waited…

Just as we were beginning to doubt Barry’s integrity, all of a sudden music starts blaring from some hidden speakers, the small crowd that had gathered begins to buzz with enthusiasm, and as if by magic, water starts cascading 50 feet down from the roof of a nearby hotel, streaming over the windows and gathering in fountains on the street.

Oh, Barry! We never doubted you for a minute.

The next day we explore the area across the road from Shanhu Lake and find “Elephant Trunk Hill”, another icon of the city. According to legend, this strange rock formation was created when a Divine Elephant—the steed of the Emperor of Heaven—was wounded in battle and fell to Earth in Guilin. After being nursed back to health by a kindly local couple, the Elephant was said to have fallen in love with Guilin and so opted never to return to its master.

“I would rather live in Guilin”, it said, “than in Heaven”.

And there it remains to this day.

 

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After a short but sweaty walk to the top of the Elephant’s back, I finally got the view of the karsts I had been hoping for, and it was breath-taking. I’m lucky to have done a fair amount of traveling in my time and I can honestly say it was one of the most beautiful landscapes I’ve ever seen.

I was beginning to think the Elephant might have had a point after all.

The Caves

Reed Flute Cave is the biggest and most spectacular cave complex in Guilin, arguably in China. Over the years it’s stunning features have been used by the Chinese government to impress all the great and good of world politics, as well as Richard Nixon.

Stepping into those vaulted ceilings it’s easy to see why the place is held in such high esteem. The variety of formations taken by the rock set the mind reeling; the intricacies of the patterns carved by natural forces inspire genuine awe. The use of rainbow-colored light displays, in my mind at least, only add to the ethereal quality of the place.

Reed Flute Cave, Guilin
Photographer: Dennis Jarvis

It was a similar story when we explored the cave at Seven Star Park. Although a little smaller, this cave is no less spectacular. In vast, cathedral-like spaces, stalagmites and stalactites join to form towering columns that rise like plumes of smoke all around us. Lights shimmer across the surface of natural pools; shadows dance on the walls. After several hours spent exploring subterranean wonderlands, it feels disconcerting when we eventually stumble back into the daylight.

On our way out of Seven Star Park we skip past the zoo and the tree-top adventure playground—one more reluctantly than the other—but there’s one last surprise awaiting us before we leave. Crossing the spectacularly misnamed “Flower Bridge”, we notice a crowd has gathered to gawp and point down to the river below.

Two bamboo boats, we discover, have collided and broken up in the water; the deck of one boat is all that remains intact, anchored on the rocks midstream. One bloke stands on top of the deck, another clings desperately to the side. The head of one less fortunate figure can be seen bobbing swiftly downstream, eventually making it to the bank a couple of anxious minutes later.

The police are called, survey the scene, call out to the men, have a brief conversation, then leave. Despite the fact that two men remain stranded in the middle of a river, apparently, it was decided, all was well. Calmness in the chaos.

The Rice Terraces

Rice Terraces, Guilin

A bumpy three-hour bus ride takes us to our next destination, the Longji Rice Terraces. Despite my insistence we should hike from the vehicle drop-off point to the top of the hills, we decided instead to take the cable car. About halfway up I remember that I’m pretty unfit, and am thankful to have wiser heads around to remind me of this reality.

It’s a cloudy day, but on the occasions when the sun does break through, the hills seem to sing. The panoramic views of glistening water and lush hillsides are only broken by lone figures toiling in the fields.

 

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It’s undeniably stunning, but a question plays on my mind of how authentic an experience this really is, and whether that even matters? Unlike cormorant fishing, which is a dying trade nowadays kept alive almost exclusively through tourist dollars, these are still working farms. The people who work here actually are farmers and not just playing dress-up for tourists.

There are crowds, but if you can look past that, then it’s certainly possible to feel some connection with an ancient, agrarian way of life that has endured for centuries, in the process forming the basis for much modern Chinese culture and cuisine.

And yet…a feeling is all it is really, and a fleeting one at that. Am I really any closer to knowing what it’s like to work in those fields, day-in-day-out, year after year? Do I have any genuine understanding of the communities that are forged in that beautiful but harsh environment? I have taken a closer look at the iconography of rural China, but am I any closer to really experiencing the substance of that life?

Not really.

But we must take what we can get. I was glad to be there, in the rural calm that underpins our urban chaos. We jump in our van and are transported back to the modern world, the deep connection to the past we sometimes glimpse, now already beginning to fade in the memory.

Still, it was a privilege to be there, if only for a short time.

Lunch

Lunch, I’m sorry to say, was less of a privilege. A whole chicken, minus the head but with very conspicuous feet, stuffed into a bamboo tube without seasoning or sauce, then flumped onto a plate was not what I’d been longing for if I’m brutally honest.

Still, when in Heaven…

Chicken Bamboo, Guilin

On the positive side, the local style of cooking and serving rice inside a bamboo shoot was pretty great.

“God never hurls a chicken at you”, they say, “without opening a bamboo shoot”.

Yangshuo

Yangshuo, Guilin, China

The highlight of any trip to the Guilin area is a trip down the gorgeous Li River valley towards the small town of Yangshuo. There are a variety of crafts of different sizes that sail up and down the river, but most people opt for the little 4-seater bamboo rafts. As our boat purrs gently down the river there’s plenty of time to sit back and take in the views. We’d thought the scenery in Guilin was amazing but things really amp up a notch as you get closer to Yangshuo.

(By the way, if you decide to take this journey then try to bring a 20 Yuan note with you if you can. It will become clear why when you’re en route).

Once we’d made it from Yangshuo to our hotel we were able to relax before heading to Yangshuo Cooking School. A small barn surrounded by forest and mountains became our home for the next couple of hours, and possibly the only place on Earth I’ve not been bored by cooking.

Cooking in Guilin, China

Here we learned how to make a variety of simple but tasty dishes, and I found many reasons to be thankful. I was thankful we had another chance to try the gorgeous beer-cooked catfish. I was thankful for our instructor’s patience after I took about 5 days to disassemble an aubergine with a meat cleaver. Most of all I was thankful to make it out with all my fingers still attached.

Becoming A World Famous Moped Rider

After several days near Yangshuo town center, we changed hotel to move deeper into the scenic area. Here we rented mopeds and set off to explore the area. OK, we attempted to rent mopeds, but after 15 minutes of watching me veer recklessly around the car park, the hotel staff politely but firmly regained the moped and handed us a bicycle.

I felt like someone who’s just been booted off American Idol after being told they can’t sing: secretly I knew they were right, but still I rode off with my head held high, vowing to become a world-famous moped rider one day and prove them all wrong.

he View From Our Hotel Room in Yangshuo

After some frankly incandescent bike riding we finished our stay in Yangshuo with a climb up Moon Hill. The hillside was steep, it was close to 35 degrees and a thunderstorm raged above us, but we would not be beaten. Step after step we fought on, every muscle in our bodies screaming at us to turn back, but we would not be beaten. Sweat streamed down our bodies, like tears in the rain, and we were being eaten alive by insects, but the summit was in sight.

We. Would. Not. Be. Beaten.

Laughing and panting (mostly panting), we arrived at the summit and were treated to another jaw-dropping view…

…And three very elderly women selling Cola.

They make that trek several times a day, often carrying heavy backpacks, deep into their old age. That sort of thing would take some of the buzz out of summiting Everest I’d imagine.

Guilin, China
Here I am, trying to look like I’m still proud of myself.

Back To Guilin

…And a chance to reflect. Are the locals right? Is the elephant right? Is Guilin really better than heaven?

Well, obviously no—it isn’t.

For one thing, I can’t conceive of a heaven that includes so many mosquitoes. Nor was I a fan of scraping the t-shirt from my back with a spatula each night (it’s hot). I’m also not so naïve as to think that once you probe beneath the surface you won’t find the same conflicts, struggles and social divisions that exist in every other city on Earth.

What Guilin really represents, to me, is more a sort of oasis. Despite the encroachments of urbanization and globalization, it remains a region whose natural beauty and cultural life have been preserved: a comparative haven of calm in the chaos that is modern China.

That’s not a criticism of China. Every country is changing fast. Every country needs places like this where we can connect with the past and commune with nature, even if the real action is happening elsewhere. Every country needs cities where we can transcend the madness and try to grasp at something eternal.

Guilin is that. It might not be heaven, but it does a pretty good impression.

 

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Everything You Need To Know

How to get there:

Although Guilin is a comparatively small city, it was also the first Chinese city to open to tourism (in 1949), so access is now pretty easy. Cheap flights are available from Beijing, Xi’an and Shanghai, as well as a host of smaller cities across China. There are also international flights available from Osaka, Hanoi, Bangkok, Seoul, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.

A full list of airports connecting to Guilin can be found here.

Train travel, unfortunately, is a little more complex. The best options are to come from Chengdu, Xi’an, or the Guangzhou/Shenzen/Hong Kong urban area in the South. If you decide to come by train then we highly recommend booking tickets through Travel China. We used them to book other rail tickets and they really made the process much smoother than we were expecting.

How to get around:

Guilin is easy enough to walk around providing you base yourself at a hotel that is reasonably central. There is no metro or tram system and the buses are confusing, so public transport is somewhat limited.

However, taxis are abundant and very cheap. Just be sure to have a copy of your hotel address in Mandarin to show to the driver, and download “Didi”—the Chinese equivalent of Uber—if you’re going away from the city center and are worried about getting stranded.

Where to stay:

If you’re looking for super cheap and cheerful accommodation then you could follow our lead and stay at the Cyan Box Hostel near Seven Star Park (roughly a 20-minute walk from town). We paid around 10 USD per night for a private double room, though dorms are available for around 5 USD. The accommodation is pretty basic, but the hostel has a nice vibe, it’s very safe and the staff were great. They can also help book tours to all the places mentioned in the article above.

Accommodation is still very cheap in China so if you’re looking for somewhere to stay that’s a little more upmarket then we’d recommend the Lijiang Waterfall hotel if you want to be very central, or the Sheraton Guilin, which is again fairly central, but just a little quieter.

In Yangshuo we stayed at the Bamboo Leaf Resort just outside town. The amenities and service were probably the best value of anywhere we experienced on our entire trip around Asia and I would recommend it whole-heartedly. Although the location is perhaps not ideal as it’s too far to walk comfortably in town. You’ll probably need to take a taxi to the hotel and then rent bikes/mopeds from their reception if you want to explore the town fully.

We then moved to the Zen Garden Resort in the scenic area. This was quite isolated, very quiet and just a bit strange, in that way that empty country hotels sometimes are. There were lots of frogs but very few people. I sort of felt like I was in a very polished version of The Shining. We spent a little extra on this hotel to get a nice view from our window and it certainly delivered on that, the location is great too. Other than that, though, I wouldn’t say it represents great value for money.

Yulong River, Guilin, China

What became of Barry?

We don’t know. He told us where his tea shop was but to our shame we forgot what he’d said and we couldn’t find him again. If you see him, please tell him that we’re sorry and we love him.

Suggested next reading: 9 Gorgeous Locations In China That Will Take Your Breath Away (Part 1)

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10 Incredible Things To Do In Beijing For First Timers https://moderntrekker.com/things-to-do-in-beijing/ https://moderntrekker.com/things-to-do-in-beijing/#respond Mon, 03 Dec 2018 12:36:47 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=4884 If I had to choose an adjective to describe Beijing…

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If I had to choose an adjective to describe Beijing it would probably be “compelling”. As the gateway to one of world history’s most influential civilizations, as well as an indisputable modern-day economic superpower, there is perhaps no city on Earth better suited to explore both the old world and the new.

That doesn’t mean it’s always pleasant. Stopping at security every time you change lines on the underground can be draining, the lack of English in train stations and airports can be a little exasperating, and if you arrive during a period of bad air pollution you might be disappointed to find your views of the city skyline lost in a dirty, brown smog.

In a time where the internet has made us better connected to the rest of the world than ever before, Beijing can still be a culture shock. But after a while those things that were unfamiliar and even a little daunting start to become sort of charming.

Beijing is not Disneyland—it has more important things to do than pander to Western tourists—but after a while you start to realize that the refusal to be anything other than itself is actually what makes it such a special place to visit.

Here are 10 things to do in Beijing that’ll make you fall in love with this city.

1. The Great Wall

This is the biggest reason, both literally and figuratively, many people end up in Beijing. There are four main sections of the wall open to tourists and each offers a different sort of experience.

Badaling is the best-restored section of the wall and is the most accessible from downtown Beijing, which is handy if you want to travel and avoid taking a tour. However, it’s also the most popular section, so be prepared for crowds.

Things To Do In Beijing
Over 10 million people visit the Great Wall every year. | 10 Things To Do In Beijing

The Mutianyu section is another popular choice and a little less crowded; and while the Simatai and Jiankou sections have not been restored and are harder to reach, they are much quieter and you can even pitch a tent there if you want.

We visited the Badaling section independently, by train, but it was actually quite an arduous journey. If I were to go back, I’d probably opt for a private tour to Mutianyu. Everyone’s different, though, so click here to find out more and choose the right option for you.

2. Forbidden City

Things To Do In Beijing
Inside one of the vast courtyards of the Forbidden City. | 10 Things To Do In Beijing

China does many things on a grand scale, so it’s appropriate that, at over 74 hectares and comprised of a staggering 980 buildings, the Forbidden City dwarfs any other palatial complex on Earth.

The home of the Emperor from 1420 to the beginning of the Republic in 1924, the palace gets its name from the fact that it was forbidden for any member of the public to enter without the Emperor’s express permission.

Now finally open after spending several millennia cloaked in mystery, it’s no surprise that the museum within the complex is now the most-visited in the world and also one of the best things to do in Beijing.

Be aware: don’t show up without your passport as you’ll need it in order to buy tickets!

Planning help here.

3. Yonghegong Lama Temple

Things To Do In Beijing
Yonghegong Lama Temple was originally the home of Prince Yong (1678-1735), during the Qing Dynasty. 10 Things To Do In Beijing

A mix of traditional Han and Tibetan architectural styles, the buildings that make up the Yonghegong Temple complex are a visual feast of vivid colors and intricate patterns.

The site has acted as a residence and school for Buddhist monks from Mongolia and Tibet for several centuries, and still serves this purpose today. The complex is stacked with books and artworks, including an impressive statue of Maitreya Buddha that stands at 60 feet tall.

It’s easy to reach, having its own subway stop just around the corner, and is a welcome haven for peacefulness and reflection in the midst of Beijing’s urban whirlwind.

4. Temple of Confucius

The teachings of Confucius—the moral philosopher, educator, politician and social reformer of 6th Century BC China—are undoubtedly one of the major intellectual forces that helped China become the society we know today. It’s impossible to understand China without first understanding his impact.

Pay a visit to this 14th Century temple in Beijing and you’ll begin to appreciate the compassion and wisdom he helped instil into every area of Chinese life.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BnY71r6AKf_/

Among the complexes quirkier highlights are wooden “textbooks” left behind by early Confucian scholars, and an ancient cypress tree that is said to be able to detect when an evil person is passing beneath it and smack them around the head.

5. Temple of Heaven

Another of Beijing’s cultural wonders, the Temple of Heaven is the site where the Emperor used to come to pray for a good harvest. When you think that a bad harvest could result in open rebellion against the Emperor, you can see why this place held such significance in Chinese political life.

At the center is the mesmerizing Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, a building of such intricate decoration it needs to be seen up close to be believed.

Things To Do In Beijing
The Temple of Heaven began construction in 1406 and was built following strict Chinese philosophical requirements. | 10 Things To Do In Beijing

There is also a famous “whispering wall” where secrets can be passed across large distances due to a quirk of acoustics, plus some extensive grounds full of small architectural and natural features which make for a pleasant afternoon stroll when you’re done.

The Temple of Heaven is easy to visit independently from Tiantandongmen subway station and there are excellent audio guides that can be purchased cheaply from the entrance.

6. Day Trip to Tianjin

When I was researching my own trip to Beijing I was surprised to see how infrequently the nearby city of Tianjin was mentioned in travel guides.

Only an hour’s train ride away on a super high-speed rail connection, it’s well worth taking a day to explore one of China’s nine major “central cities”, a place that is still unfamiliar to many of us in the West.

Tianjin is full of delights, both old and new. Highlights include the many 19th Century European style churches and colonial buildings, the panoramic views from the “Tianjin Eye”, and the Grand Canal.

As an Academic Librarian in a former life, and a committed book nerd, the cutting-edge Tianjin Binhai Library was a personal “must-see”.

7. Explore the Hutongs

Things To Do In Beijing
Hutongs originate from the Yuan dynasty (1206–1341). | 10 Things To Do In Beijing

The tight residential alleyways known as hutongs are where many of Beijing’s locals live and they’re always full of character.

Spend an afternoon charting a lazy course through the streets and you’re likely to stumble upon some amazing street food, quirky shops, impromptu games of Mahjong or simply the good folk of Beijing going about their daily lives.

Each hutong has its own flavor and tour guides can be really useful in helping to bring the place alive.

If you prefer to explore independently then my best advice would be to book a hotel in a hutong—look for rooms in “Nostalgia Hotels” online—and even your walk to the local shops is likely to be a small adventure.

8. Eat all the foods!

No trip is ever complete without indulging in the local cuisine, and in Beijing that means you’re in for a treat—seriously this is one of the most delightful things to do in Beijing!

Chinese dumplings are a must, of course—Mr Shi’s in Baochao hutong is a perennial favorite; as is Peking duck—try Li Qun Restaurant in Beixiangfeng hutong.

Jubaoyuan Restaurant in Xicheng is a great place to sample a mouth-watering hot pot meal where you’ll get to dunk a selection of meats and veg into sizzling sauce.

Things To Do In Beijing
Legend says that dumplings were first invented in the era of the Three Kingdoms of China, around 225 AD. | 10 Things To Do In Beijing

If you need a bit more inspiration then we found this to be a handy guide.

9. Beijing National Stadium

If you were to draw a Venn Diagram with “sports fans” on one side, and “Chinese modernist architecture fans” on the other, and then asked me how big the center section would be, I’d literally have had no idea.

That is until the National Stadium opened to huge acclaim in 2008.

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The striking “bird’s nest” design—inspired in part by world-renowned artist, Ai Weiwei—is spectacular when lit up in the evening. After it plays host to the Winter Olympics in 2022, its unique place in sporting history, as the only venue to host both the Summer and Winter Olympics, will be secured.

Visitors to the stadium are well served by two subway lines that run straight to the stadium, and if you’re lucky there may even be a chance to take in a concert or game while you’re there.

10. Beijing National Aquatics Center

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bdoj94yF4S6/

If, like me, you look at Beijing on a map and think “it’s pretty far North, it’s probably not that warm”, prepare to be very wrong…and sweaty. Beijing can get really muggy, so after walking around its many cultural attractions maybe you’ll be in the mood for a nice refreshing dip.

Okay, you think, I’ll just go to the pool. There are pools all over the world though, it can’t be interesting enough to deserve a place on your Top 10 list, right?

Wrong.

This is China—they do things differently here.

Imagine spending an afternoon swimming around the brain of a feverish child and you’re somewhere near to imagining the surreal world that is the National Aquatics Center, sometimes more accurately known as the “Happy Magic Water Cube Waterpark”.

As well as the striking visuals there are also some pretty cool slides here for all age groups, and it’s right next to the National Stadium, so easy to combine the two into one trip.

Other noteworthy things to do in Beijing

The sheer number of things to do in Beijing means I’ve run out of space to cover everything. Though these places have not made the Top 10, they’re all equally deserving of a spot.

  • Escape to nature at Yesanpo National Park
  • Visit the UNESCO World Heritage gardens at the Summer Palace
  • Enjoy the modern art scene in the 798 Arts District
  • Take a history lesson in Tiananmen Square

Checklist

Before you go, here are a few essentials to check:

  • Apply for a visa in plenty of time. It can be a lengthy process.
  • Many social media and other internet sites are blocked. Download a VPN to your laptop and phone if you want to stay connected.
  • Keep your hotel name saved in Mandarin on your phone in case you need to take a taxi back. English is still not widely-spoken.
  • Get a translator app on your phone before you go. Wi-Fi is patchy at best in many places, so you don’t want to try and download it while you’re out there.
  • Download Chinese social media apps. WeChat (Facebook/WhatsApp), Didi (Uber) and WeiBo (Twitter) are all very useful. Even if you don’t expect you’ll be making many friends over there you should still do it. Many tour operators use WeChat to coordinate meeting times etc. so it will come in handy.

China is growing and modernizing at an incredible rate. Like everywhere else in the world, many cities around the country are becoming increasingly homogenized, looking more and more Westernised. Beijing seems better placed to resist these changes than any other city I’ve visited in China, and as a consequence, remains truly authentic.

That doesn’t mean you’ll always be comfortable—it’s likely you’ll be challenged at times and it’s probable you’ll experience some culture shock on your first visit—but you’ll be amazed how quickly you start to feel at home.

Suggested next reading: 9 Gorgeous Locations In China That Will Take Your Breath Away

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6 Hong Kong Dishes You Simply Can’t Afford To Miss (& 1 You Probably Can) https://moderntrekker.com/hong-kong-dishes/ https://moderntrekker.com/hong-kong-dishes/#respond Mon, 30 Jul 2018 07:00:06 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=3053 Hong Kong is such a rich mixing pot of cultures…

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Hong Kong is such a rich mixing pot of cultures and cuisines that it’s known as being the “World’s Food Fair”. It’s for this reason that during a visit to Hong Kong you may find yourself overwhelmed with choice. Fear not, intrepid food traveler, for we have done the research to ensure that you don’t miss one mouth-watering dish. Just follow this list of scrumptious Hong Kong dishes and you won’t go wrong!

1. Roast Goose

Guangdong Roast Goose
Source: Fine Food Dude

British food writer, Matthew Fort once said. “You could confit an old telephone directory in goose fat and it would be eaten with pleasure.” Whilst this is possibly true, we recommend letting the fat stay firmly on the goose and allowing it to crispy up the skin to delicious, golden perfection. With the addition of more than 20 spices and roasted over charcoal that is. Just look out for Roast Goose served Guangdong style and enjoy the mixture of crispy skin with unctuous flesh and be happy. One word of caution—watch out for the small bones!

2. Dim Sum / Steamed Shrimp Dumplings (Har Gow)

Dim Sum

Dim Sum is the indecisive eater’s dream. The delicious answer to the question “but which dish do I choose? Why can’t I have them all?”

Well, happy reader, you can have them all. The Dumplings, the Wontons, the Rice Noodle Rolls. All yours in tiny perfect portions. And there are literally hundreds of restaurants in Hong Kong waiting to make your greedy dream come true.

Special shout out to what some claim is the highlight of Hong Kong Dim Sum, Har Gow. This pricey treat is made up of three or four steamed dumplings, made up of shrimp and pork surrounded in a thin wrapper. Juicy, moreish and bursting with flavor, this is a must-have item when visiting Hong Kong.

3. Fake Shark Fin Soup

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Thankfully no sharks are harmed in the making of this imitation dish. Just a lot of vermicelli noodles which apparently look and feel like shark fin. Good to know.

Joining the noodles in this most flavourful of soups are mushrooms, black fungus, pork and sometimes macaroni to make it a more filling morsel. All these are doused with white pepper, Zhejiang vinegar, sesame oil, chili oil and of course soy sauce.

You will find tiny bowls of steaming goodness being sold by street vendors all around Hong Kong. So remember if someone offers you some “Shark’s Fin in a Bowl” don’t be alarmed. Just take them up on their kind offer.

4. Char Siu

Try even saying Char Siu without your mouth watering. We don’t deserve this salty-sweet, sticky mix of spices and Barbeque Pork but we have it nevertheless because life is good.

Also referred to as Cantonese style Barbeque Pork, Char Siu is easily recognizable due to its golden gooey surface, blackened by the grill. And you will recognize it a lot walking around Hong Kong as it stands as a firm favorite with locals and tourists alike.

The mixture of soy, hoisin, honey or sugar mixed with five spice may sound simple, but perhaps this can be a classic example that simple things are the best. But don’t take our word for it, grab a plate and find out for yourself.

5. Clay Pot Rice

Another contender for the argument that simplicity equals deliciousness, Clay Pot Rice relies on extreme heat to scorch flavor into its ingredients. You know how that crispy bit of pasta around the edge of your lasagne is always the best bit? Well, Clay Pot Rice follows that rule and takes it to the extreme.

Ingredients such as pork, chicken, Chinese sausage or even mushrooms are added to the rice before it is introduced to a fierce heat. This, in turn, cooks the contents of the pot whilst creating a delicious crispy rice crust around the outside, adding flavor and texture to an already delicious dish. Finished with a splash of sauce, this really is a must-eat item, especially if visiting in winter.

6. Tofu Pudding

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After all that deliciously sweet, salty, spicy and sometimes greasy food you might be in search of a light, cleansing dessert. And you can easily find it in Hong Kong, in the form of Tofu Pudding.

Now although tofu may not be the first thing you think of when you think of dessert, it’s transformed into a wonderfully soft, silky texture that takes on the flavor of whatever topping is put on it. Usually, it’s either ginger or a sweet syrup but whatever it is, you can guarantee its delicious.

So why not see tofu through a new set of eyes? Your taste buds will thank you for it.

7. Bonus dish: “Stinky Tofu”

This is one we had to include but be warned, it’s very much a love or hate kind of dish. Even possibly both in the same serving (hate the smell, love the taste).

Stinky Tofu is made by placing tofu in a brine made from fermented milk and leaving it there sometimes for several months. It is very much the kind of dish you have to eat out as making it at home would be lengthy and smelly and might lose you a few loved ones. However, once you get over the smell, the taste is slightly sweet and mild, not unlike fried tofu. You might then ask, well why on earth wouldn’t you just have fried tofu? Well, we’re not really sure but as stinky tofu continues to be a firm favorite of Hong Kong locals, we can only assume there must be something to it. Please try it and let us know!

We hope you liked the look of these Hong Kong dishes! Planning a trip to Hong Kong? Here’s how to make the most of it.

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How To Get The Most Out Of A Short Stay In Hong Kong https://moderntrekker.com/hong-kong/ https://moderntrekker.com/hong-kong/#respond Sat, 28 Jul 2018 07:00:24 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=3051 Trying to describe Hong Kong in a sentence or two…

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Trying to describe Hong Kong in a sentence or two is difficult. The writer Peter Jon Lindberg captured it pretty well, I think, when he described the city as a place where, “nothing is truly foreign, and nothing doesn’t belong”. The best way I can manage to sum it up is that it’s sort of all-encompassing, you know—like the entire world condensed to a single city. When lost in a marketplace you’ll think you’re in Beijing; walk a little further, however, and it’s easy to imagine you’re in downtown Tokyo, high in the mountains around Rio De Janeiro or relaxing in a London park.

It’s disorientating, intoxicating and, at times, slightly overwhelming. Many people, myself included, only come to Hong Kong for a short time—perhaps for a long weekend, or a stopover on an international flight—so it’s hard to know how best to tackle this city in such a limited window.

If that sounds like you then our best advice is to prioritize one or two things from our list below. However, don’t be afraid to create a little free time too, and let the city carry you to places you least expect.

Get the best views

The Hong Kong skyline is undoubtedly one the most striking sights in the modern world. To get a full sense of what makes this city tick then you have to take to the sea. The historic Star Ferry is popular with sightseers and tourists alike, and with fares as low as 10 USD it’s the ideal way to see the harbor on a budget.

For something a little more memorable, consider a cruise on a sampan, or “junk boat”, one of the traditional Chinese fishing vessels that have become icons of Hong Kong. An evening tour (with cocktails) gives glittering views of the harbor that will live long in the memory. Prices for this can vary by tour operator, but you should expect to pay something in the region of 30 USD per person.

For even more breath-taking views, head up Victoria Peak to see the full city spike into the air before your feet. The impossibly steep Peak tram line up the mountainside is every bit as memorable as the views from the top, although it can get a little crowded once you reach the summit. Still, it’s completely worth it. I wasn’t expecting to be blown away by a cluster of brightly-lit insurance companies and banks, but there’s something about all that light and energy in the middle of a sea of darkness that’s a strangely moving testament to the human capacity to create beauty in a void.

Victoria Peak, Hong Kong

Drink the Night Away

It’s probably fair to say that most people don’t think of Hong Kong as a party destination but there are still a plethora of options for a night on the town. If it’s a touch of glamour you’re looking for then head to OZONE in West Kowloon to sip cocktails in one of the world’s highest rooftop bars. If you prefer to take to the streets then head for Lan Kwai Fong, the central party zone where street performers and local celebrities mix it with workers end expats across more than a hundred bars and restaurants. It’s hot, crowded and intensely memorable (provided you don’t overdo the cocktails).

For a more detailed rundown on Hong Kong’s best bars, click here.

Get Active

For such a densely, urban environment, Hong Kong still offers plenty of outdoor activities to help you keep fit. Hiking in the mountainous regions around the city is always a popular pastime and Hong Kong has loads of routes to choose from. One of the favorites is the Dragon’s Back Hike, a walk that transports you from city to beach with plenty of stunning coastal views along the way. Alternatively, there are plenty of spots to try sea kayaking, stretch it out with some yoga, or simply grab your sports gear and head down to Victoria Park on Hong Kong Island to burn off last night’s beers.

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Buy Things

Whether you’re looking for electronics, flowers, or knock-off designer clothes, chances are you’ll find it in one of Hong Kong’s many markets. The opportunity to hunt for cheap antiques and quirky Chinese art on Cat Street is an opportunity that shouldn’t be missed, nor is the Temple Street Night Market.

Hong Kong Temple Street

If you’re more about those global brands then the area near Causeway Bay has what you need, or for some really high-end baubles, the IFC Mall is your best bet. Even if your budget only extends to window shopping, there are many reasonably priced restaurants inside the IFC where you can great views over the harbor without breaking the bank.

Take a trip

If big cities wear you out then perhaps you’ll be glad to know that the pristine natural paradise that is Lantau Island is only a short metro ride away. Lantau’s crowning glory is the Tian Tan Buddha, the world’s largest seated buddha, that towers above Ngong Ping village.

Tian Tan Buddha, Hong Kong

After taking a glass-bottomed cable car to the buddha, take time to amble around the tranquil halls of nearby Po Lin Monastery before taking a short bus ride to Tai O fishing village. Walk the laid-back streets, sample the local seafood and marvel at the cuttlefish, pufferfish, and entire sharks that hang from the street vendors’ walls. Take a boat tour around the harbor to get views of the houses suspended on stilts and – if you’re really lucky – spot the elusive pink Chinese Dolphins that sometimes fish these waters. Be aware, though, a lot of boat tours advertise as if spotting dolphins is all but guaranteed. It’s really not.

If you have the time to explore a bit further afield then jump on a ferry to Macau for around 20 USD per person. Visitors flock to this former Portuguese colony to wonder at the Ruins of St. Paul’s—a striking 17th Century church façade that is now a UNESCO world heritage site—as well sample the local delicacy of Portuguese egg tart.

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Treat the kids

Children—they may be funny, full of energy and enrich your life, but man are they philistines. If you’re the generous sort who wants to give your sprogs a break from 17th Century façades then Disneyland Hong Kong or Ocean Park could be a safe bet. Prices start at around 80 USD per person for a single-day ticket to Disneyland, and around 50 USD per person for Ocean Park.

Hong Kong Disneyland

So, there’s our guide to Hong Kong. In a way I think of this city as a sort of cultural equivalent of the Himalayan mountains: a crumple zone where two enormous land masses—in this case, East and West—collide, forming something spectacular in between.

There’s a lot to do, a lot to see, and a lot to learn. If it feels like you’re moving at a million miles an hour then don’t worry, it just means you’re doing it right.

Suggested next reading: 9 Gorgeous Locations In China That Will Take Your Breath Away

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9 Gorgeous Locations In China That Will Take Your Breath Away (Part 2) https://moderntrekker.com/most-beautiful-places-in-china/ https://moderntrekker.com/most-beautiful-places-in-china/#respond Wed, 18 Jul 2018 07:00:00 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=2777 Here we continue sharing 9 of the most beautiful places…

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Here we continue sharing 9 of the most beautiful places in China! To start from the beginning in part 1, click here.

5. Hua Shan

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When planning your first visit to China it’s almost certain you’ll want to make a stop at Xi’an. The former capital of China, this city is world-famous for its cultural delights and ancient history, including, of course, the Terracotta Warriors.

Terracotta Army

However, Xi’an has one spot that nature lovers won’t want to miss: Mount Hua Shan. Comprised of five peaks, this mountain range, around 75 miles from the city, is well connected to the city center by a number of high-speed train services. Once there, your options for hiking are abundant. Many climbers head to the highest spot, the South Peak, for dramatic views over verdant valleys and towards the Yellow River.

Hardy souls will want to head to the “Plank Walk in the Sky”, a rickety wooden bridge that’s bolted to the cliff-face 7000 feet above the valley below. Rumors circulate of hundreds of hikers plummeting from this spot each year, giving the spot its grisly nickname of the “Death Walk”. This, however, has not been confirmed and, given the safety measures in place, it’s highly unlikely to be true. One thing is for certain, though, it’s not for the faint of heart!

6. Sanya

If the thought of Hua Shan makes your head spin then fear not, our next entry offers a far more peaceful experience. This small and relatively undiscovered resort town offers a number of gorgeous beaches with a coastline on the South China Sea. One of the most popular, Yalong Bay, is a short ride away on the island of Hainan and offers broad, flat beaches perfect for soaking up the sun. Longtou Peak is a prime spot to gain views over the bay whilst neighboring Tropical Paradise Park gives ample opportunity to see rare birds and butterflies.

If you’re able to travel a little further afield then be sure to check out nearby Wuzhizhou Island. With white, sandy beaches, and warm tropical waters where coral supports a rich diversity of marine life, you’ll think you’re in the Caribbean rather than China. Many miles from the busy streets of Beijing—both literally and metaphorically—the Sanya area is a perfect spot to unwind after a hectic backpacking journey through everything China has to offer.

A post shared by Ruyao (@belovedyao) on

For more photos of this beautiful area, as well as travel advice, visit China Tours.

7. Tibet

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At the opening of this article, I wrote that China can be logistically difficult to visit but ultimately rewards all your efforts. Nowhere is this more in evidence than Tibet. The political situation in Tibet has been discussed widely across the world over the decades since the Cultural Revolution, so I won’t presume to try and add to it here. What it means for us, though, is that independent travel is made a whole lot more complicated.

In fact, it isn’t complicated, it’s impossible.

And expensive.

As of 2009, all visitors to the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR) must make arrangements through an approved tour operator and be accompanied by a licensed Chinese tour guide. And then there’s the bureaucracy: paperwork, permits and passport checks become your new reality.

However, if you are lucky (and determined) enough to make it to the roof of the world, you’ll be rewarded with some of the most jaw-dropping scenery on this planet. As you approach Mount Kailash, you can’t help but wonder how few people have laid eyes on this scared spot over the years, and how you became one of them.

The whole of Tibet is so magical, you’ll feel like you’re walking through a dream.

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Planning a trip to Tibet? Be preepaaaared!

8. Tiger Leaping Gorge

One of the world’s most spectacular river canyons, Tiger Leaping Gorge is also the world’s deepest, and best-named (sorry Cheddar). The name comes from a narrow point in the valley where, according to legend, a tiger is said to have made a daring leap across the Jinsha River.

Hikers can choose between a high trail and a low road. The higher trail is more interesting and varied, though does present some challenges, even for experienced hikers. The low road has been paved and is, therefore, more accessible to those who prefer a more gentle trek. It provides a chance for walkers to get closer to the river and a greater sense of being wrapped up in the mountains, but is a less exciting experience on the whole.

The trail is typically walked in 2-3 days, often with stops at guesthouses along the way. Most of these guesthouses are owned by members of the Naxi people, an ethnic group with Tibetan roots and a distinct culture who occupy parts of Yunnan province in far South-Western China. Another welcome opportunity to meet local people in the fabulous landscapes they call home.

9. Huangshan

Truly one of the most beautiful places in China, the Huangshan, or Yellow Mountains, are held in the same reverence in the Chinese public imagination as Mount Fuji is in Japan, or the Grand Canyon is in the USA. There is a beauty in this environment that, for many, elevates it beyond the worldly plane and towards something sacred. As you gaze up at those stoic peaks, poking through the affectionately named “sea of clouds”, it’s easy to see why Huangshan is said to have inspired over 20,000 poems and even has a school of painting named after it. There is a majesty to this place that is both timeless and universal, and yet somehow quintessentially Chinese.

The city of Huangshan—sometimes known by its old name Tunxi—is well set-up to cater to visitors looking to explore the mountains. However, if you’re heading to this part of China, combining your stay with a trip to the scenic town of Hangzhou comes highly recommended.

Accommodation, food and transport are all extremely cheap in China, but this won’t last forever. Many experts predict that China will be the world’s most popular travel destination by 2020, and prices are likely to increase as a result. So if you’ve ever harbored a desire to see this enchanting country, now’s the time to go!

Suggested next reading: 6 Unique, Once-In-A-Lifetime Experiences On The Road From Tokyo To Kansai

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9 Gorgeous Locations In China That Will Take Your Breath Away (Part 1) https://moderntrekker.com/most-beautiful-places-of-china/ https://moderntrekker.com/most-beautiful-places-of-china/#comments Tue, 17 Jul 2018 07:00:54 +0000 https://moderntrekker.com/?p=2772 Once almost entirely closed to international tourism, China is now…

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Once almost entirely closed to international tourism, China is now the fourth most-visited country in the world. Most visitors travel from neighboring countries like Taiwan and South Korea, meaning the annual number of visitors from European and American countries remains relatively low.

This is perhaps unsurprising. Having spent 5 weeks backpacking around China I have witnessed first-hand some of the challenges it still presents. The complicated visa process, underdeveloped infrastructure (especially outside major cities) and restricted internet services certainly make independent travel a little taxing.

I also came to realize that every frustration is ultimately worth it. China is infinitely compelling and constantly changing. In fact, there’s so much to discover in this vast country that it’s difficult to know where to start.

If, like me, you want to get a taste of the most beautiful places of China and see some rural natural scenery, then these 9 places certainly won’t disappoint. Chances are, though, that even if you manage all 9, you’ll be drawn back time again and again.

1. Guilin and Yangshuo

In the heart of Guangxi Province, far from China’s booming megacities, is a magical landscape that will transport you to a bygone era.

Guilin, China

Guilin city is the ideal base for exploring the region. Take time to sample the beer-cooked catfish, a local delicacy, as you wander through the lively, low-rise streets towards the unusual “Elephant Trunk Hill” and the beautiful Sun and Moon Pagoda, both a short walk from the city center. The dazzling underground caverns at Seven Star Park and Reed Flute Cave (below) are essentials, as is a trip to the Longji Rice Paddies.

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Once you’ve exhausted everything Guilin has to offer, take a boat ride down the lazy Li River to Yangshuo. Locals here use cormorants to help fish these waters, and as you wind your way through this ageless landscape you’re sure to feel a connection with the romantic imagery of China’s past.

Once in Yangshuo, head away from the town center and get a hotel room in the scenic area. Here you will be able to unwind in striking surroundings, learn to cook local food, explore on bicycle or hike up the unusual Moon Hill for some panoramic views of the area.

2. Jiuzhaigou

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This national park in Sichuan Province is a photographers’ paradise. Emerald lakes, cascading waterfalls, thick primeval forests and jagged peaks combine to create some of the most unforgettable scenery this vast country has to offer. Situated at the edge of the Tibetan plateau, this remote area remained undiscovered by the Chinese government until 1972 and was proclaimed a national park a decade later. A number of villages within the park preserve unique Tibetan heritage and customs that feel like a world apart in modern China, offering you the chance to interact with 1,000 local people who still call this wild landscape home.

Arguably the focal point of the park is the gorgeous “Five Flower Lake”. Water streams down from the mountains to create a lake that is both vivid turquoise and crystal-clear, providing views to the very bottom, where ancient trees lie in rest. A perfect spot for meditation and relaxation, or to take a photograph that will be the envy of all your friends.

Because Jiuzhaigou is so remote, access can be a little tricky. The most common method is to fly from Xi’an or Chengdu, but long-distance bus routes are available, too. More information on how to plan your trip can be found here

3. Zhangye Danxia National Park

If you’re the kind of person who finds Jiuzhaigou a bit too touristy and wants to get even further off the beaten path, why not head to Zhangye in the far North of China? Often colloquially known as the Rainbow Mountains, the psychedelic ripples of color in this otherwise rusty landscape make it look a bit like Mars, if it got really into prog-rock.

The landforms, created by the folding and layering of sandstone over millions of years, really come alive during dawn and dusk, when shifting shadows really bring out the drama of the landscape.

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Your best bet for accessing the park is to fly—usually from Xi’an—to the city of Zhangye, a remote desert town roughly 19 miles away from the park. Despite its isolation, Zhangye was an important stop on the former Silk Road, so is rich in history. Whilst here, take time to explore the Giant Buddha Temple or take a 90-minute excursion to the fabulous Mati Temple Grotto, a place of worship carved half-way up a sheer rock face.

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Visit Travel China for more information on planning your trip to Zhangye National Park.

4. Zhangjiajie

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The 3,000 stone pillars at Zhangjiajie, China’s first national park, have long been favorite spot for Chinese nature-lovers. However, after serving as the inspiration for the Hallelujah Mountains in the film Avatar, this awesome landscape has been imprinted more firmly into the global consciousness. To help cater for the growing tourist demand the Chinese government opened a glass bridge—the world’s highest and longest—across the canyon in 2016.

Whilst it’s perhaps a shame to have man-made structures like this and the Baoling Elevator—the world’s tallest outdoor lift—in such a pristine natural environment, it has made accessing some of the most scenic spots easier for people who may not otherwise have the chance. Luckily the park is big enough and spectacular enough from all angles that you shouldn’t have any problems finding quiet corners in which to frame your perfect photo…or to play a fiddle?

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Access is usually by flight from most major cities. The towns surrounding the park are still quite small and peaceful, so hotel space can be at a premium. Make sure to book your hotel early, especially if traveling during Chinese national holidays.

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